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My stock transfer case went on my 96 250 the other day in the local mudd pit.The stock transfer case is a borg warner 13-56 2 speed manual shift.Now im pretty sure there is an older ford that had a better transer case that would last longer and bolt right up but I forgot what year truck it's off anyone?isnt there a gear driven transefer case off an early or mid 70s ford pickup that would bolt right in?or am I wrong???
I dont think it will bolt up, but if you can make a np205 work, you would be set. They are tough and plentiful.
I would stay with the current Tcase they have a deeper low range and are fairly durable if maintained and geared properly. I have used a few BW Tcases snow plowing for many years and never had 2 cents of trouble with them. Usually when these cases give up it is because they are not maintained or they are being over stressed with big tires and tall axle ratios which strains Tcase beyond design limits. Big tires and tall gear can be very hard on Tcases and drive shafts.
what broke on it?? bw1345/56 cases are pretty durable compared to NP208s. The only thing that really breaks on them are due to wear. (ie, the tcase pump will grind through the case and spin, causing a no-lube situation, the planetaries wear out too).
With that said, the weaker NP208 can put up with a lot of abuse (fishmann snapped one with a big block and 39s while pulling [hard] on a stuck truck, I tried breakin mine, no lube, spinning 3 tires on asphalt in low range/low gear hooked to a heavy log, still runs).
I'd probably rebuilt another 1356 myself. if you plan to upgrade to bigger trucks and more horses (over 400), then I'd probably step upto an NP205.
I knew a guy that had his NP205 rebuilt had a guy forge some new gears out of some Ti and some Carbon composit. Stronger then steel by 4 times. Could be done with any transfer case really.
I do have big tires and a lift sorry i forgot to say that.right now i got 40" ground hawgs and about 12" of lift on this truck.ok so the best thing is to rebuild it and mke it stronger then?im not sure what broke when i take my foot off the gas it makes a grinding sound it only does it when i have the hubs locked and the truck in 4h or 4 l,when i put everything back in 2 wheel its fine.my hubs are new warn hubs so i know its not them.heck if i know what broke in it i never took one apart before but id love to learn how to rebuild one.all i know is the grinding sound is so loud when i let off the gas i have to fix it or get another one.im gussing its the pump or the chain.
I'd check your outers / hubs. I'm not sure if you are running TTB or a Dana 60. If it was the tcase, it would be making noise whether you had your hubs locked in or not. with 40s, you be breaking hubs, 19, or 30 spline inner before you break your tcase.
I do have big tires and a lift sorry i forgot to say that.right now i got 40" ground hawgs and about 12" of lift on this truck.ok so the best thing is to rebuild it and mke it stronger then?im not sure what broke when i take my foot off the gas it makes a grinding sound it only does it when i have the hubs locked and the truck in 4h or 4 l,when i put everything back in 2 wheel its fine.my hubs are new warn hubs so i know its not them.heck if i know what broke in it i never took one apart before but id love to learn how to rebuild one.all i know is the grinding sound is so loud when i let off the gas i have to fix it or get another one.im gussing its the pump or the chain.
Install some 5.13's or 5.38's or so in axle gears and you will likely not have any more Tcase problems. People seldom properly consider the additonal torque loading on drive line and Tcase with big tires and tall axle ratios as it is not as transparent as some think. Even 5.38's are not really deep with 40's and are equal to about a 4.10's with 30's which is a good combo for serious offroad running power wise.
If its grinding only in 4wd then Im with Bremen check your hubs make sure those are sound. The T case should make that noise no matter waht if something in there broke.
The 205s will bolt up but you will have to cut a V groove in the trans flange for the rail. Never personally done it but I've seen it bolted up. I have a 205 in case my 1356 does the same thing.
omg snoblower, we know that youve used your trucks for plowing for 500 years, who cares, were not dealing with shock loads, and big tires. id say that you should be ok rebuilding the current case. i know my 1356 started grinding when one of the shift forks wore out and didnt lock the shift collar together.
a ford 205 will bolt in place of any other for tc from the early 70's (whenever they started using the 32spline tc shafts, and with the above mention grinding) up to 96 in the 1/2ton and 98 in the 3/4-1ton truck. The only thing you have to be sure of is that the 205 you pick to do it came from a tranny with the longer tc to tranny adapter (its around 7" or so), and this is to ensure the shaft that runs in the adapter has enough engagment on the tc to avoid destroying something. I know this because we went through an ordeal when swaping a 205 in place of a 208 in my mudder, but we ended up swapping the tranny too as it was in unusable shape as well.
If you decide to rebuild your 13-56 (one other disadvanatage compared to the 205 is the case strenght in my oponion) you can modify the shifter so that you don't have to push down on it in order to engage 4low, i'll try to snap a picture over the weekend of what someone did to a zf/1356 combo we're puttin into a farm truck to get rid of this method of shifting, as gravel/dirt/mud tends to get in there and prevents 4low from engaging.
I have herd of a 205 not being that good in a high horsepower application due to it having helical cut gears and all the power tries to force the case apart causing faliar.I dunno i have been running a 208 for ever now.I will do a 203/205 doubler when i get a chance but not in a hurry.