Hey is anyone out there using the Super runner steering system from SuperLift? What do you think of it? Is there any way of installing it onto an unlifted Bronco? Why or why not?

 

cant see why you couldnt use it unlifted as long as the drop of the idler(? not sure of terminology) and the pit man arm were the same basic set up just changes the drop y to a sort of k basically it makes the system symetrical arms are equal length ect

 

The idler arm needs the mounting point in the passenger side axle drop bracket (mounting for the driver's half of the axle assembly) that Superlift provides with their kits. There is no place to mount the idler arm in the frame of the Bronco that will not interfere the the movement of the passenger half of the axle assembly. The idler arm has only enough drop designed into it to accomodate its use in conjunction with the drop bracket. The linkages are also designed to work with the additional length needed to keep the proper steering geometry needed in a lifted truck. Even a discrepancy of a few fractions of an inch can mean the difference between a proper alignment and a front end that eats tires. Thats why it won't work in an unlifted truck.

It may not be necessary to use Superlift's complete lift kit. I am still researching the possibility of just using their drop bracket with some other lift or drilling the appropriate hole in another drop bracket myself.

 

Awesome, Thanks Greystreak!

 

I'm not a big fan of the superrunner steering kit, but I understand why people use it. I have to ask though... Why would you want to use it on a stock height Bronco?

 

I want to make it more streetable, and later on down the road i do plan on lifting it.

 

when i had my 86 bronco ,i used the superrunner steering system with my skyjacker system

 

I'm not following you. Your stock Bronco is not streetable?

If it's not, I would look for worn steering/suspension parts and/or worn shocks.

 

I am replacing all worn steering components. Having to navigate a FSB through traffic in Southern California is no easy task. Poor road quality makes the thing bounce all around. I've replaced every bushing under the truck with heavy duty poly ones, I have a new power steering pump, and dual Rancho steering stabilizers. I'm waiting for my new steering components to arrive from broncograveyard, including draglink,tie rods, connecting sleeves. I'm also replacing the rag joint and eventualy the steering gearbox. And of course when i'm done i'll go get it aligned.

 

In "hard-over" steering maneuvers even a non-lifted Bronco experiences a good deal of "bump steer" Because the linkage pivot points are out of sync with the axle pivot points, one wheel has a tendency to kick out as the truck moves along. The Superunner setup brings the steering linkage into better alignment with the axle assembly which helps significantly reduce the amount of bump steer associated with the OME steering linkage.

I personally would already have the Superunner setup if I didn't need the lift first. Its just been too freakin' cold to get into that project right now.

 

I wonder what swapping the tie rod ends to on top of the spindle instead of underneath it at stock hieght would do.

 

Massey, replacing all the parts you've listed and getting the alignment set (properly) will probably make a huge difference in the way the truck handles. Install a GOOD set of shocks on top of all that and it'll be a whole new truck. And, you'll be able to toss your stabilizers in the trash.

greystreak, It is true beamed fords have a lot of bump steer (on the driver side beam), but you have to remember two things. One, Massey's truck is stock height and two, when these trucks were new, they did not wander all over the road. If they had, Ford wouldn't have sold millions. Typically Ford trucks that have a wandering problem have an alignment issue at minimum and usually worn parts and/or tires.

Bumpsteer on beamed Ford trucks isn't a big of an issue unless there is a large lift involved that does not have proper steering geometry or suspension travel is increased (without proper geometry). The problem with big lifts (over 4") is that there is not a dropped pitman arm made that can match the lift brackets. So, when it's all together, the brackets have been dropped lets say 6" and the steering has only been dropped 4". The radius arm pivots, axle housing pivots and pitman arm are no longer on the same plane. Keeping them on the same plane is one of the ways Ford was able to make these things go down the road straight.

Even with big wheel travel numbers, all that bumpsteer the driver side wheel experiences is very manageable when the suspension is designed correctly (keeping all the pivot points on the same plane).
My Bronco has a 4" lift, extended radius arms, 16" of wheel travel and still uses the stock steering with no steering stabilizer. I'd be willing to bet it handles and steers better (on or off-road) than most broncos on the road today.

Another thing to consider: With the stock steering, the geometry for the passenger side wheel is actually very good and has no noticable bumpsteer. The driver side wheel is the one that bumpsteers. The correct way to fix this would be this type of steering system.



Although it's somewhat hidden by the bumper and skidplate frame work, you can see in the pic that both tie rod lengths are very close to the length of the beams.

In a perfect scenario, the tie rod pivot points would not only be on the same plane, all the pivot points on a corresponding side would intersect the same line. For example, if your steering and suspension geometry was as close to perfect as possible, you would be able to draw a straight line that would go through the center of the radius arm pivot, the corresponding beam/axle pivot and the corresponding tie rod pivot. This however would require even more custom work than the expensive steering kit seen in the pic.

This explains my problem with the superrunner steering system. While it may fix the problem of not dropping the steering enough, it creates another. Because with the kit both tie rods are the same length, the passenger beam that had good geometry now has too short of a tie rod like the driver side. And to top it off, the drivers beam steering geometry is still off.

Sorry for the long post, I hope it all made sense.

 

No, thats some good stuff. I think that another contributing factor may be that must people with stock suspension are running 31's instead of 28's the truck came with. I like the TTB suspension, but it wanders a lot just driving over a flat grass field. I've got decsent shocks (6 new rough country's) and eventualy i'll probably trade them out one pair at a time for rancho 9000's because I really prefer a more firm ride.

 

Massey, when I first got my Bronco I put 33x12.50x15's on it with the suspension completely stock and with the original shocks and it steered and handled great. As long as there aren't any worn parts and the alignment is good, it should steer fine.

Also, I hate to have to tell you this, but rough country and rancho shocks are not what I would consider good. Step up to a Bilstein 5100 or a KYB and you'll never go back to a cheapo shock again.

 

So what exactly are you suggesting steveg3? With the exeption of the shocks (my mind is set on the Rancho 9000's) I've done everything else.

All new bushings (including sway bar, radius arms, axle pivot)

New shocks (6) (old ones were shot so I got the Rough Countrys because they are descent.

New power steering pump.

Awaiting arrival of all new steering components form JBG

Trying to locate heavy-duty rag joint.

Dual Rancho Steering stabilizers (for the ruts, they made a BIG difference when i first put them on)

Got manual hubs so thats not any type of factor