4x4 Broke
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
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4x4 Broke
Hey.
I think I experienced allknown Dana 28 weakness.
Today, I was "playing" in the leftovers from snowshtorm we got here. Got my rear end deeply on the big snow pile, and the car got stuck on top of it. The fron wheels were on tarmac. So, I put it in low and 4x4, try to get out, but no reaction it didn't pull. There was one weird like "snap" noise though. So, another car pulled me out, and i decided to try if my 4x4 is working. It appears that it is not. The 4x4 low engages but no 4x4.
Is this a popular problem? What is most likely the cause? And the main one, what is most likely the FIX?
Thanks you very much,
Klim
I think I experienced allknown Dana 28 weakness.
Today, I was "playing" in the leftovers from snowshtorm we got here. Got my rear end deeply on the big snow pile, and the car got stuck on top of it. The fron wheels were on tarmac. So, I put it in low and 4x4, try to get out, but no reaction it didn't pull. There was one weird like "snap" noise though. So, another car pulled me out, and i decided to try if my 4x4 is working. It appears that it is not. The 4x4 low engages but no 4x4.
Is this a popular problem? What is most likely the cause? And the main one, what is most likely the FIX?
Thanks you very much,
Klim
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 380
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if your sure the 4x4 low engages then it will most likey be a problem with ethier the hubs, axle or driveshaft. From the snap sound id go and check the driveshaft first, then see if the axle is shot, then go to the hubs.
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Thanks a lot for the answer.
Tomorrow I will lift one front wheel, turn it and see what turns what not.
I was just more interested what is considered the weakes part of Bronco II 4x4(early ones)
Thanks again,
Klim
Tomorrow I will lift one front wheel, turn it and see what turns what not.
I was just more interested what is considered the weakes part of Bronco II 4x4(early ones)
Thanks again,
Klim
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Joined: Apr 2003
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The Dana 28 is not weak. What you did was childs play compared to what I have seen them subjected to, and I have been running around with mine for a month using only front wheel drive, waiting for my new rear drive shaft to arrive. You probably blew a hub. If you have manual hubs lock them, jack up each wheel and give one a spin by hand. It should turn its axle shaft and the other wheel if both are locked in and working. Drive shafts are pretty tough, and the diff is tough too. If you are running stock size tires, it was probably the hubs, especially if they are the automatic type. Good luck.
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Thanks for the answer.
I checked it and when I put it into 4x4, the left half shaft is spinning, but the wheel is not. So it is the left wheel hub. I had ford original manually locking hubs.
Is there any advice on which are the best "bang for the buck" hubs?
Thanks,
Klim
I checked it and when I put it into 4x4, the left half shaft is spinning, but the wheel is not. So it is the left wheel hub. I had ford original manually locking hubs.
Is there any advice on which are the best "bang for the buck" hubs?
Thanks,
Klim
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WARN is the consensus favorite. I have heard that www.desertrat.com has em, but I havn't ordered any before. The OEM hubs are WARN re badged as Ford. I think Autozone sells Mile Marker, but some of the wheelers on the board have busted them easily. Maybe some else will chime in.
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
http://www.truckperformance.com ... as well as many reputable auto parts stores (wait, is schuck's -REPUTABLE- ?? haha) carry the Warn and/or MileMarker replacements. You can also get *gasp* automatic hub conversion kits, etc. too.
I've actually had my rear driveshaft out to check it for any damage and ran around the neighborhood in "front-wheel-drive" mode. My only problem with that was that one or two (or more?) of the u-joints in the half-shafts aren't working very freely... or something... usually in 4wd when I turn quickly and sharply enough, the steering wheel bounces me all over the seat from going side-to-side. I'm sure most of that problem will be fixed when I get around to doing a SAS.
I've actually had my rear driveshaft out to check it for any damage and ran around the neighborhood in "front-wheel-drive" mode. My only problem with that was that one or two (or more?) of the u-joints in the half-shafts aren't working very freely... or something... usually in 4wd when I turn quickly and sharply enough, the steering wheel bounces me all over the seat from going side-to-side. I'm sure most of that problem will be fixed when I get around to doing a SAS.
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Thanks.
I saw on EBay the hubs. WARN is 170$, MileMarker is 120$. Is there a lot of people who broke their MileMakers?
I can't believe that the originals are WARNs. The pink plastic caps, and the soft material hub body(which gets bent if you hit it with a hummer...). Maybe there were different editions?
Thanks,
klim
I saw on EBay the hubs. WARN is 170$, MileMarker is 120$. Is there a lot of people who broke their MileMakers?
I can't believe that the originals are WARNs. The pink plastic caps, and the soft material hub body(which gets bent if you hit it with a hummer...). Maybe there were different editions?
Thanks,
klim
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Dont worry about the roughness in turning sharply in 4wd. My dads 03 ranger dose that too, the 4wd on these truck are not supposed to act as smooth as a front wheel drive car would. This roughness effect occurs mainly if you turn sharply on dry, or even slighty wet pavement. my dad was making a u-turn in a road and forgot to turn off the 4wd off and it was bouncing around. even in the manual it sez that the 4wd is NOT to be used on dry pavement or damage may occur. most likey from turning
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Well, as far as I know the bouncing around in 4x4 is caused becouse the middle diff is strictly 50/50 split(locked). But the front and the rear wheels in especially tight turns go different distances. It is almost the same like having different gear ratios in the axles. If you are on a slippery suface it is ok becouse the wheels can slip. But on the tarmac, you can mess your front diff up if you do that. That's where bouncing around comes from in 4x4. But in front wheel drive there SHOULDN'T be any bouncing around, becouse the fron diff is regular diff(if it is not a locker offcourse), and allowes different wheel speeds. And becouse there is no connection to the rear wheels, there shouldn't be a problem with the middle diff. So, it looks like you have a problem.
Now, any extra input on what is better as bang for the buck value, Mile Maker or WARN?
Thanks a lot,
Klim
Now, any extra input on what is better as bang for the buck value, Mile Maker or WARN?
Thanks a lot,
Klim
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Originally Posted by mulik51
Thanks.
I saw on EBay the hubs. WARN is 170$, MileMarker is 120$. Is there a lot of people who broke their MileMakers?
I can't believe that the originals are WARNs. The pink plastic caps, and the soft material hub body(which gets bent if you hit it with a hummer...). Maybe there were different editions?
Thanks,
klim
I saw on EBay the hubs. WARN is 170$, MileMarker is 120$. Is there a lot of people who broke their MileMakers?
I can't believe that the originals are WARNs. The pink plastic caps, and the soft material hub body(which gets bent if you hit it with a hummer...). Maybe there were different editions?
Thanks,
klim
And as far as bang-for-buck, I'd personally spend the extra $$$ on the Warn replacements.