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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

one wire alternator setup.

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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 06:39 PM
  #1  
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one wire alternator setup.

hey fellas!
I switched out my alternator, and got a unit that is "one wire capable" with an internal regulator. two Questions:

1) Does the internal regulator mean I can get rid of my voltage regulator?

2) How do i set up the one wire style alternator? (wiring)

Thanks guys!

Rich

P.S. I would go into how this is a silly question and all that, but you guys already know, Yeah... Im still new.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Check out this site...it should give you the resources you'll need, look under the classic truck project section. "what is a one wire alternator," Should help you out follow this link. www.classictruck.com Also converting 6 volt to 12 volt. Both are under the tech articles. Oh, and yest you can get rid of your VReg.
 

Last edited by low54; Feb 17, 2006 at 08:30 PM. Reason: mis spelling
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 06:15 AM
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uh, did I miss something?

Is this question such a no brainer that everyone thought I was joking when I posted it, or is this actually something only those in the 98th percentile can explain?

hmmm,

Rich....
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 06:28 AM
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People thought you were joking.

The single alternator wire can get hooked up to the battery and you can remove the old voltage regulator. That is probably the best place to hook it up since you are not familiar with electronics. Also don't forget to get a large enough gage wire for the maximum your alternator is rated at.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 55forder
hey fellas!
I switched out my alternator, and got a unit that is "one wire capable" with an internal regulator. two Questions:

1) Does the internal regulator mean I can get rid of my voltage regulator?

2) How do i set up the one wire style alternator? (wiring)

Thanks guys!

Rich

P.S. I would go into how this is a silly question and all that, but you guys already know, Yeah... Im still new.
Rich,

One wire means one wire. Run the one wire from the BAT terminal on the alternator to the positive side of the battery and that's it. At good place to tie it in is on the starter or starter switch. Use an 4-6 gauge wire if the alternator is 100 amps or so and about 10 gauge if it's around 40-60 amps. Remember that the voltmeter/ammeter will not show a charge until you bring the RPMs up a little. If it's a 100 amp DON't use an ammeter.

Vern
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 08:46 AM
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On my F800 I left the origional regulater in place, remove the field and amature
wire, then run one heavy gauge wire from the alt. to the battery terminal on the
regulator. This way the charge circut stays origional, and runs throught the amp
gauge on the dash, no hack job no aditional wiring, on a 56. on 6 vt positive ground
trucks you will have to string the wire through the amp gauge backwoods so it
will read charge (neg grd. 12vts) One wire jobs are great but im already having
a problem with a Ford 750 backhoe that I put one in. One month old now I have
to rev it pretty much then it will charge. I think ill bring it back. good luck!!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Rich, Hope I didn't offend, the Classic trucks site really educated me on the whole alternator set up...Plus the guys on this site. When I went to the auto stor and asked for a single wire alternator, the guy behind the counter said, and I quote, "there's no such thing." I said yes there is. He wanted to keep telling me that I was WACKED! But alas I went on the classic truck site and got my own info...When I get mine set up...I can't wait to drive up to that store and "educate," the guy!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by low54
When I went to the auto store and asked for a single wire alternator, the guy behind the counter said, and I quote, "there's no such thing." I said yes there is. He wanted to keep telling me that I was WACKED! But alas I went on the classic truck site and got my own info...When I get mine set up...I can't wait to drive up to that store and "educate," the guy!
just remember, those guys are parts matchers and replacers. They don't do custom anything. One wire alternators are not listed on their system like that, so you would have to talk to them in their language, year, make, model.

Sam
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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You must be talking about auto zoned
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by low54
Check out this site...it should give you the resources you'll need, look under the classic truck project section. "what is a one wire alternator," Should help you out follow this link. www.classictruck.com Also converting 6 volt to 12 volt. Both are under the tech articles. Oh, and yest you can get rid of your VReg.
No offense at all.

I was just trying to actually find a link to any kind of website that had anything to do with an alternator setup.

Haha, and I actually did end up finding the right one, doing a google search. Thanks for the help guys. With a little reading about how the one wire works, I figured it out. Just needed a little brushing up, its been a while.

Rich
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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What I have learned...

There are TWO types of 1 wire alternaters: One truly is a "one wire",but it has to reach a given RPM before the fields are excited then it will charge.If you run a "power pulley" or other pulleys that reduce the RPM of your water pump,alt. etc. then your engine has to reach a higher RPM before the ALT. kicks in. The other style actually has two wires that that have to be hooked up.A heavy wire to the battery to charge,the other small wire hooks to any switched power source so when you turn on the ignition the wire excites the fields and the ALT. starts charging as soon as your engine is running.I learned ths from a couple of up grades and am currently running the police style high out put alternater for a mustang on my FE.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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Auto Zoned is right...The GM one wire alternator was what I'm looking at upgrading to from the 6 volt Generator issue. That one's for sure the "one wire." Just have to fabricate some brackets and use reducers on the approperiate stuff Headlites, heater and wiper motor unless its changed out to 12V. Yeah I ran into the "Year, make model, please."
 
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 05:35 AM
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Rich,

I did mine as a "3-wire": The Bat terminal back to the solenoid B+, the alternator body (ground) back to the battery B- (probably overkill since the motor ground goes to the same place), and existing wire going back to the old regulator armature and charge light on the dash. There's a diagram of how I did it in my gallery. Hope this helps.

John
 
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 06:45 AM
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Try this

This always works when in Auto Zoned or I call it the chrome shop.
I deal mostly with these vehicles. Make & model and year. These kids
havent a clue what a Flxible is, never the less a 337 in a F8. I put a one
wire 100 Delco on my 54 Visicoach I resorted to" its for a D8 Cat Dozer,"
that put his brakes on, and simply headed for the shelf and read the
label on the box . done deal !!!!!
 
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 07:14 AM
  #15  
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From: Grain Valley Mo.
Originally Posted by John Boyd
Rich,

I did mine as a "3-wire": The Bat terminal back to the solenoid B+, the alternator body (ground) back to the battery B- (probably overkill since the motor ground goes to the same place), and existing wire going back to the old regulator armature and charge light on the dash. There's a diagram of how I did it in my gallery. Hope this helps.

John
________________________
I also grounded the body of alt. to the frame. Theres no such thing as overkill when it come to grounds. JMO
 
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