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Several days ago I posted about the rough running and on and off again smoking that I was experiencing with my truck, and how I later found no compression on the #1 cylinder when I did a compression check. I was about ready to pull that engine and put in another one, but I've decided to try and fix the problem. I was given a little hope by a couple on the board here and I've had a couple of acquaintances tell me that I should try to fix it also. Both of these people seem to think that it is more than likely a stuck valve or maybe a broken valve spring or keeper and that it would be pretty straight forward to go in and take the head off and have it repaired and replace it. One of them said that it was possible, depending on what was broken, that I might be able to repair it without removing the head. So, with that, I'm about to dig into this thing and try to get er done. I'll admit, I'm more than a little intimidated with all of the wires, plumbing, electricals, etc., but I'm going to take my time and label every thing and take lots of pictures. I've got a long weekend coming up and a young boy that's in highschool that I know to help me out. He's trying to earn a few extra bucks and he also has LONG arms . Without a doubt I'm going to have to come back here frequently and ask questions so I would appreciate it if you would bear with me and help me out if you can. I'm starting tomorrow afternoon and will post back daily with my progress and questions. Thanks guys. The Teardown Begins.
remove the spark plug from that cylinder, put a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft and stick your finger in the spark plug hole. Have someone like that high school boy slowly rotate the engine with the breaker bar until you feel the piston come up as far as it will. Do it by touch and feel is how I would quickly and easily do it.
Ummmm - OK - what they say is true. However, if the book wants it at TDC on the compression stroke then you have to look at the rotor and make sure that it is pointing directly at the #1 plug wire. Otherwise you will be 180 degrees out and at TDC on the exhaust stroke and NOT what you want.
Take it cool and post back as often as you need to.
Well, I got everything tore down. Wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I took a lot of pictures and notes. Labeled everything as I took it off. Got the head off and it turned out to be a burnt valve. I've got the head at the machine shop now getting the valve replaced and dressing up the seat. I was tempted to go ahead and do a complete valve job on both heads while I had everything down, but decided against it. I'm not sure what kind of shape the motor's bottom end is in, and don't want to put too much money in it at this time not knowing that . Once I've got everything back together and got it up and running, I'm going to start looking for another engine that can be rebuilt. I plan to take my time and get things done as I get the money. In the mean time I'm just going to drive it and work on the other "little" things and maybe even put a fresh coat of paint on it. I appreciate the help everyone has given me. I know its a nuisance answering the same old questions over and over and over again, but I appreciate it.
i do think you are going about the fix the right way. i have a cousin who fixed the upper end in his 5.0 f150 and then discovered the bottom end was shot.
maybe it will work out that your truck is a "deal".
i have cd and printed ford manuals if you need anything.
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