Hey guys, well I finished installing my msd ignition and it wont start. I put on new 8.5 wires, blaster coil, cap-a-dapt, 6al, and a timing box. I left the stock ignition in place so I can switch if I ever need to. I tried to start it with the msd unit. All it did was crank. I switched back to the duraspark box and all it did was crank. I have talked to 3 msd tech guys and they can't help me until I get the duraspark ignition going first. It ran perfectly before I started this project.
I have spark from the msd 6al and spark from the timing box. So those check out fine. I have tripple checked my instalation and can find no problems. The problem has to be something other than the msd. What could have gone wrong? All the wires on the distributor are in the correct location. On the msd cap-a-dapt there is a #1 on a terminal. I am assuming that is the #1 terminal for the firing order. If not, then my wires are in the wrong place. If it is for the #1 plug, then it is correct. I advanced and retarded the firing order 1 terminal and tried it. It did not solve my problem. Still just cranks.

Question 1: Is there anyway I could have thrown this distibutor 180 degrees out of time by replacing the cap & rotor & wires? All I did was remove the old cap and install the new one.

Question 2: Could my pick up coil have failed? I tested it with my multimeter and it came up to 595 kohms. I don't know what the k stands for. Is that satisfactory? Could this thing have failed because the new ignition?

Does anyone know what I could check? I need help. Truck wont start with either ignitions. It just cranks! It is getting fuel, and spark. This is very fustrating. I hope someone can help me. I have a lot of money invested in this little project with no results.

Thank you,

Jacob

 

If you truly have spark and fuel then you must have gotten the plugs wires screwed up somehow. I've done it enough times.This will give the exact symptoms you describe.

 

I just checked to see if the rotor is pointing at my #1 spark plug terminal and it is. I turned it to 0 degrees and the rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal. That is the correct way of doing it right? If so, my wires are in the correct order. I am not sure if it was on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. I also checked the #1 spark plug for spark. I get a nice blue spark. The carb is getting fuel. I can see it and smell it. I don't know what to check anymore.

Jacob

 

My truck has a mallory dual points dist. and when I had the timing 180 out it would not backfire or seem like it was sparking when it was it would just sound like it was gasping for air. You my have it 180 out or some plug wires crossed. hope this helps. Eric

 

Try taking the timing box out of the circuit. Its been a while since I did mine, but I had a no start problem after install. If I remember correctly, it had something to do with the timing box retarding spark during the cranking cycle. I will get out to the garage tonight and dig up the notes on this. Mike.
1977 F-100
300 I-6 / C-4 (soon to be AOD)
Offy C intake w/Edelbrock 500CFM
Hooker Ceramic coated headers w/duals, turbos, tips, and 02's
MSD6A w/Blaster Coil
Headlight relay system (Delanty style)
Overhead Mount FM-CD etc.
R-134 A/C system (I'm cool)

 

Hi,

The K stands for thousands of ohms. What you are seeing is 595,000 ohms, which seems awfully high to me. I am not sure what the spec is for the coil, but usually they are a really low value (like 50 ohms)

Check to make sure you are measuring it correctly.

Hope it helps,
-Brents

 

[font color=red size=2]All you did to the dist is replace cap, rotor, wires, right? If you didn't pull it out of the motor, there is no way it would get 180 off.

Did you count the firing order the correct way? Watch the rotor while you turn it over, does it spin clockwise or counter-clockwise? Be sure you count the firing order the same direction as the rotor spins...BTDT.

Just a thought.

Marty

"Cleverly Disguised as a Responsible Adult"[/font]

 

Ok, here is what I did. I took off all the wires and cap. I slowly turned the motor over until it read 0 degrees. The rotor moved counter clockwise. I then marked the rotor position with my finger, put back the cap and stuck the number 1 wire on that terminal. I then went in the firing order as my manual says to do. I hooked up the old ignition and gave a small prayer. Boom!! She fired right up!! I then let it idle for a bit. Then hooked up the msd unit, and what a sweet sound it was! Fired right up. I reved it beyond 3000 and the rev limiter is working. I then checked to see if I could retard it with my controler and I could. All systems seem to be working nicely. The funny thing is, I did this exact procedure 3 times yesterday with no results. I don't know what I did this time to make it work. I think patience and the knowledge of you folks is what got this thing running. Now I need to go clean up my mess and take this thing for a test drive. I hope this helps my mpg, since as I am typing this gas is going up.

I want to thank all of you who posted comments and suggestions. I couldn't have done it without your help.

Jacob

 

Glad to hear that it is running. Just out of curiosity, you did set the plug gap out to somewhere like .055" to .065", yes?
Mike
1977 F-100
300 I-6 / C-4 (soon to be AOD)
Offy C intake w/Edelbrock 500CFM
Hooker Ceramic coated headers w/duals, turbos, tips, and 02's
MSD6A w/Blaster Coil
Headlight relay system (Delanty style)
Overhead Mount FM-CD etc.
R-134 A/C system (I'm cool)

 

No, I have not changed the gap yet. I don't think I will untill I get new plugs. I am just running cheap Autolite plugs. I want to upgrade to some better plugs. Do you have any suggestions on what plug I should buy? And once I get the new plugs I should gap them between .055 and .065?

Jacob