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Anyone know where I can get a heater control valve (without spending $70) or the rubber gasket to gebuild it. This is for a 1948 with a Ford script heater. I think I found a cheap source for new heater cores. I will post an update in a week or two when I finish mine.
John - NNY
F-7
Look on Ebay, there are usually NOS or used ones there. It's the same from 48-50 car or truck. I've seen them go for $20-25 for a used on up to $80.00 for a new one or even rebuilt ones.
I don't mean to hijack your thread but since it's on the subject of heater control valves, I was wondering if anyone can suggest a darkside application for a manually operated (not vacuum) heater control valve that I might use on my truck. I used one years ago that worked out slick but I don't remember what it came off of originally. It was supposed to be operated by a cable but I just turned it on or off under the hood. I think it might have been something from the 60s...
I don't mean to hijack your thread but since it's on the subject of heater control valves, I was wondering if anyone can suggest a darkside application for a manually operated (not vacuum) heater control valve that I might use on my truck. I used one years ago that worked out slick but I don't remember what it came off of originally. It was supposed to be operated by a cable but I just turned it on or off under the hood. I think it might have been something from the 60s...
Vern
Mac's lists this one for an Econoline Van This one is what I have for my 51 226
My truck has a black unit with a lever that a cable attaches to. It's mounted in the engine compartment on the heater hose. It came with the truck but doesn't look original. I'd like to get rid of it and find something else. I really don't use the heater and leave the lever closed. Seems I still get heat coming into the interior.
The one for the Econoline looks promising. I could probably even plumb in something like the one in your 51 226. I just want to be able to cut the water going to the heater in the warm months. Thanks.
That valve shown for he E-Van looks just like the one on my '72 Bronco and also just like the one on a '69 F-100 that we worked on today. Should be readily available at most any parts store.
I used one for a MUCH newer vehicle. If you don't have to have an exact original, Just go to the auto parts store and have them pull out their catalog for heater parts. It'll have pictures so you can select one that will mount where you want it and has a control arm that will go in the correct way and will "throttle" the flow (Pull-hot, push -cold etc)
I don't think mine was more than $15-20. It was made out of ABS plastic. I don't think it'll EVER wear out!
Regards,
Rick
Originally Posted by John - NNY
Anyone know where I can get a heater control valve (without spending $70) or the rubber gasket to gebuild it. This is for a 1948 with a Ford script heater. I think I found a cheap source for new heater cores. I will post an update in a week or two when I finish mine.
John - NNY
F-7
Hmm...link no works. I need to install one before it starts warming up. My heater is hot all the time. Thats ok for now, but.........
If anyone makes one work, please keep the part number and post a pic for us?
Brian,
This is an old thread and you may have found something already but I found a heater valve this morning at NAPA that will work very well in my truck. The original application is for a 64 GMC. It is a compact non-vacuum actuated unit with a rotating lever which can be hooked up to a cable if you wish. In my case, I will just activate the lever under the hood when I want water to circulate in the heater. It accepts a 5/8 inch heater hose, the NAPA part number is 660-1301, and it sells for $19.25.
I know this is a really old thread now, but I need to clarify something. I have an in line shut off valve (will be cable operated) to shut off the hot water to my heater core.
Will this cause a problem with a Y-block?
Someone told me I have a continuous flow through system and it will overheat if I do this. He also said the only thing I can do is "loop" the hose back to the water pump and let it continue as normal. How would this guy know about Y-blocks...so I am asking the ones who actually have them.
The Y-Blocks have a bypass hose between the water pump and t-stat housing, so I would see no need to 'loop off' the heater hose. Many newer vehicles do indeed use the heater core circuit for a bypass, though...
Oh OK. Had me worried for a minute. Thank you sir. I shall proceed with the plan. I have enough heat in the cab now without the haeter core putting more in.
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