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On a '76 F250 w/460 and auto trans, what are the bolt on options for a replacement carb? It has a rebuilt Carter that appears to be shot by the rich condition it currently has and this is keeping it from passing emmissions testing.
Thanks
If i remember correctly, edlebrocks, carters and motorcrafts fit right on it...to run a holley on a stock manifold like i do you need an adapter plate...they cost like 20-30 bucks....i prefer Holley over the rest cause ive had better luck with them over the years as far as reliability running smooth....i run a 780 vacuum secondary on my 460, most guys run 750's, alot of people will tell you they are too big and you should run a 650, i dont agree with that, but maybe it would be better for a smog checked truck, i dont know....
A carter and edelbrock are the same carb. Why not just rebuild the one you have? As far as a replacement goes it depends on if it is a square bore or spread bore intake and what you plan on doing with the truck. Holleys are the most tunable, but are prone to leaks. Edelbrock, Carter, AFB are easier to make adjustments to and are usually polished so they clean up nicer if that matters to you.
My vote goes to the Edelbrock also, for the reasons by Darkhorse, plus there's no gaskets below fuel level to leak, and price. However, you must purchase the Ford kickdown linkage bracket seperately.
Where are you located? If you are running a CA spec engine do you have the Carter Thermoquad? If you have a Thermoquad it may be the well seals where the air horn goes into the float bowl. The original carb on that truck should have been a Motorcraft 4300D which is a spreadbore design. Later models changed to a Holley 4160 series.
I bought my 78 with a 460 and it came with an Edelbrock 1405. Wish I had left it on there cause the truck was getting 13 mph. :-) Anyway I replaced it with a 1407. It bolted right on and ran like a champ, still does. Of course the gas mileage went in the toilet though.
Problem is none of the Edelbrock carbs are street legal so if you're in a state that pays attention to that you can run into problems. Here in North Carolina it seems to depend on if you know the inspector well enough or not. I don't so I'm probably moving away from the after market carbs and reverting bact to the stock 4300 that would have come on the truck. This will also allow me to put the ERG system back on the vehicle which the inspectors seem to look for too.
In NC 25 year old or older vehicles don't have to pass an emissions test but NC DOT regulations provide for fines if you remove any of the smog equipment and the EGR is one of those items.
I've found rebuilt 4300s available several places on the Internet for anywhere from $150 to $250 which is about what you'd pay for an Edelbrock or a Holly.
My take on this is you're probably best off rebuilding or having the 4300 you have rebuilt.
I have a 1976 Ranger XLT trailer special. I also am going through CA smog soon. I have the Carter AFB carb also. If they did not fail you for having the carter AFB that is a relief to me.
I have taken apart my carburater many times. I have rust in the gas tank and an inline fuel filter but it seems to get alot of crud in the fuel bowls. In my experience the carb will run rich if the float is open to much which is easy to fix bend the tab alittle to not allow so much gas in the carb. It one of the air passages is clogged this will make it run rich also. I have taken my carb of the truck blew out all of the jets and had it back together on the truck in an hour it is not hard at all. I used can carb cleaner.
I think you will only need a kit if any of your gaskets are torn. It gives a nice tool for measuring your float level also.