When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This is my first automatic choke rebuild and install. I personally don't like the darn things, I prefer manual but oh well this is for my neighbor. Oh well I can learn.
There is a screw on fitting on the side if it. I'm guessing it goes to the intake manifold to get it's heat? What kind of fitting should it be? Rubber hose with brass screw on/push on ends?
Yup, you got it. One end goes there, the other goes to the open port in the top of the carb, it just goes from under the aircleaner to inside it. The brass fitting screws on, but I think it's a metal line on that end, the rubber line goes on the inlet side.
I know my Holley the wire for the automatic choke fell off and almost shorted on my intake manifold, luckily I believe in fuses. You should consider riveting it on or something, the 1/4" push connector rots. On mine, I used some JB Weld and drilled a small hole through and put a cotter pin through that to make sure it stayed.
Hot air choke, actually. Both are automatic-
Keep a close eye on the coil inside the intake, those like to rot out and then you have exhaust dumping straight into the carb. Not hard to make a new one, though.
Ford_Six, that's what I'm trying to figure out, LOL. I'm building an engine for my neighbor. He wants to have an automatic choke. So I find him a carb that is from a 1974 - 5 FE. This new engine is a '68 FE, now with headers.
Coming off of the black automatic choke housing on the carb, is a threaded nipple where SOMETHING attaches. That's ALL I know. I need to find a heat source to where I can get heat to get this carb to work. Now what?
If I scrap anything I'll install a manual choke! Then there won't be any guess work. I'm trying to find a solution to get this carb to work. Does anyone have any idea what I'm talking about, or a solution to the ordeal without changing chokes?
On the FE engines, there is a passage in the right side exhaust manifold. You can work around that with headers by wrapping 3/16" brake line around one runner of the header. Three or four wraps should work.
There are "heat stove kits" that consist of a small sheet metal tube that clamps onto the header pipe. Then the tubing runs to the choke as Jared said.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.