New Negative Battery Cable.....Location
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southwest Virginia
New Negative Battery Cable.....Location
Ok, I have heard that it don't matter where you connect your negative battery cable....... as long as its to the frame, engine block...... somewhere where there is a good ground....... is this true? I believe my intermittent starting problem is corroded negative cable, replaced thebattery terminal on it and noticed green corrosion going in the cable...... so would like to attach the new one to a easier location for replacement....ie alternator bracket.....or thick metal brace above radiator?? Any suggestions would be appreciated......Thanks...
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Central Texas
starting problem
I too had a similar starting problem. The cable had been corroded on the engine block end. Replaced the cable and have had no trouble since. I would recommend replacing the cable and connecting to the original location. It is there for multiple reasons. I would not compromise this connection without understanding all reasons for its designed location. Forgot to mention, I have a '78 with a 351M.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
You can ground it to either the frame or the engine block but it's important that you also have a good ground between the block and the frame. Personally, I run aftermarket terminals that have several lead outputs on them and run a ground to both my block and my frame.
Postmaster
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All my ground cables run to the engine block on my 1970's Ford trucks, on the passenger side, right behind the alternator, use a scraper and sand paper to prep and clean the area on the block. Clean the battery terminasl, and the connecters at the starter solenoid with some sand paper or steel wool located on the passenger side inner fender. Check the ground wire at the voltage regulator, clean if necessary.
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Not to get off the subject, but a trick my dad taught me a long time ago to fight corrosion on the battery terminals is every time you check the oil, put a couple of drops of oil on each terminal. It does make them attract dust and dirt, but keeps them corrosion free. Also in my case,there is plenty of oil leaking on the engine block to keep that end from corroding!
Postmaster
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My father and uncle taught me the same thing, and I learned through the years, that after awhile oil does not make a good conductor of electricity. What you want to use di-electric grease and is sold at most auto part stores.
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Buck
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Buck
Postmaster
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Since the starter is the biggest load your battery will see, and since that load is substantial, I would recommend grounding to the block itself. That way your high current load has the best connection. Then make sure the block is well grounded to the frame.
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New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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There are supposed to be 3 grounds...2 of them are weaved ground straps.
1) Negative Cable to Block where mentioned above.
2) Weaved cable from Block to Frame
3) Weaved cable from engine Intake to Firewall (cab)
This is to prevent any grounding problems affecting everything.
1) Negative Cable to Block where mentioned above.
2) Weaved cable from Block to Frame
3) Weaved cable from engine Intake to Firewall (cab)
This is to prevent any grounding problems affecting everything.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34
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From: Southwest Virginia
Well.... removed old cable..... it was bad looking..... used some degreaser and sand paper on bolt and area where cable was going back on....... wiped off the bolt and put it back where it was with the new cable....... and now the same..... clicks and thats it....... read battery.... it was 12.50 volts.....new cables on battery...... tight connections..... but still zip for starting.......there is a ghost in the beast........ just ain't figured where yet.......
Postmaster
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With your truck in park (if you have an automatic transmission) or neutral (manual transmission). With a set of jumper cables. Jump the starter solenoid from the battery power end to the other end running to the starter. Does the starter engage?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southwest Virginia
Well didn'tget to jump it yesterday but did see something not good yesterday when I was tightening the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid......I could still move the cable at that connection.....the cable and post on the solenoid was moving......so I went and bought a new starter solenoid...... hopefully that will do the trick...... ever hear of the post turning..... ie maybe too much torque on the post?? Let me know what you think and I'll post after I replace it and tell if it worked or not.......
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
where is the negative cable attached?? you only said you put it back where it was before.....i have mine attached to the head about 3 inches above the alternator bolt, i have a braided cable going from the back of the intake to the cab, and a smaller braided cable going from the negative cable terminal to the radiator support... i still need to get one from the block or body to the frame, but it works fine the way i have it....as for the solenoid, i say go ahead and replace it, since that bolt is loose there could be a broke connection inside....which bolt is it?? there should be a letter right above it....one more thing, double check the postive connection at the starter, it needs to be very clean, and nice and tight...
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southwest Virginia
New starter solenoid didn't help....... same click just louder at solenoid....... wondering about the starter cable....... is old...... could be corroded inside.....what do you think........by the way the battery postive post was the one not tightening good and tight.... and was the one movingwith cable
One more cable then all heavy cables will have been replaced........now to remember if I can reach that bolt with the starter connected to the truck....
One more cable then all heavy cables will have been replaced........now to remember if I can reach that bolt with the starter connected to the truck....
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: South Williamsport, PA
Check the cable going to the starter. I had the same problem before and it turned out to be a loose connection at the starter. I just tightened the bolt holding the cable to the starter and it started right up after that.