Higher output blower
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New User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 21
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From: Alaska
Higher output blower
Hello
I have a 1985 f150 300. I need more heat output to cab. I do have 195 thermostat. I read a previous note about a higher output fan for the basic heater. Mine worked fine till wife convinced me to relocate here to Alaska. Now I have to wear gloves most of commute to work when temp below -10. I plan on putting i a headliner in the spring. Currently just have the metal cab with no ceiling insulation Im sure. We only have napa, autozone and carquest. Thanks
I have a 1985 f150 300. I need more heat output to cab. I do have 195 thermostat. I read a previous note about a higher output fan for the basic heater. Mine worked fine till wife convinced me to relocate here to Alaska. Now I have to wear gloves most of commute to work when temp below -10. I plan on putting i a headliner in the spring. Currently just have the metal cab with no ceiling insulation Im sure. We only have napa, autozone and carquest. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: Mid-Missouri
May want to think about replacing your heater core.
What kind of engine temp are you achieving. You won't get much heat in the cab until the engine is warm enough to open the Thermostat.
Also, try a Redneck Blockheater. Fasten a piece of cardboard in front of the grill to prevent cold air from cooling all of the radiator. Leave a little bit exposed to prevent overheating. Watch your temp gauge.
Insulating the cab might help a little but you are still losing a lot of heat in other critical places. Insulate the heater hoses under the hood maybe. Insulate the radiator hose as well if you can find a wrap that is not easily flammable.
Also, check you coolant level and concentration. You are fast approaching temps that will freeze your radiator. With the Wind Chill factor, you may already be getting some localized icing in the radiator.
What kind of engine temp are you achieving. You won't get much heat in the cab until the engine is warm enough to open the Thermostat.
Also, try a Redneck Blockheater. Fasten a piece of cardboard in front of the grill to prevent cold air from cooling all of the radiator. Leave a little bit exposed to prevent overheating. Watch your temp gauge.
Insulating the cab might help a little but you are still losing a lot of heat in other critical places. Insulate the heater hoses under the hood maybe. Insulate the radiator hose as well if you can find a wrap that is not easily flammable.
Also, check you coolant level and concentration. You are fast approaching temps that will freeze your radiator. With the Wind Chill factor, you may already be getting some localized icing in the radiator.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Good post Imadore.
You could rip some small wooden slats, 3/4" by 1/8" that you can bend to snap in over your door frames to hold a sheet of foam in place to provide insulation until you can get something better.
Also make sure all your weather stripping is in good shape to minimize air exchange.
Imadore might be right too about the heater core. Have you tried back flushing it?
It's been cold here at Tahoe, but -10? That's harsh!
You could rip some small wooden slats, 3/4" by 1/8" that you can bend to snap in over your door frames to hold a sheet of foam in place to provide insulation until you can get something better.
Also make sure all your weather stripping is in good shape to minimize air exchange.
Imadore might be right too about the heater core. Have you tried back flushing it?
It's been cold here at Tahoe, but -10? That's harsh!
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: Mid-Missouri
Wind and moisture/humidity work together to more effectively cool or in this case conduct heat engergy away from the source (i.e. warmed coolant). Although, the air up there is likely very dry, there is moisture present.
With the lower wind chill, the heat wicks the heat away from the cooling system faster than the engine can produce it.
I've experience it in extreme conditions. The antifreeze in the radiator will eventually start to develop ice crystals especially if the flow is restricted in the fin tubes due to corrosion. Portions of the coolant stagnate and do not return to the engine for reheat. Water is like electricty when it flows. It will take the path of least resistance (i.e. an unobstructed fin tube).
With the lower wind chill, the heat wicks the heat away from the cooling system faster than the engine can produce it.
I've experience it in extreme conditions. The antifreeze in the radiator will eventually start to develop ice crystals especially if the flow is restricted in the fin tubes due to corrosion. Portions of the coolant stagnate and do not return to the engine for reheat. Water is like electricty when it flows. It will take the path of least resistance (i.e. an unobstructed fin tube).
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
if you need more heat fast and can't wait for the truck to heat up, a canadian trucker
i know uses an auxilary heater (catalytic heater) that campers use and runs it in the
cab. they are safe to use in an enclosed area with a minimum of fresh air and run off
a propane bottle. beats the heck out of freezing.
i know uses an auxilary heater (catalytic heater) that campers use and runs it in the
cab. they are safe to use in an enclosed area with a minimum of fresh air and run off
a propane bottle. beats the heck out of freezing.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Mid-Missouri
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
I can't say for sure about the truck's built in the 80"s but I know in the 70's the high out put heater core was available. My brother's truck had a high out put heeater and mine did not - big difference. Some did change to the high out put heater core by modifying the housing. Hope you can do the same for your truck.
