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I need to adjust the parking brake on my '96 F350 because it won't hold on a hill. I wanted to do it over the weekend but the instruction in the Chiltons manual didn't match my truck. I don't have the adjusting rods on the cable system underneath the bed like it says. Is it adjusted at the pedal or inside the drums? It's not a Super Duty so it doesn't have the brake on the driveshaft. Thanks.
the super duty trucks don't have driveshaft brakes. follow the parking brake cable to under the back of the cab. there should be a nut in the middle. that is what you tighten to adjust it.
There is no threaded rod adjuster where the cable splits to the drums. It's just a bracket where all three cables come together. It's a diesel truck, do they have different parking brakes than gas trucks?
The shaft that the single cable from the pedal attaches to should be threaded. You problably have a spring from the bracket too the plate that has the 2 cables from the drums anchored. Inside the spring at the bracket is where the adjustment nut should be. If it is like mine it will be heavily corroded. Plan on several applications of pentrating oil before it can be moved.
Your Rear Brakes is out of adjustment , also so jack up the rearend , an take the cover off @ the Hub inside an take a screwdriver an turn it one way to see if your going in the right direction if not go the other way , an do both wheels like that an after u get all that u should have a good parking brake
Your Rear Brakes is out of adjustment , also so jack up the rearend , an take the cover off @ the Hub inside an take a screwdriver an turn it one way to see if your going in the right direction if not go the other way , an do both wheels like that an after u get all that u should have a good parking brake
Exactly, there is a little slot on the brake backing plate on the bottom. To expand the shoes you want to press it down until they are where you want it.
Last edited by mdjohnson; Feb 14, 2006 at 10:10 AM.
Reason: typo
Your Rear Brakes is out of adjustment , also so jack up the rearend , an take the cover off @ the Hub inside an take a screwdriver an turn it one way to see if your going in the right direction if not go the other way , an do both wheels like that an after u get all that u should have a good parking brake
If the adjuster isn't working then he has pentially bigger problems. But he was asking specificly about the parking brake adjustment which is part of the cable assembly.
You are partially correct, if the rear brake is far enough out of adjustment the the parking brake may not engage properly. A possible quick check for this is to simply see if the rear hub can be removed without running the adjustor down.
Pulling the hubs at this point is probably a good idea just to make sure everything is attached correctly and working.
I appreciate the replies guys, but lets not get ahead of ourselves. I have no reason at this point to suspect the problem lies inside the brake drums until I have tried to adjust the brake via the cable mechanism. What I am specifically trying to figure out is how to adjust the cable tension. I want to try that first before I tear into the drums. I know what you have referred to as the adjusting rod - it is clearly shown in the picture in my Chilton's manual; however, the cable mechanism on my truck differs from this setup. I have posted pictures in my gallery showing the link bracket between the pedal cable and the drum cables. Although the pictures are a little fuzzy, there is clearly no adjusting rod. Do I adjust the cable tension directly at the pedal mechanism? Thanks.
I understand what you're saying, skeeter, but you're the one getting ahead of yourself. You're approaching this the wrong way. It's entirely possible that the whole problem lies in the rear drums. You have to make sure the brakes are adjusted properly, and if the parking brake still doesn't work, then you have reason to go ahead and tighten up the cable.
The self-adjusters on these trucks never worked all that well, even from the factory. They are designed to adjust the shoes outwards one click at a time, and only when you are in reverse and come to a complete stop. Even then, they are not always going to work properly. They are a poor design at best. You can't rely on them to adjust the brakes properly. You must learn how to periodically adjust the rear brakes yourself with a screwdriver. They have no way of sensing when the brakes are out of adjustment or when they are already adjusted so tight that any more will result in cracked shoes and drums from overheating.
Once you get them adjusted properly, try your parking brake. If it doesn't work right, then you can look at adjusting the parking brake.
I would also check to make sure the cables are actually working. I just changed one on my truck that was frozen. With only one working it apeared when I steped on the pedeal that the brakes were out of adjustment when really it was the frozen cable that made the whole system week.
I understand what you're saying, skeeter, but you're the one getting ahead of yourself. You're approaching this the wrong way. It's entirely possible that the whole problem lies in the rear drums. You have to make sure the brakes are adjusted properly, and if the parking brake still doesn't work, then you have reason to go ahead and tighten up the cable.
The self-adjusters on these trucks never worked all that well, even from the factory. They are designed to adjust the shoes outwards one click at a time, and only when you are in reverse and come to a complete stop. Even then, they are not always going to work properly. They are a poor design at best. You can't rely on them to adjust the brakes properly. You must learn how to periodically adjust the rear brakes yourself with a screwdriver. They have no way of sensing when the brakes are out of adjustment or when they are already adjusted so tight that any more will result in cracked shoes and drums from overheating.
Once you get them adjusted properly, try your parking brake. If it doesn't work right, then you can look at adjusting the parking brake.
Hope that helps some.
It's quick and easy. First make sure that the system is free and moving. Push the pedal and verify that nothing is jammed or frozen. Then jack up the rear of the truck so both wheels are off the ground. Spin one of the wheels and it should spin freely with no rubbing sound from the drum on the shoes. Stick screwdriver or brake spoon in the slot at the bottom of the backing plate and engage it into the teeth of the adjuster and pull up on the screwdriver while it spins the adjuster down one or two clicks. These babies have a big slot. You can stick your tool in there and use a flashlight at the same time and really see what you're doing in there. Spin the wheel. still no contact with drum/shoes. Adjust some more. Keep doing that until you start to hear the drums rubbing on the brake shoes. You want just a tiny little bit of rubbing action. Still be able to turn wheel freely when you're done. Roll over and do the other side the same and you should have a better brake pedal and your e-brake should engage right at the start of a push on the pedal, instead of a long, many click push to the floor.
Thanks for all the help guys. I adjusted the drums and the parking brake works better now, but it still seems like it could be better. It will hold on a slight hill now (10-15 degrees maybe) but the pedal has to be all the way down. I can't say how well the brake worked when the truck was new, but I do know that my 1991 F250 I just got rid of had a way better park brake. Anyway, guess I'll have to open the drums next to see what kind of shape the shoes are in. Thanks again.
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