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Locating the GP's

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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #1  
LonnieD's Avatar
LonnieD
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From: Covington usa
Locating the GP's

I also have a fun time in starting my truck. We don't have harsh winters so it just takes a few times to coax her along and white smoke all over the neighborhood! I can hear a faint ticking noise but the light for start goes right out, I'm asuming something between me and the plugs isn't working right. Being this my first non-gas engine I'm still feeling my way around...Can I for instance leave the block heater plugged-in all night? Would that help if I have non-working GP's?...I cleaned my air cleaner today and With the Turbo spread all over the top of this engine I don't seem to have a clear shot at the plugs anyway..with the lift kit my son put on her it's hard just to get any where to the engine ...International said they would test the GP system for about 2 hours...100+ and it might be worth it. Any quick test yanyone could suggest so I wouldn't have to pay as much?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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7.3burnoutbuddy
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Sounds like some of your GP'S are burnt out. Try and replace them first. And leaving your truck pluged in overnight wont hurt anything either.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 04:50 AM
  #3  
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tjc transport
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Lonnie, once the sun comes up, and it gets a little warmer outside, i will get you some pics of what the gp's look like and where they are.
i also have a 4 inch lift, and use a tire step. i will get a shot of that for you with the web address. probably the hands down best truck tool i ever bought.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 07:28 AM
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tjc transport
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here are some gp pics. the first is a close up of the second one on the driver side. the second pic is the driver side front 2. then there is the tire step. www.tirestep.com. makes life allot easier, and the back and legs will thank you for it.



 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 07:30 AM
  #5  
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tjc transport
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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oops, the tire step site is no longer any good. i will have to see if i can find where i got it.

i just did a quick scan on ebay, and they have a bunch of different ones listed, but none with the chain design like i have. $20-$130 price range.
 

Last edited by tjc transport; Feb 13, 2006 at 07:35 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 08:34 AM
  #6  
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PLC7.3
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From: Manitoba
Click on my name and email me......I will send a test for your controller. The following info is also applicable........

If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
by DieselDon

You can get the back glow plugs out using a 1/4 inch drive socket, it helps to remove the injector lines and vibration clip to give yourself some room ,but you do not need to remove the turbo.
 

Last edited by PLC7.3; Feb 13, 2006 at 08:36 AM.
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