Heater Core Issues
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
Heater Core Issues
For some reason I have had very bad luck with heater cores and the truck running hot.
I have replaced the heater core the following times:
Dec. 1999-restored truck/preventative maintancence
Nov. 2004-had been leaking for awhile
Dec. 2005-leaking again
Now it is leaking again. Each time the heater core had been replaced with a factory Ford part because the aftermarket ones are smaller than the one I have in my truck. Factory non-air/high output heater.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with this issue.
I have replaced the heater core the following times:
Dec. 1999-restored truck/preventative maintancence
Nov. 2004-had been leaking for awhile
Dec. 2005-leaking again
Now it is leaking again. Each time the heater core had been replaced with a factory Ford part because the aftermarket ones are smaller than the one I have in my truck. Factory non-air/high output heater.
I was just wondering if anyone else has had trouble with this issue.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 327
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From: Los Angeles
My dad has had similar troubles with his 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The engine doesn't overheat, but you can never get warm air in the cabin. Thank goodness for heated leather seats. 
Do you the little bypass tube on the water neck? If it's blocked it'll force to much coolant through the heater core and over pressurized it.
Do you the little bypass tube on the water neck? If it's blocked it'll force to much coolant through the heater core and over pressurized it.
Last edited by Larry_the_handyman; Feb 12, 2006 at 11:11 PM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
Likes: 18
From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
If you have a plastic heater blower with a plastic housing it can build up a static charge which can put an electrical potential in your heater core, causing galvanic corrosion.
Two ways to fix it: One is to line the blower housing with sticky-backed foil and ground it. The other, easier way is to clamp a wire onto the nipple where your heater hose fits and ground that.
To check this theory, after you heater has been running with the blower on high for half an hour, take a digital VOM and set it on the lowest dc Volts scale and read between the metal of the heater core and ground. If you get anything over .0015 volts, do the fix above.
Two ways to fix it: One is to line the blower housing with sticky-backed foil and ground it. The other, easier way is to clamp a wire onto the nipple where your heater hose fits and ground that.
To check this theory, after you heater has been running with the blower on high for half an hour, take a digital VOM and set it on the lowest dc Volts scale and read between the metal of the heater core and ground. If you get anything over .0015 volts, do the fix above.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 321
Likes: 1
From: Minnesota
The funny thing is, the original heater core lasted about 16yrs. The thermostat housing only has the connection for the upper radiator hose. The heater core is connected from the front of the intake and the top left of the water pump. I should have another heater core in a couple of days. Atleast this core is under warrenty. After I replace the core I am going to pressure check the system and check to see if the core is charging.
