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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Running board repair

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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #1  
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Running board repair

Since I don't know much about body and metal modification, I need some advice on repairing my one running board. I notice that I have a 6 inch long crack or what looks like previous rust eating the metal away. Its on the top along the raised edges of the running board. Its not big, but very noticable. I'm assuming the metal is thin from the metal eroding, making it difficult to weld. I just want to clean it up and fill it in. I can touch it up with paint. Any ideas on repairing this?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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You have a picture of it? My suggestion would be to get it blasted (remove gunk) and get somone to weld it up for you (even a patch panel if needed). I would volunteer, but I am a slight drive.

You have any buddies in your club out there with a welder?

EDIT: On a side note (but related), read your sig line. Do it right.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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Brian, I don't have pics right now, but the running is painted. I hate to sandblast it and do the welding etc. I have a welder, I'm trying to avoid repainting the whole running board. Look for some ideas to fix this. Its not real noticable unless you look directly at the running board. But I look at it whenever I step into the truck. Plus I have concern that the area keeps growing.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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Ahh I see. I forget yours is already painted, sorry. I am used to mine. Its so many colors of paint and primer no one would notice.

If its rusty, it will grow. They call it "cancer" for a reason. If you can get to the back side you might be able to clean it with a wire brush (even one on a grinder) and coat it with something like POR-15 (I have never used it). As far as the top surface, I guess anything that will seal it would slow the rust.

Believe me, I am certainly no expert here. Just thinking out load.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Not sure if the '56's are the same as the early F-1's, but on them the cause of this is a reinforcement, a U-shaped channel welded to the underside. It traps moisture and dirt and eventually it rusts along the edge of the reinforcement. So you'd have to break all the spot-welds along the reinforcement first, get it out of the way, then weld a patch from underneath. Then you need to replace the reinforcement.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 09:27 PM
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My 48 f-1 had the rust from the u-channels. I was able to cut and weld from the top, since the rust was confined to the channel area. It was difficult welding job, as the metal was thinned from rust, but it came out ok.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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Here is my 2 cents, You have a perfect looking truck, if it was mine I would just do the whole running board like Brian B suggested, I know you are not wanting to do that but my theory is if you are going to do anything to it at all, you may as well do it right. A quick fix will come back to haunt you down the road, and unless you do the whole thing it will still be noticable to you and you may possibly still have to have it painted. Re-paint of the running boards should not cost you all that much in the sceem of things. Keep her a pretty as she looks, I think you will be much happier that way.

Kyle
 
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Is the rust through where you can bolt a step plate over it? The por-15 treatment would stop any further growth of the hole and the step plate would cover it. Jag
 
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Sorry to be a smart a**, but it comes natural. You caption says, If your not going to do it right the first time, don't do it at all.

Sounds like you should blast the area, replace the bad metal and repaint the area.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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I know what my signature states, that's why I'm coming to the experts, you guys. I can do a quick fix of applying some JB Weld and grinding it smooth, but you guys have the right advice.

Jag, its further down from the step plate, its actually located directly under the rear seam of the door. It not much to remove it and that's what I'll do, just looking at ways to seal it, without destroying it or making it look worse than it is. LOL....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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any quicky patch will come back to haunt you later. To add to your siggy: too little time to do it right the first time, always costs more time to do it right later.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 01:30 PM
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When I pulled my old boards off, the PO had packed Bondo into the cracks (which look small from the top, but went almost a foot). When I tore off the reinforcement, he'd packed in at least a can of Bondo! It had filled the channel, must have been 10 pounds of Bondo in each reinforcement channel. I will admit, the Bondo hadn't cracked, and had been painted over. (This PO's favorite trick was to coat everything with roofing tar -- a real treat to get off)
 
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 02:18 PM
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Albuq- with 10 lbs of bondo apply, maybe the PO wasn't sealing the cracks, but going for lowering the truck a little? LOL.....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
When I pulled my old boards off, the PO had packed Bondo into the cracks (which look small from the top, but went almost a foot). When I tore off the reinforcement, he'd packed in at least a can of Bondo! It had filled the channel, must have been 10 pounds of Bondo in each reinforcement channel. I will admit, the Bondo hadn't cracked, and had been painted over. (This PO's favorite trick was to coat everything with roofing tar -- a real treat to get off)
If you have more to remove, the best solvent for roofing tar is Kerosene (father was a roofer).
 
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Old Feb 16, 2006 | 08:18 PM
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Does Diesel work as good as Kerosene? Someone told me it did.

Kyle
 
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