Wiring questions...

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Feb 12, 2006 | 11:59 AM

ericsmith32

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From: Kansas City, KS

Wiring questions...

I about to embark on a major stereo rewire. Speaker wires, power everthing. The speaker wires are easy the power is where the questions lie. Does the stereo mainly pull it's juice from the constant 12+ or the from the ignition? What gauge of wire should I run for the constant 12+ and ground to the battery? I was thinking 12-14 gauge the stock is what 18-20 gauge? I'll probably leave the ignition wire alone i'll have to look at wiring diagrams to see if theres a better place to run it. I'm relocating the battery to the hatch and it will have 2-gauge to the front(+) and to the frame(-) so that wiring will be taken care of. Do you think all of this work would be worth it? I guess I ought to say that this isn't on a ford truck but a ford car but I find this section to be the best to ask question among all the boards I used to be a member of.

Feb 13, 2006 | 08:17 AM

fordboy_52

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Joined: May 2004

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From: Abilene Kansas

well it depends,w aht vehicle are u working on? i would suggest just using the current wires as it is good enough. i pull more than most with my head unit and im using stock wires. why would u want to run new 12v and grounds? this confuses me

Matt

Feb 13, 2006 | 09:57 AM

ericsmith32

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From: Kansas City, KS

I'm basically wondering if a increase in the load capacity of the wires to the stereo if it would help the stereo in power output, sound quality etc. Right now the faceplate blinks with the bass, although i've never seen a pioneer that hasn't. It's on a Aspire.

Feb 13, 2006 | 09:59 AM

fordboy_52

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Joined: May 2004

Posts: 6,461

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From: Abilene Kansas

that wont help that aspect. just blame it on the "cheap" head unit. my pioneers dont blink at all and my stereo will kill the truck at idel sometimes. if you want to increase sound try a newer better head unit. the wires wont make a change u can notice, if any at all

Matt

Feb 13, 2006 | 11:36 AM

brianas

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Joined: Nov 2003

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From: MASS

12-16 gauge wire would be exceptable--if you run a new power wire to the
battery - be sure to include a inline fuse. Since you are doing a major rewire
job--Consider adding a small universal-aftermarket fuse panel to add all
your acc. on to. they are relatively inexpensive 10-20dollars. Run 1 ground for
your stereo equip. to chassis if possible. Upgrade your battery's ground to chassis wire.
Unless you have some major current consuming Amps etc.... at full tilt--you should not have the blinking \dimming of the head unit.
check your battery and alt.
g/l

Feb 13, 2006 | 12:31 PM

ericsmith32

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Joined: Feb 2005

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From: Kansas City, KS

Didn't think about the fuse box that's a good idea. I'll be running a ground straight to the battery as well, since dc actually runs in reverse just upgrading the 12+ constant would be a oxy-moron. The battery cables will the 2 gauge both ways.

Feb 13, 2006 | 12:37 PM

IPACA9

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Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 469

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From: Independence, Missouri

It them DB Drives baby!!! Power hungry lil *******s...lol Thursday night I put a Pioneer DEH-3800 and some DB Drive 6x9s and 4x6s in his 90 S10 Blazer. His display flickered as well.