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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 04:01 PM
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jeep purchase tips

looking for a mid 90's or older jeep TJ or YJ, anyone know what to lookout for in the way of problem spots. whats to many miles for one of the vehicles? any tips would be great. thanks Randy
 
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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TJ didn't come out until '97 or '98, so mid-90's would limit you to a YJ.

I was looking at buying one of these a while ago, and I found a couple of pretty good Jeep forums, so do a search for them. (I found that the ones in my price range were pretty old and beat up. )

If memory serves correctly, the weakest link is the Peugeout (sp?) transmission some of them were equipped with. I think they are also somewhat prone to frame rot, if you live whre they salt roads, but I'm not sure.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 08:50 PM
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thanks I just want to know what to focus on when I test drive One
 
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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Number one, DO NOT buy the 4 cylinder models. They don't have nearly enough power.

I'd say buy a CJ 7 with a V8 5spd. If your not to concerned about durability in a wreck of some kind, look for a fiberglass tub.

The biggest thing to look for in any jeep, is rust, they are worse than fords.

Test drive it like you would any 4wd.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 07:10 AM
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I just sold my '95 Wrangler a couple weeks ago. First, like Snake1979 said, stay with the 6 cylinder for some get up. If you never have owned a Jeep before I'd say spend a couple bucks and rent one for the weekend. They are awesome vehicles but the ride ain't like a Cadillac. Make sure this is the vehicle for you. Stay with the full doors. The halfs are a pain when you have to get the window down quick. My Jeep served me well, I have no complaints. Oh, and if you go for a manual, Hurst makes a sweet short-throw shifter.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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Full hard top and doors, you can always go with a bikini top later pretty cheap$.

4.0/258 in any model Wrangler/CJ-7. The 4 banger will not save you any money in gas and being a GM design ....

I would shy away from pre 1990 (I think 1984-1989) computer controlled models because it is a "dumb" computer with no way for testing without the factory scanner set up. Which pretty much limits you to replacing all five to eight relays to try to get it running, if you are lucky.

Get one with a Dana 44 rear axle or one someone that has swapped in a Ford 8.8. Avoid the Dana 20.

Buy one with AC and stock sized tires so you do not get one beat to death. Look at the tow hooks and see if the frame is bent and check around the rear gas tank for trail damage.

I have worked at Ford and Jeep dealers and stock to stock and just swapping 31s to the vehicle, I always thought the BII was a much nicer day to day driver to take off road.

A BII on 31s will actually have more ground clearance under its transmission/transfer case cross member then a Jeep on 31s. The turn radius is WAY tighter with a BII then a Wrangler and the BII has a shorter wheelbase (94).

The thing the Jeep has is a removable top, the 4.0L in the Jeep really gets you moving compared to the fairly gutless 2.9L in a BII, and the "Jeep" thing image.

If I was going to buy the ultimate Jeep and had the money, I would get the CJ-7/CJ-8 with a V-8 304 and the standard transmission.

Jeeps have a very poor reliability record (pretty much any year, check Consumer Reports), about the worse of the worse, but, if you are really going to take it off road and be hanging out the doors spotting yourself, then buy an older carb. 258/304 CJ-7 and have a go at it.

For the newer models, I thought the Sahara editions looked fairly classy.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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drive it off the side of a mountian see if its really "trail rated." just kidding.

the wranglers are pretty cool. the 4.0 will have some getup and go, i've detailed a few of them seems they take miles pretty well, seen a couple pushing 175,000 miles. the dealership i detail for tends to stay away from the ones that look like they've been beat.

my advice would be find one that still has stock sized tires and no lift on it. so you know its problly never been off roaded to hard.

if it has doors with the hindges on the out side check for any signs of rust or damage to the hindges, two hindges and a strap is all that hold the door on a few of them.

check out the frame for any signs of damage, its pretty usless without a good frame. if you find a good old rusty one theres a few companys that carry complete body tubs.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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thanks guys. great stuff I never thought of. good point about stock tires and no lift. I'll steer away from that. I don't plan on any hardcore trail riding, just want to haul the rotti out to the sticks so he can run around, and my son needs something to drive when he's home from school. So I think I'll try to get something stock. are the auto's any good or should I look for a standard
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 02:12 AM
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If you can afford it, find a Rubicon. It comes stock with most of the usual mods done by the factory so it's worth some extra money.

And in Maine, you will be much happier with the factory hard-top.

My regular ride is a 2000 Wrangler sport, 4.0 five speed. There ain't much elbow room on the left with the full doors if you are larger than average.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 05:28 AM
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Manual tranny, for Gods sake don't by the Snafu auto. I've had freinds with several, all of them with autos end up changing the tranny out.

I'm kind of half looking for one now for my old lady. She likes the looks of a jeep, I like that idea, maybe she'll remind me of Daisy.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Snake1979
Number one, DO NOT buy the 4 cylinder models. They don't have nearly enough power.

I'd say buy a CJ 7 with a V8 5spd. If your not to concerned about durability in a wreck of some kind, look for a fiberglass tub.

The biggest thing to look for in any jeep, is rust, they are worse than fords.

Test drive it like you would any 4wd.
CJ with a V8? That was not offered stock from the factory, aftermarket swap, could be a headache if the person who did th swap does not have all the paperwork stating what has been done.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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cj5's came stock with the 304 AMC v8 as an option from the factory. I am not sure about the cj7's,but a AMC v8 is pretty much a bolt in affair for the 80's cj7's I put a AMC 360 in my 86 cj7 that came with the 258 6 cylinder,and all I had to change was the motor mounts and re-route the fuel lines. Now your playing with power!!! a 401 AMC would have been even better,but I couldn't find one at the time,and still haven't found one for a decent price,they are getting rare.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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You ask about the miles on a Jeep.

My 91 has 178000 miles on the 6 cyl and is running great, starts right up the first time with no problems. It's got 4" suspension lift and 33x12.50 BFG Muds, 1.25" shackle lift, and a 12k milemarker winch.





Before the shackle lift and winch


I just finished helping a friend do a complete rebuild on a 77 (I think) CJ7 with a v8 (unknown which one). Pulled everything off and put it all back together with a new tub. Runs great and looks great. Another friend has a 81 CJ8 Scrambler.

I would get a 91+ since they are fuel injected.
 

Last edited by daveplot; Feb 13, 2006 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by cjben
cj5's came stock with the 304 AMC v8 as an option from the factory. I am not sure about the cj7's,but a AMC v8 is pretty much a bolt in affair for the 80's cj7's
Opps, must have been having a brain fart.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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The early model CJ7's had a option for a V8.
 
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