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7.3 Alternator going????

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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 09:48 PM
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7.3 Alternator going????

I have a 2000 F-550 with a 7.3.with 130,000 miles. Today the battery light started coming on when I first start it, and stays on for a few minutes. As the engine tachs up for a few minutes of driving it goes out over 2000 RPM. Then it doesn't come back on at all. Could this be signs of the alternator beginning to go? I need to say that today I was idling alot while loading logs this morning. i drove it home 1 1/2 hours, so plenty of time to charge the system. Any help appricated.

Thanks Ironwood
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Check the idle voltage. Should be in the high 13 - low 14v range if the alt is charging. Should be able to maintain that voltage with accessories on.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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About the cheapest shotgun shell you can throw at it is to get a set of alternator brushes and install them. I think the p/n is F1DZ10347A, and there's one available on ebay for $6.95 and shipping.

Pop
 

Last edited by SpringerPop; Feb 10, 2006 at 11:12 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 10:56 PM
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Double post, sorry!

Pop
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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What SpringerPop said. Your symptoms are classic worn out brushes barely making contact with the armature.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 11:09 PM
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my roommates 00 f250 7.3 psd just did the same thing about 2 weeks ago same symptoms and he got stuck at work and needed an alternator.... changed it in 10 and jumped it runnin fine now
 
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Old Feb 10, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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Yep, it will continue to get worse with the battery light coming on. When it does go completly, it will drain you batteries completly. Go ahead and do the repairs now and save yourself the hastle of draining you batteries. Good Luck
 
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 06:23 AM
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Thanks folks, I will get on it today. Ironwood
 
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Old Feb 11, 2006 | 09:37 PM
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same thing happened to me for about 2 weeks, then I boiled my batteries and pegged out my battery voltage meter. One alternator and 5 minutes later, good as new. Very easy to change!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 04:36 PM
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Same thing with mine. The charge light when on and off and than just stayed on. Night trip from Connecticut to Tenn. pulling a 22' enclosed trailer. Just made it to the Ford Truck dealer in Nashville. $500.00 later I was on my way.
Ed
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 05:14 PM
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Talking

Thanks again folks. I ordered a 130 amp rebuild with a 1 year warrentee from the local alt/starter shop $200 (be in tomorrow). NAPA had the 110 amp lifetime for $253. I like NAPA but people seem to like the 130 amp. I am getting ready for a big trip at the end of this week so this is very timely. I am learning alot from everyones postings. I found this truck used and weeded out a v-10 /auto F-550 with everyone's help early on. Once I learn how to post a photo I will post a picture. I did put a Detroit Locker and 391 gears in it (it/they all had 488's) that has made a big difference. I also got a superchip on the lowest setting, I use it to haul, with a 12' Army bed off a 5 ton truck with flip down sides and custom crane and canopy when it gets wet. Thanks again.

Ironwood
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
About the cheapest shotgun shell you can throw at it is to get a set of alternator brushes and install them. I think the p/n is F1DZ10347A, and there's one available on ebay for $6.95 and shipping.

Pop
Pop, is the the ebay item you where referring to?
8028590297
 
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ironwood
I did put a Detroit Locker and 391 gears in it (it/they all had 488's) that has made a big difference.
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the gears? I thought that all you could get was 4.88's and 5.37's for the Dana 135.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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Cangim,

Yes.

Pop
 
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