That offers no hard facts at all. if anything means you dont know.

Again, when you add if at all to the end of that, it means you have no idea.

Look harder, then you might see others.

No you wont. Dont do a body lift and dont ghetto rig anything and you will be fine.

Basically isn't the same thing. Hockey pucks dry out and crack and leace you with no body spacers. Sound like a good idea right?


So basically body lifts are from hell and are akin to Uncle Adolf and have been known to spawn various diseases such as the Asian Bird Flu as well as the first known types of cancer.

Random question for Amish77, but do they have body lifts for horse carriages?

 

i don't care who you are, thats some funny S#%^ right there!!!! LMAO

 

sorryif my post came across as flaming... it wasnt. its just body lifts are less than suitable for anything that travels over 5 mph, and homemade bodylifts arent suitable for anything that moves.

Perhaps Ive been spending too much time on Pirate4x4...

 

raw, very good points you made there but dont you realize you are only wasting your time? i mean if they are going to argue at all about a BODY LIFT then you should know they are the hard-headed, just wanna argue type b/c they dont know any better!

i like the statement "i have seen body lift kits and they are the same as hockey puck material" lol wow

-cutts-

 

I agree with you 100%, but Im doing it for the person asking the question. I dont want him to take that ****'s advice and lift his truck only to end up killing someone or even multiple people later. Seriously.
I know you know that and the dangers involved Cutts, but they dont.

 

haven't heard of them drying out, raw. Got any evidence of that? and furthermore. I've seen the pucks used and they appear to work just fine to me. I guess I could see them drying out, but no faster than the stock rubber mounts. Really I swear this isn't a dangerous or stupid way to do this. I've seen it done multiple times, and it works just fine. Given that a kit isn't that expensive if you don't want a hassle then go and get it. Like I said b4 I was just giving an option. I see a lot of guys that think if it dosen't some in some kit that a guy is selling you then it must be crap and they start making up all kinds of reasons why it must be crap. Yeah the pucks might not be as good as an engineered kit, but this is a body lift kit, not a drivetrain modification, so how complex does it have to be?

And raw it's only a flame if you don't offer answers, so how about backing your thoughts that I'm wrong instead of just saying that I'm wrong. Just because the guys here back you because it's the safe option dosen't make me wrong. Hows about some hard facts to the contrary, like for example newspaper articles of people getting killed from a rotten body lift, or a schematic of the forces that I'm missing on the mounting system, anything at all to back yourself up, and I'd be cool with your statements. I don't mind being wrong, you just have to prove that you're right.

Say what you want about my love of quality furniture, barns, and hatred of buttons, hockey pucks will work as a body lift system.

 

Ive never heard of anyone getting killed but i have heard of people who rolled their truck and the body came off die to the body lift. and its not that i am saying pucks arent as good because they arent professional and are homemade and dont cost a lot, im saying that first, ive heard of people who had them get dry-rot and second, all body lifts blow.
I am personally all for custom made lifts. they are cheaper, are built to your needs, and often work better than a production lift. But a body lift is ba and a ghetto-rigged body lift is worse. I guarantee many people here will back me up on this...

 

on the contrary.... a lot of us HATE kits and would rather piece our own 'kits' together.

see you're missing the point.... you are arguing that hockey pucks make for a cheap but reliable body lift, which sadly i can somewhat agree. however the point is that the whole idea of a body lift is GHEY!

using a single hockey puck is one thing.... when you start suggesting stacking pucks on each other is totally different, thats worse than stacking blocks

and what the hell does quality furniture, barns, and hatred of buttons have to do with anything in this thread?

-cutts-

 

I dont know but i think thats what he is talking about. I didnt know the amish liked chairs and tables

 

He could do a shackle flip in the rear, and maybe get some 6-8" lift springs from something else. I don't usually advocate coil spacers, but it was the only thing I could actually find for his application.

 

a coil spacer is still a better option than a body lift... my cousin had a 88 ford ranger that was a pavement queen... i can't remember all the specs on it but he was running 33x12.50 tires and had a 3 inch body lift. to get at the point- his girlfriend at the time was driving it and forgot to stop at the bright red light and pulled out in front of a transit bus-and they aren't noted for stopping ability- so the ranger got t-boned, which in turn sheared the bolts for the cab and bed when the lift blocks tried to tip over as the body moved away from impact.. this wouldn't have been too bad except that the bed didn't stay put. it swung around on one bolt that held on in the rear corner of the bed and when the bed came around it pasted 2 teenage girls standing on the sidewalk waiting to cross the street. in all fairness though- the cab stayed on the frame and she got outta the truck with no injuries. the same couldn't be said for the teenagers- one had a broken arm and cheekbone, the other had broken ribs and mutiple internal injuries and was in critical care or almost 3 weeks.. she lost her short term memory and acquired a speech impediment.. my cousin has never been the same since then. he drives bone stock vehicles and spent thousands of dollars on a therapist to try and get over his guilt.. just some more food for thought on body lifts...

 

wow! that REALLY sucks!

-cutts-

 

> would i need to replace my body mounts if i'm going to do my body lift or is it just fine like that

No, but, I would replace them with poly because they are usually shot and the body mounts attached to the frame are rotted under the rubber bushings. The reason is Ford decided not to put weep holes there, so that is where the water (and salt) collects and and it rots out between the metal for the rubber mount and the steel mount itself.

As for the wisdom of doing a body lift on a BII. I have done it for clearance and it makes working on the engine and transfer case much easier. The James Duff is a nice kit. 2" max, even then there are some shifter issues.

As someone that has owned three BIIs and taken them off road, imo, you might as well skip the body lift and do a correct suspension lift. You will be much better off in the long run if your BII is more then a mall crawler.

One important reason is body flex, the body is prone to ripping along the body seams on the driver's side. Been there, done that. You go put the body on stiff stilts and the first thing that will go when you flex the body is the seam on the driver's side. What really stinks is when it happens under the rear pass. seat (left to right) because there is no way to weld it without removing the gas tank unless you like the word BOOM.

If you are running 5" of lift you should have enough room for 33s. If not, get a sawzall and take some off the front fenders. They even sell fiberglass fenders already rolled for you to fit larger tires.

If you are putting tires larger then 33s on a stock BII, what can I say except that I can't imagine it surviving off-road. I have broken (twisted) front axle shafts with just with P235s.

 

ok, so body lifts are ghey, but I thought that the guy was already set on one. and I'll agree that stacking the hockey pucks isn't a great idea. heck it's more like a really bad idea. I'm still not convinced on the dry rotting, but hey I've been wrong b4. Any lift will increase the chances of a roll, and any lift will be dealing with extra stresses that could easily cause breakages in a rollover. Off- roading is dangerous, and that's what makes it fun.

The amish are known for a few things, not driving cars, making fine furniture the right way using hardwoods, and in some cases going so far in thier hatred of technology that they will tie their jackets together with ribbons instead of using buttons.

My being called amish came from a girl I knew in high school. I had just moved to SC from PA and all she had seen of PA was amish country so of course I must be amish. the name stuck, and now I don't mind using it. (plus it is a little funny to be getting car advise from an amish)

 

NEVER USE HOCKEY PUCKS FOR BODY MOUNTS EVER PERIOD!

Alright i've played ice hockey for 15 years and hockey pucks are hard rubber, and if you get an old one (saya couple years) a good wrist shot on net that bounces off the post will take a nice chunk outta that puck. Now in body mounts, you are going to have a what 3/4-1/2" hole drilled in there i'm guessing, and a good percent of the time drilling a hole through a hockey puck is going to form some smal cracks, and once you toss in the side to side/front to back/compressional forces a hockey puck ain't going to last to long, esspically in colder weather and a couple years down the road.

Now in my eyes they only proper way to do a body lift is to actually relocate the metal body mount further up the frame and add an extra support or two.

But the question is, what is this body lift needed for? If you need some extra clearence for a v-8 swap or tranny/tc then yeah do what you have to do, but do it the right way, relocate the mounts, or if you don't have the feb skills get the smallest kit that will give you the clearence you need. Now if it is for additional tire clearence a saw-all will do a much better job, as not only will you get the tire clearence you need, but the fender radius will fit the tire 100% better, and no more worries of cuttin a tire at full stuff.