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The cv joint has failed. I am gaining experience working on this van, but have never tried anything like replacing a half shaft. I don't have any fancy tools...just typical sockets, box wrenches and the like. I can rent/buy as necessary. I do not have a lift, but I do have jack stands. Is this a job that a novice like myself should consider taking on? I have a Chilton's manual and have downloaded the cd for the '93. After searching this forum I see that this is about a 1 hour job for a pro. I could save about $200 doing this job myself.
Are there any pictures online of this job being done? What peculiar items should I be aware of? Chilton simply says do this and do that without commenting on the nuances of these tasks.
the Ford Service gives great pictorials of exactly what to do under Service-Driveline-Half shafts-Removal
hub removal puller and axle shaft nut socket can be borrowed from many parts stores> Autozone etc
this article gives you the general idea and techniques with special tips-how to torque axle hub nut when finished without 200 lb expensive torque wrench
In looking for a replacement cv half shaft, I need to know the production date of the van and the drive shaft style. I know that the van was produced in late 1990 (prior to 4/11/91), but I don't know if it is a u-joint style or cv style driveshaft. Does anyone know?
The INNER portion of the halfshaft is a conventional u-joint on your model. (Order the one listed as "early" or "prior to 4/91") Changing out the halfshaft is not that difficult and requires no special tools or pullers other than a long (24" or more) breaker bar and a 30mm deepwell socket to remove the axle nut. Most part stores will loan the socket. Replacing the axle nuts requires a torque of around 180-200 ft/lbs but few torque wrenches go that high in a conventional 1/2" drive configuration. Mine goes to only 150 but I simply measured over the same length that 30-40 more ft/lbs would be and marked that spot with a magic marker. Otherwise, its just a "get-dirty-and-grunt" type of repair job. There are several posts on this forum about replacing the halfshafts that would be worth your time to review before starting.
In looking for a replacement cv half shaft, I need to know the production date of the van and the drive shaft style. I know that the van was produced in late 1990 (prior to 4/11/91), but I don't know if it is a u-joint style or cv style driveshaft. Does anyone know?
Thanks again!
Here are pictures of the cv half shafts before 8/91 and after. Cut and paste the link into your web browser or look in the www.RockAuto.com catalog under Drivetrain and hit the More Info button to see pictures. Cardone CV half shafts are around $65 at www.RockAuto.com.
Congratulate me! I got the old halfshaft out and the new one in. I did choose the right style. Thank you autoparts for the pics, and also aerocolorado and 96_4wdr for the info.
I now have a couple of new questions relating to reassembly.
I detached the tie rod and the lower control arm ball joints. The lower control arm ball joint reattached ok, but I am having trouble with the tie rod ball joint.
As I turn the nut on the tie rod stud, the stud spins in the ball joint. What can I do to hold the stud in place as I thread on the nut? I certainly hope that the stud spinning in the ball joint is not a sign that I have screwed up the ball joint and must now replace something. If so, what and how?
Chilton does not address the installation of a cv-halfshaft with a u-joint connection. Upon closer inspection, I don't think it addresses cv halfshafts at all. What torque should be used for the 4 bolts attaching the u-joint end of the halfshaft to the shaft from the transfer case?
Thanks again for the help... I could not do this without you guys!
You might want to get the Haynes manual too and not just because www.RockAuto.com sells them. I think you will find that Chilton covers some repairs better than Haynes and Haynes will cover some repairs better than Chilton. I use both manuals for my '80s Fords.
Haynes Part # 36004 (Ford Aerostar '86 to '97) found under Literature at www.RockAuto.com for $14.30.
Possibly too late to the party, but since the tie rod sits in a tapered opening, you can carefully tap the tie rod end down into the opening with a plastic/rubber hammer. This should provide enough friction to keep the shaft from turning until you can get the nut to fully seat the shaft. You should be able to turn down the castellated nut by hand. If you can't, then follow copper's advice and run the threads with a die to restore them.
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