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Pyro Install

Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #16  
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From: pawhuska,okla.
i used a cordless going pretty slow and had no problems. wish i had a tap handle but instead used a 12pt. socket. worked ok but squirilly
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:29 PM
  #17  
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
I used a step drill bit for the hole, worked very good and didn't have to change bits. I used a magnet too and then sucked out with shop vac.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:30 PM
  #18  
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yes be sure to get your tap started straight and check your thread depth because pipe thread is a tapered thread that actually seals on the thread. that is why the sensor will not bottom out into your exhaust manifold
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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when i was finished drilling and tapping my manifold, i took my shop vac and sealed the area around it and sucked out all the shavings. when i was done, i took the top off and looked in the cart of dust and dirt out of curiousity, and it had a fine layer of soot on the top. along with the shavings, it sucked some of the carbon out too.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2006 | 10:06 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Muktown
yes be sure to get your tap started straight and check your thread depth because pipe thread is a tapered thread that actually seals on the thread. that is why the sensor will not bottom out into your exhaust manifold
If it's tapered how do you know when to stop cutting the thread? Keep measuring until you just get the depth of the pipe?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:56 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by marvinlong
i used a cordless going pretty slow and had no problems.
I did dip the bit in light bearing grease and all the shavings pretty well stuck to it. Used about 3 bits working up. But then I am paraniod. No sweat.

Frank
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:58 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by rmilchman
If it's tapered how do you know when to stop cutting the thread? Keep measuring until you just get the depth of the pipe?
Yes. The best way is to remove the tap after cutting in a few turns and experimentally thread the fitting into the manifold. It needs to start to feel snug at about three turns in. It will be nice and tight by the time you get to the shoulder.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by missouguy
I did dip the bit in light bearing grease and all the shavings pretty well stuck to it. Used about 3 bits working up. But then I am paraniod. No sweat.

Frank
Good idea! It should keep some shavings out of your face too!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 09:13 AM
  #24  
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
Originally Posted by missouguy
I did dip the bit in light bearing grease and all the shavings pretty well stuck to it. Used about 3 bits working up. But then I am paraniod. No sweat.

Frank
If you use grease, be careful not to get any excess grease in the pipe or the shavings might get stuck in the pipe rather than to the bit.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:30 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by rmilchman
If it's tapered how do you know when to stop cutting the thread? Keep measuring until you just get the depth of the pipe?
you want the probe tip about the center of your exhaust flow. the nut on your pyro will not be touching the manifold and you will see a couple of threads. i think mine is about three quarters up the the threads with the other quarter sticking out of the manifold
 
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:33 PM
  #26  
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From: Elkhorn, WI
Originally Posted by hink10
If you use grease, be careful not to get any excess grease in the pipe or the shavings might get stuck in the pipe rather than to the bit.

i agree i just drilled mine dry and straight up so all the shavings fell down and then i stuck a telescoping magnet into the pipe and got the rest of them then i took a shop vac to the hole. i know its a little paranoid and the shavings that are left will just blow right by the turbo but i diddnt want to take a chance
 
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