Emissions Testing
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Emissions Testing
Will my 95 F150 failed the sniffer test today. Nothing is wrong with it but it failed anyway. It passed 3 of the 4 variables. Carbon at idle was 10 points too high. It is supposed to be 1.20 and it was 1.30 I think. How can I remedy this? Basically everything except for the engine has been replaced. How can they expect a truck that is 11 years old and has 220000 miles on it to not have a higher carbon out put than when it was new. I have 15 days to go test agian with out having to pay the 30 bucks. I am going to try a product made by CRC Industries. It is called G2P Guaranteed to Pass Emissions. Has anyone used it before? If so what were your results? Here is a link to the CRC product. Also, they guy at the inspection station said that just as many pass as fail the sniffer test for the pre 96 non OBDII. This means the OBDI or EEC-IV. Correct? That means that every other vehicle fails. If that is the case then this whole emissions deal is a crock. 
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=05063&S=N
http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?PN=05063&S=N
Last edited by TexasGuy001; Feb 7, 2006 at 07:23 AM.
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If you're talking about CO that's carbon monoxide.
It's the result of inefficient combustion. Which means you are probably running lean.
Check all your vacuum hoses, PCV valve, etc. Do you have a MAF sensor? If so, clean it. Did you change the coil AND plug wires AND plugs? All filters? Even a fuel filter can do it.
art k.
It's the result of inefficient combustion. Which means you are probably running lean.
Check all your vacuum hoses, PCV valve, etc. Do you have a MAF sensor? If so, clean it. Did you change the coil AND plug wires AND plugs? All filters? Even a fuel filter can do it.
art k.
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I'll replace the PCV valve and clean the MAF sensor. The coil is a MSD TFI Blaster coil and it has 9mm Ford Racing plug wires. I'll put in a new set of plugs. The distributor cap and rotor are new MSD. So is the fuel filter.
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Not sure about where you are, but if you show the truck has been worked on, and still can't pass emissions, you might be able to get a waiver for the year.
Running too rich can cause high CO too, but then you usually fail for HC's too.
Running too rich can cause high CO too, but then you usually fail for HC's too.
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From: Kuna ID
I work part time in a parts store, and we have customers who swear by that G2P stuff. Never tried it myself though. Are you running regular 87 octane fuel? I have people come in all the time wondering why their car failed smog with such good 91 octane fuel. The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burns, which means more gas is coming out the tailpipe. Higher octane is meant for higher compression motors. I learned this stuff by reading the back of a box of G2P. Once I read that, I knew why my stang was failing.
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Originally Posted by Sycostang67
I work part time in a parts store, and we have customers who swear by that G2P stuff. Never tried it myself though. Are you running regular 87 octane fuel? I have people come in all the time wondering why their car failed smog with such good 91 octane fuel. The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burns, which means more gas is coming out the tailpipe. Higher octane is meant for higher compression motors. I learned this stuff by reading the back of a box of G2P. Once I read that, I knew why my stang was failing.
Sycostang67, you got reputation points for that one
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From: Running Springs CA
Retard the timing. Both CO and HC read higher the more advanced the timing. We got mom's 1987 Dodge to pass by backing off the timing.
Jim
Jim
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High CO is usually caused by a rich mixture, not lean.
And, one more time...
Higher octane gas DOES NOT necessarily (and often doesn't) burn slower! Switching to a lower octane fuel may, and probably will (slightly), help your situation, but not because it burns slower. It IS less likely to detonate, but this is a different phenomenon than burning.
Switching to the lower octane may help though, because it generally has a lower specific gravity and will lean out the mixture a bit.
Besides the pcv filter and such Krewat first suggested, get some BG fuel system cleaner, there's other stuff that works also but it does a good job of cleaning injectors. Most car dealerships carry it. The stuff in the link you provided may help, I don't know.
And, one more time...
Higher octane gas DOES NOT necessarily (and often doesn't) burn slower! Switching to a lower octane fuel may, and probably will (slightly), help your situation, but not because it burns slower. It IS less likely to detonate, but this is a different phenomenon than burning.
Switching to the lower octane may help though, because it generally has a lower specific gravity and will lean out the mixture a bit.
Besides the pcv filter and such Krewat first suggested, get some BG fuel system cleaner, there's other stuff that works also but it does a good job of cleaning injectors. Most car dealerships carry it. The stuff in the link you provided may help, I don't know.
Last edited by tdister; Feb 7, 2006 at 02:33 PM.
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Originally Posted by tdister
Higher octane gas DOES NOT necessarily (and often doesn't) burn slower! Switching to a lower octane fuel may, and probably will (slightly), help your situation, but not because it burns slower. It IS less likely to detonate, but this is a different phenomenon than burning.
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Does anyone think putting the regular old paper air filter back in would help any? I have a new one that I keep for the days that I clean my K&N. That way I can drive my truck while the K&N dries. I was thinking it might lower the amount of air going through the mass air sensor and that might get the computer to lower the amount of fuel being sent through the engine.
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Does anyone know what I should use to clean the mass air flow sensor? Can I use the throttle body/intake spray cleaner? Also, I replaced my stock 190 thermostat with a 180. Would it help with emissions if I put a 190 back in?
Last edited by TexasGuy001; Feb 10, 2006 at 03:56 AM.
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Definitely put the stock thermostat back in. The cooler temps may just be what is increasing the CO!
And yeah, post the results of the test, if you have them.
Clean the MAF with brake cleaner. Something that will completely evaporate. I'm not sure throttle-body cleaner doesn't leave something behind.
And yeah, post the results of the test, if you have them.
Clean the MAF with brake cleaner. Something that will completely evaporate. I'm not sure throttle-body cleaner doesn't leave something behind.
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The stock thermostat is a 190 right? Yeah they gave me a printout. Here is what it shows. I tried to make this in the form of a chart, but after I post it it looks like this. Is it legible like this? Basically, the problem is this the CO at idle needs to be 1.20 or less and it was reading 1.31. Everything else was inside the parameters.
RPM 2450 RPM 817 idle
Standard Readings Result Standard Readings Result
HC 220 6 Pass 220 54 Pass
CO 1.20 0.65 Pass 1.20 1.31 Fail
CO2 14.9 13.8
O2 0.2 1.1
NOx 0.0 0.0
Dilution >6 15.6 >6 15.1
Gas Cap Integrity PASS
Overall FAIL
RPM 2450 RPM 817 idle
Standard Readings Result Standard Readings Result
HC 220 6 Pass 220 54 Pass
CO 1.20 0.65 Pass 1.20 1.31 Fail
CO2 14.9 13.8
O2 0.2 1.1
NOx 0.0 0.0
Dilution >6 15.6 >6 15.1
Gas Cap Integrity PASS
Overall FAIL
Last edited by TexasGuy001; Feb 10, 2006 at 07:58 PM.