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clutch/transmission problem over night

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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:27 PM
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Question clutch/transmission problem over night

i am driving a 2000 ford ranger with the 2.5L and a 5 sp. manual trans. it has 104,000 miles already but has run like new until recently. i parked it in a garage one night, and the next morning, it started, but there seemed to be no resistance in the clutch, and i was unable to shift gears. i topped off the fluid for the clutch, and drained and replaced the transmission fluid, however the working conditions werent ideal, and i may not have pot enough fluid in the trans. anyhow, there is still no resistance in the clutch, nor can i shift gears. any ideas or common experiences? ive never heard of a clutch or trans going out over night.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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Check the firewall behind the pedal, i just spent weeks with no pedal and found major firewall cracking that allowed the clutch cylinder to move with the clutch out into the engine compartment, it took welding and a bracket.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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was the clutch reservoir empty or low when you put fluid in it? if so, it might be the slave cylinder. I wouldn't think a truck of that age would have trouble with the firewall cracking but never say never.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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The fluid in the reservoir was at the step but i topped it off just to be sure. i havent had a chance to check yet, but im thinking that Garyinreno may be right, i havent checked it out yet, but there has been a noticeable amount of air blowing on my feet, and out of the defroster vents when i am driving, and the ac off. but the fluid was at the right level.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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I second that.

Take a look at the linkages and firewall; it doesn't cost anything to look. But, if it all looks good, it is probably a hydraulic problem. If the clutch fluid reservoir was low, it is probably the slave. Since the trans. has to come out to replace the slave, might as well do the whole clutch while you're in there.

And, make sure that the transmission is filled ASAP. It should be filled up to the bottom of the fill-hole on the side.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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well i went and checked the things that yall suggested, and i didnt see anything, although it was too dark to see the firewall very well. however, i tried it again, and there was no resistance in the clutch for the first 2/3 but as i continue to depress it, there is resistance towards the end. when i pushed it as far in as it would go, harder than normal, i was able to get it into gear. i drove it around the parking garage for a bit, and took it out on some side streets. the truck takes off faster and sooner when i let off the clutch than normal, and still loses resistance very quickly. i am thinking that possibly that the clutch may not be disengaging completely. could this be the case? and what can i do about it?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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That's what mine did exactly, get some light and look under the padding inside the truck above the pedal on the firewall, i had 40 stress fractures and when it went it would never go into gear, unless i put tesnion under the hood towards the pedal. It cost me $400 last month to have it welded and bolted. Now it runs faster and smoother, and for months i thought my clutch was going out and now it feels brand new after the firewall was fixed.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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you will have a clear view of the firewall and rod going through the firewall if you remove the plastic molded wheel well. there also could be air in the system. try to bleed it.
 
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