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Stuck injector

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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 12:53 PM
  #1  
Mountain Polock's Avatar
Mountain Polock
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Stuck injector

New to diesels but learning fast. Need some advice on removal of #7 injector.
Replacing all the injectors but this one can be screwed out but stops and I am afarid to try to pry it out. Have tried the PB and screwed it in and out to try and break loose what ever is holding it in. Any and all suggestions would be welcomed.

Thanks

Ken
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:20 PM
  #2  
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Hamberger
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From: Ladner, British Columbia
Try soaking it with WD40, point the straw at the treads and keep soaking it, let it sit for a while and try screwing it out again.

The problem is most likely carbon built-up. Maybe it had leaked past the copper washer and packed full of carbon between the injector body and the head.

If all else fails, sometimes brute force is the only way to get them out. A friend of mine once had the weight of the entire engine on a comealong trying to get one out, I would not recommend that, it is a surefire way to get yourself hurt.

PS, all the injectors are the same, nothing special about #7 cylinder. Have a look at the other injectors to see what your are looking at pulling out of the hole.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 01:31 PM
  #3  
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Mountain Polock
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Thanks, have been trying to soak with Power Buster, don't want to have it break off. The other injectors have all came out as a piece of cake but I suspect this is the one that has caused all my problems. Will keep soaking for a wile before I try the crowbar.

Ken.

This is a 89 7.3, non turbo, FYI. Don't know why it didn't show up on my post.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #4  
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PLC7.3
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Just remember to clean out the cylinder from all the liquid put in it before starting. First bring that cylinder to TDC so not much more carbon/pieces etc fall in.

If you have duct tape, tape the 1" socket to the injector then a small extension to the socker. If you have an air ratchet you can reverse the rotation (out) and pull gently while wearing any carbon holding it in place away. If the injector should separate 2 parts+ then remove all parts free and chip away at the carbon usijng a vaccum to draw dust/pieces out.....removing the GP helps allow air to circulate.

This will help.........

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand. Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left(passenger) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side, front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #5  
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Mountain Polock
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Thanks PLC7.3, I will try that, was also thinking maybe turning it by hand it may have enough combustion to pop it loose. Was wondering how to get it to TDC and you nailed that for me.

Ken
 
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