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I know this is not going to be any easy job but I have to remove the manifolds off my truck. How much of a pain is this going to be? Are there Any tricks or info that I need to know before I start. I do all of my own work so I have an idea what I am in for. I have a F250LD 4x4 5.4lt with 120,000 miles. Manifolds have quite a bit of rust on them and so do the bolts holding them to the head. The reason I am removing them is because the studs that hold the Y-pipe at the ball flange have rusted completely gone. ON BOTH EXHAUST MANIFOLDS (just my luck).Truck know has HUGE exhaust leak. I am just going to replace the with either new manifolds or headers not sure yet.
I can only comment on the 4.6, it was not too bad I took off the front tires and went to it. I got rid of the manifolds before they became a problem and dropped Gibson headers on it, 130K later I have not had any issues with leaking gaskets, but i do not like the way they look (rusty) Gibson should be shot for not selling these with a coating that prevents rust.
Have some different way to get at some studs/nuts ie.- swivels and what not. The control arm mount (I think) is right in the way on the RH side, in the middle of the manifold. How about keeping us updated, and let us know what type manifold you use. Have fun! Rob.
We took the passenger side manifold off of my '99 F-150 last month and it wasnt too bad. I took mine off because I had 2 broken studs and because I have the infamous headgasket oil leak on that side. We replaced the studs and put some high-temp silicone where it leaks to try and fix the leak (didnt work).
On my truck, the nuts were rusted so bad that they were pretty much rounded off, so we took a smaller socket and pounded it on with a hammer and they came right off.
Just make sure you buy a couple of extra studs, because its very much possible that you will break a stud or 2 in the process.
octane, how long did it take you to do the job. I have the "startup ticking" that I believe is a broken stud and need to do the same job. Is it a whole day job or just a couple of hours?
Ihave this job too, as soon as it warms up outside. I think I read somewhere here that those manifld nuts take a 12mm socket. I realize stuff changes as it gets rusty, but 12mm seems small, I can get 13mm on the nuts, but that seems "loose". Were they originally 12mm ? I tried to trial fit a socket, 12mm will not go on any of them. I have a set of those "easy" out sockets from sears that really work well, I'll probably just hammer one of those on to each nut. Does any body know the original socket size on those nuts? Thanks.............. Spotty...........
octane, how long did it take you to do the job. I have the "startup ticking" that I believe is a broken stud and need to do the same job. Is it a whole day job or just a couple of hours?
Well, I had my father help me. He's a mechanic with over 30 years of experience, so he knows all the little tricks and shortcuts.
It took us about 4 or 5 hours to do the job in total. Its not too bad, but if I hadnt had my father's help I know it would have taken me MUCH longer.
Octane, how did you get the broken studs out and how tough did they come out? Did you break any additional studs taking the nuts off?
Thanks........... Spotty....
Vise grips. I sprayed the heck out of everything with JB-80 (any other penetrating lube will work) before I started.
I didnt not break any additional studs while removing the nuts.
Thanks for the info Octane, feel more confident all the time about doing this. Will get at it next month, I use my truck in my business so my down time has to be short and productive.
Spotty......
The job isnt as terrifying as it seems. Just make sure you bring your patience and a case of beer.
If you get frustrated with the job, just take a break, pound back a beer or 2 and give 'er another go.