Ok, towing 101~

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I need to tow about 15000 #’s from Huron Ohio to Duluth <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:City w:st=[/img]Duluth</st1:City> <st1:State w:st=" /><ST1:place w:st="on">MN</ST1:place>. (Boat & Trailer)

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Do I need to get hung up on manufacturers spec’s?

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Or, can I just find a $10K vehicle like a 98’ 3500 series Diesel to tow with?

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The trailer is a tongue type rated at about 7-8% of the 15K#’s

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Why does a SRW have a better towing rate than DRW?

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Do I need a DRW? Is it better for towing?

Do I need a Diesel?

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Can I cheat?

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Can I add my vehicle weight to the total capacity and then that will give me an approx towing (real) rate?

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Sorry for all the newbie ?’s

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B2

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P.S. I doesn’t matter what truck manufacturer.

P.S.S. Is there an accurate chart for towing specs for all trucks and years?

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I am not a towing expert but I have towed with 5 different trailers and two different trucks, over maybe 20K miles in many conditions.

Soooo...

Legally you have to get hung up on mfg specs. A cop having a slow day may want to discuss this with you. If you have an accident, you may be found to be at fault if you are over spec.

Some of the diesels have a pretty surprising low tow rating due to the weight of the engine eating up the payload. So check the door sticker for GVWR, GAWR and probably the manual for GCWR.

7-8% is an unusually low tongue weight, but then I never towed a boat. Usually you see between 10 and 15% tongue weight. A trailer can get squirrely if the tongue is light. Make sure about that light percentage, sounds funny.

Not sure why or if a SRW has a higher rating but there was a discussion on this website in this forum I think just a month back.

The engine will have a bearing on the total or GCWR capacity. 15,000 trailer is a pretty good load so if the rest of the truck is rated properly, the diesel may be a better choice. I forget what the rating is for a gasser but 15000 sounds over limit to me on gas.

As always, you can cheat but if you get caught... Also if you are grossly over rating, you endanger yourself and others. Also being over rating will wear things out a bit faster. Grossly over rating can break parts.

A ballpark estimate of how much trailer you can tow is... GCWR(Gross Combined Weight Rating) minus GVWR(Gross vehicle Weight Rating) equals how much trailer you can tow.

If you are close to ratings you need to take a good look at the GAWR, Gross Axle Weight Ratings front and back, versus how much load is on each truck axle plus the Tongue weight. To be sure you should get on a public scale and check each vehicle weight loaded(loads can surprise you), each axle weight, tongue weight.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

You can find the 99-05 ratings here: http://www.trailerlife.com/output.cfm?id=42175

About the only trucks with that sort of listed tow ratings are DRW. I haven't seen any where DRW is less than SRW.

 

Hey thanks,

So (in theory) could I use a truck rated at 12.5K if I have fudge factor with gvw?

In other words would a 1999+/- F350 drw w/7.9 do it?

Thanks again for the info

B2

Only towing once from ohio then maybe 50 miles a year.

 

Thanks for the link!!!!!!!

 

Since this is a one time trip, why don't you just hire it moved?

 

Paid for the trailer to be made $6K vs $3K to tow here...

Just would rather put th cash into the trailer vs. paying someone to haul...

B2

 

B2 -

7-8% tongue weight is about right for a boat/trailer rig; TT's run 10-15%.

How wide is that boat? Reason I'm asking is, some boats that big/heavy are over 8 1/2' wide, which would require an "overwide" permit to tow thru some (maybe all) states. Just a thought............

Steve

 

SRW's typically have a hair better towing ratings just due to the weight of the extra tires. On the other hand the DRW rear axle is then capable of supporting twice the weight, plus, if a single tire on a side goes out on you its not such a big deal. The DRW's are preferred when towing many travel trailers due to having better lateral stability in the presence of side winds. You pays your money and takes your chances.

 

I don't see any reason as to why you couldn't pull it with a truck like this. You would get hung up on the weights, but I certainly think the truck is up to the task if you can keep that thristy beast fueled.

 

Thank you -as you can see I'm new to hauling heavy wieght.

B2

 

Most hitchs that came on a truck a few years was good for 10000 lbs. I think they is a new class out now that is rated up to 15000. I think its a 2 1/2" receiver instead of the 2". You will need to check it out to make sure the hitch will carry the load along with the truck. The ball will also have to be rated for the load. The size of the receiver is one reason for several years you could tow a bigger 5th wheel than a tow behind.

 

Don't get all caught up in max weights. In my opinion, you can safely go over the trucks rating without hurting anything as long as you don't overdo it. People do this all the time and don't even realize it, especially with 1/2 tons. I seriously overloaded my 1 ton SRW and had no problems. I took it easy on speed, drove during the cooler part of the day, watched my tranny temps, and all was well.

Ratings on hitches also get no notice, usually. People don't pay any attentions to these either. That being said, you aren't likely to break anything outright. Its more likely that you would see the damage being done in bent parts, then breaking a pin or something. After all, most equalizing hitches I have seen, including mine, are rated for only 10k. By the way, you NEED one of these. Also, you should buy the sway control too. You will be amazed at how much better you will tow with one. Especially when a semi trailer goes flying by (or you by him). Plus, if you do overload, its easier on the truck as you are putting load on the front axle as well, assuming you read the instructions and do it right.

As far as the law, in my experiance, if you get pulled over at a weigh station, they won't bother with whether or not the truck (power unit) is overloaded. They will check to see if you are registered for the amount of weight you got. It gets expensive if you aren't so be sure you are. They will also give you the once over for chains, brakes, proper connection, etc. As long as you look like you know what you are doing, they won't get picky. BTW, I'm talking weekend hauler, average joe here, not tractor trailer guys.

Finally, as you are new to trailers, leave plenty of distance. Set the brake control right. Turn your lights on. Slow down if its windy. Don't let any one tailgate you, let them pass.

Enjoy the trip. BTW, you will enjoy it more with a diesel.

Matt

 

And dont get caught with too small of a license. In IL 16000 gvwr is the max for a class d. Im not shure for other states.

 

Is it your boat?
Personal RV's are exempt from just about any restrictions in most states.
I have seen many trucks and cars pulling boats and campers that were way to big for the tow vehicle. They drive right by the scales without even stopping.
Regular passenger plates (8000 pounds cost 28 dollars per year) on a F250 gasser towing a 15,000 pound boat with regular operators license.

I tow work related cargo.
So here I pull into the scales with 12,000 pounds of skid steer loader behind my diesel.
20,000 pound B plates that cost 135 per year
Insured for 20,000 pounds GCVW.
Class A CDL because the trailer is over 10,000 pounds.
DOT number on the truck because it is registered for over 10,000 pounds.

And there goes that guy with the 34 foot fifth wheel blowing right on by the scales while they check my fire extinguisher date and charge.