Utility Shell Light Wiring & Paint Match
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Near STL MO
Utility Shell Light Wiring & Paint Match
2004 Ford Ranger FX Level II
Hi all. Haven't been here in a loooong while!
Bought and painted a used utility shell. I'm trying to avoid taking it to a shop to have the brakelight hooked up if I can do it myself. Not sure how to wire it though.
One shop said they could tap in at the light, another shop said they would have to run a wire up to the cab at the pedal or some crap. I'd prefer to just tap into the wires at the taillight. I removed the lamp assembly and there are three wires going into the assembly (aside from the wires going into the actual reverse lamp).
Also, there is one work light on the inside of the shell. Can I also hook this into the tail lamp assembly? I don't mind having to have the parking/lights on for the work light to work. There are two wires (red and black) coming from both the upper brake light, and the interior work light of the shell.
I guess I am just concerned about overloading the circuit or something. Any ideas? thanks.
Oh...one more thing. I painted it to match (Sonic Blue). The match looks really close except in a certain type of lighting....primarily at night under street lights.....it looks like much more of a brighter blue whereas the truck looks a bit more "purple-ish" or "midnightish". I shot the base (Nason) over a grey urethane primer. Could they possibly use a different color primer.....or even a "pre" color basecoat.....perhaps a dark blue? Or should I have gone with the more expensive Chromabase as opposed to the cheaper Nason (the clown at the apint shop didn't say anything about Nason not matching as well).
thanks again
Hi all. Haven't been here in a loooong while!
Bought and painted a used utility shell. I'm trying to avoid taking it to a shop to have the brakelight hooked up if I can do it myself. Not sure how to wire it though.
One shop said they could tap in at the light, another shop said they would have to run a wire up to the cab at the pedal or some crap. I'd prefer to just tap into the wires at the taillight. I removed the lamp assembly and there are three wires going into the assembly (aside from the wires going into the actual reverse lamp).
Also, there is one work light on the inside of the shell. Can I also hook this into the tail lamp assembly? I don't mind having to have the parking/lights on for the work light to work. There are two wires (red and black) coming from both the upper brake light, and the interior work light of the shell.
I guess I am just concerned about overloading the circuit or something. Any ideas? thanks.
Oh...one more thing. I painted it to match (Sonic Blue). The match looks really close except in a certain type of lighting....primarily at night under street lights.....it looks like much more of a brighter blue whereas the truck looks a bit more "purple-ish" or "midnightish". I shot the base (Nason) over a grey urethane primer. Could they possibly use a different color primer.....or even a "pre" color basecoat.....perhaps a dark blue? Or should I have gone with the more expensive Chromabase as opposed to the cheaper Nason (the clown at the apint shop didn't say anything about Nason not matching as well).
thanks again
Last edited by msova; Jan 31, 2006 at 06:04 AM. Reason: truck type
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
From: northeast PA
As for the third brake light I tapped in to the trucks brake light. I am not sure about the interior light, but it would seem to me that if you used the parking light you would have to have the parking lights on to use the light. Maybe a constant source of power would be better. Although you might want a second opinion I am not an expert. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,562
Likes: 4
From: South Jersey
I never had a cap but I can't believe they wouldn't have a plug that woulf plug into the spot for the 3rd brake light.
As far as the paint goes...I'm not a auto paint guy...but what your seeing is metamerism. Metamerism is normally caused by differences in the pigments in the paint. Since the paint is somewhat transparent any of the pigmented coats could have caused the problem.
As far as the paint goes...I'm not a auto paint guy...but what your seeing is metamerism. Metamerism is normally caused by differences in the pigments in the paint. Since the paint is somewhat transparent any of the pigmented coats could have caused the problem.
5th Wheeling
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 4
From: Near Spokane, WA
Ken's right about metamerism and it could be what you're seeing. However, I would put my money on the fact that you sprayed base over primer and not sealer. Sealer provides uniform color holdout and good adhesion for the base.
If your cap is fiberglass, then it still might not look the same even if the paint was exactly the same batch as used to paint your truck. Same holds true for painted plastic parts with sealer. Next time you're on a new car lot, look real close at the how the paint matches between the bumper covers and the fenders/quarters.
I work in the collision industry and we get this all the time, customers want an exact match when the car rolls out. Now I point out the mismatch when I write an estimate and tell the customer we will match the color as close as we can get it, but it won't be exact.
FWIW, when I painted the cap on my Ranger, I had to do it twice because the standard was too light even though the darker variation was too dark. I ended up splitting the difference between the two and it still doesn't match. Most people cant' even see it, but I can.
If your cap is fiberglass, then it still might not look the same even if the paint was exactly the same batch as used to paint your truck. Same holds true for painted plastic parts with sealer. Next time you're on a new car lot, look real close at the how the paint matches between the bumper covers and the fenders/quarters.
I work in the collision industry and we get this all the time, customers want an exact match when the car rolls out. Now I point out the mismatch when I write an estimate and tell the customer we will match the color as close as we can get it, but it won't be exact.
FWIW, when I painted the cap on my Ranger, I had to do it twice because the standard was too light even though the darker variation was too dark. I ended up splitting the difference between the two and it still doesn't match. Most people cant' even see it, but I can.
