Guys, I noticed my wait to start light comes on then goes out after about three seconds. I know it's not activate the GP's because it was like raising the dead trying to start it this morning. When it did start white smoke was bellowing out until it warmed up. Once it has ran for about 30 seconds the smoke clears up. and reatarts with no problems. Anybody have a clue where to start? Thanks!

 

I would start by checking the engine oil temperature sender. My Helminc manual states the the PCM will "bulb check" the WTS light but not energize the relay if the Oil temp is above 55C (131F). The other thing that it monitors is the barometric pressure, but that's built into the PCM and if it goes out = new PCM.

This copied from the manual:

The 7.3L diesel engine uses a glow plug system that preheats air in the combustion chamber to improve cold engine starting.

The system consists of:

l intake manifold glow plugs (12A342).

l glow plug relay (12A343).

l powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650).

l engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor.

l barometric pressure sensor (BARO sensor) (12A644).

The glow plug system is electronically controlled by the powertrain control module. If the temperature is below 55ºC (131ºF) the powertrain control module will energize the glow plugs immediately after the key is placed in the ON position. Then, depending on the readings from the engine oil temperature (EOT) sensor and the barometric pressure (BARO) sensor, the powertrain control module determines how long the glow plugs will be on.


Glow Plugs — PCM-Controlled

The intake manifold glow plugs are located in the cylinder heads (6049), under the valve covers (6582).

The glow plugs are self-regulating. If the engine oil temperature is above 55ºC (131ºF), the powertrain control module will bulb-check the WAIT TO START lamp but not energize the glow plug relay.

The powertrain control module protects the glow plugs by energizing them for short durations if the battery voltage is abnormally high.

The glow plug ON time varies from 0-120 seconds depending on battery voltage, engine oil temperature and barometric pressure.

On California vehicles the glow plug monitor system is part of the On-Board Diagnostics II (OBD II) System.

The glow plug monitor (GPM) system is designed to find failed glow plugs or failed wiring in the glow plug system.

The GPM system uses a low resistance shunt to conduct current to the left and right bank glow plugs.

Three sensing wires measure the voltage drops across the shunt when the glow plugs are operating. A failure in the glow plug system will set a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).

 

Thanks Kwikk! I know my batteries are on the way out, I wonder if that has anything to do with it? I'm gonna change them today (original batteries from 01).

Oh where is the engine oil temp sensor?

 

OK, I changed the batteries to the Optima Red's and it starts alot faster. The light cycled like it should on the first start after the batteries were installed. Now it's doing the same thing. Also it's now starting to idle rough. Last time it did this the fuel pump went out, but without the "wait to start" light acting up. I am in southern Louisiana where 32*f is rare, so the fuel can't be gelling.
The truck runs fine when driving, no power loss, no issues. After it's warmed up it started idiling high and shaking like a miss. I'm gonna check the fuel filter first. Anyone have any other ideas?

 

Rough idle, especially hot:
Could be caused by anti-foaming agent depletion, incorrect oil, or leak at the oil pump pickup tube.
Get the engine and oil hot and run up to 3300 RPM for three minutes. If the ICP reading goes above 1600 within the first thirty seconds of testing there could be a cracked pickup tube or missing seal. The pick-up tube can be checked by adding two quarts of oil to the crankcase and raising the rear of the vehicle approximately ten inches. If the ICP readings at 3300 RPM drop, then the pick-up tube is cracked or leaking.
If at the end of the three minute high RPM test the ICP readings are above 1400 for Federal or 1250 for California and Econoline or 1500 on 99.5, the anti-foaming agents are depleted from the oil or the wrong oil is being used

 

The wait to start light is independent of the glow plug system. Try replacing the relay for the GP's.

 

OK here's the update: The wts light still does not cycle like it should. White smoke on cold start. Not hard to start at all. (Hence the new batteries)
The truck runs normal until fully warmed up then it starts to idle close to 1k rpm. Then it starts idling rough, and missing. When you put in neutral it clears up but still idles high. When put back in gear it does it again.

The truck runs smooth when cruising and has plenty power also no miss when cruising. The gas pedal is alot more responsive or touchy.

Today I changed the ICP back to the original and checked the fuel filter for trash/or water. It also has a brand new GPR and IPR on it as well.

The truck is an 01 which just turned 70K, 80 hp Econo tune, Walker BTM, and 6637 filter.

Have not seen the first "CEL" either.

Thanks for any help!

 

Hmmm, it's starting to sound like you need to have an expert look at the truck. Someone who has an enhanced code scanner, not just a generic one. There's the standard P-codes that have to be available by legislation. Then there's the rest of the codes that only the proper equipment can read.

 

I have a friend that has one coming in this week. I was hoping for a quick fix, though. I have to say I think this truck is gone when it's fixed. With the milage for the trouble I can imagine what's coming if I keep it.

 

Have you tried cps???

 

CPS is about three months old. It's a brand new one from International. I changed the oil and the idle problem is solved. I took the advice from your post, dieselan250. I let it idle until it was at normal operating temp. then went drive it about 8 miles and the problem went away. I would have never thought the oil was in that bad of shape. I changed it in the summer, but it was less than 5K miles ago.

Now the problem is still there with the WTS light. The GP's aren't coming on from what I can tell. White smoke everywhere. The relay is a few months old, but that dosen't mean it didn't fail. Would a bad GPR stop the light from coming on for the whole cycle? Where should I start troubleshooting?

 

Your idle problem is a common occourance with the PSD, I am starting to learn. You are not the only person who has solved and idle problem with an oil change.
Live and learn.

 

I have a 2002 F-350 PSD Dually. I had the same problem with the wait to stop light going off quickly. I had NO other problems except that. I took it in to dealer and talked to head PSD mechanic. He said all glow plugs were powered and working. He called Ford and they said to do a PCU reprogram with updates. They also directed them to a service bulletin on the problem. It said to replace instrument cluster in dash for $400 plus bucks. Well to speed this post up he did the reprogram and said if I didn't care about the light going out and I had no further problems drop the idea of the instrument cluster replacement. So I did. I still had the problem, but within a week it went away. I did contact Ford though and told them that if they have a service bulletin on a problem they should fix the problem under warranty. You know the rest of the story. I think maybe the PCU reprogram did work though.

Hope this has helped. Good Luck......

 

check your glow plugs for integrity. simple test is to plug block heater in a night. if it starts fine in the morning and no white smoke---you know it is the glow plug system.

 

Yeah, I did plug it in and no smoke on start up. I changed the relay again. Still no luck. Is there a way I can hook up a switch to make the GP system activate? I thought I read that before.


Bronco, thanks for the advice, only problem is I have a PCM from DP Tuner and would hate to have that reflashed. Maybe I'll call Jody.