Carb - Transmission link question
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
Carb - Transmission link question
I've been running a Performer 400 manifold with a Carter 650 on my '78 F250 w/auto for years and loved it. It topped out one summer at around 14mpg (unloaded) and still ran around 10mpg with a camper on the back and towing a boat. It's now at 5mpg even after three rebuilds.
I am now putting on a new Edelbrock 1406 / 600cfm and I got the linkage kit for the tranny. The problem is that without the linkage kit, I can snap on the throttle arm (not cable) to the new ball stud. If I add the linkage kit I can now hook up the tranny kick-down lever but I can't use the ball stud.
For one, the threads on the ball stud will go through the kit arm and the carb arm but only if I don't use a lock washer (bad idea). Second, the ball stud hits the kick-down arm and never lets it go home.
Any ideas?
I am now putting on a new Edelbrock 1406 / 600cfm and I got the linkage kit for the tranny. The problem is that without the linkage kit, I can snap on the throttle arm (not cable) to the new ball stud. If I add the linkage kit I can now hook up the tranny kick-down lever but I can't use the ball stud.
For one, the threads on the ball stud will go through the kit arm and the carb arm but only if I don't use a lock washer (bad idea). Second, the ball stud hits the kick-down arm and never lets it go home.
Any ideas?
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
Shorter ball stud
A shorter ball stud would probably work as long as the threads are long enough. The one that is on the Carter is half the length as the new one provided with the new carb.
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I used the ball stud and instead of using that clumsy factory kickdown lever, I purchased a cable kickdown kit made by Lokar. I was one of the best purchases I ever made. It costs about $50 and it works way better than the factory piece. It also attaches to the carb & doesn't interfere with the throttle stud.
Another clumsy pos to remove is the arm that's connected between the gas pedal (inside engine compartment) and carb. I replaced mine with 1/4" all thread and 1/4" spherical rod ends. Smoother throttle action and no binding.
Another clumsy pos to remove is the arm that's connected between the gas pedal (inside engine compartment) and carb. I replaced mine with 1/4" all thread and 1/4" spherical rod ends. Smoother throttle action and no binding.
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From: Oregon
Edelbrock 1406 / '78 F250
Ok, I had to call Edelbrock because of this issue.
They said......Oh, the ball stud goes on the outside arm of the kickdown linkage kit. I guess they thought everyone was supposed to know that.
The Carter 650cfm that I'm taking off has the ball stud for the the throttle near the carb then the tranny kickdown stud on the outside.
So... I put the ball stud where they suggest and there is NO WAY it is going to work. The throttle rod crosses over (or under) the kickdown rod and they hit each other badly. The throttle rod will not hook-up at all.
I had to take some photos and email them to Edelbrock and I'll have to call them back tomorrow.
The truck is stock. What's the deal?
They said......Oh, the ball stud goes on the outside arm of the kickdown linkage kit. I guess they thought everyone was supposed to know that.
The Carter 650cfm that I'm taking off has the ball stud for the the throttle near the carb then the tranny kickdown stud on the outside.
So... I put the ball stud where they suggest and there is NO WAY it is going to work. The throttle rod crosses over (or under) the kickdown rod and they hit each other badly. The throttle rod will not hook-up at all.
I had to take some photos and email them to Edelbrock and I'll have to call them back tomorrow.
The truck is stock. What's the deal?
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
F250 Auto tranny kickdown arm
I'll post the pictures of the throttle and kickdown rods tomorrow.
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Junior User
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From: Oregon
Edelbrock Tech support no help
Ok, here's an update.
I talked with Edelbrock today and they said, "they've never seen a ford setup like this. My kickdown arm is bent and I'll need to mod the throttle arm."
Well crud!
So, here's my plan, I'm going to make the linkage match the Carter that I took off.
I found a throttle ball assortment (4 different studs) by Holley (p/n 20-2). There should be a ball stud that is short on the ball side and long on the thread side so I can connect the Edelbrock kickdown kit.
The kickdown pin on the kit is getting drilled out. I have to reverse the pin so it faces the other way. I found an Edelbrock pin (p/n 8009) for GM that should thread right in.
Hope the good Hope.
I talked with Edelbrock today and they said, "they've never seen a ford setup like this. My kickdown arm is bent and I'll need to mod the throttle arm."
Well crud!
So, here's my plan, I'm going to make the linkage match the Carter that I took off.
I found a throttle ball assortment (4 different studs) by Holley (p/n 20-2). There should be a ball stud that is short on the ball side and long on the thread side so I can connect the Edelbrock kickdown kit.
The kickdown pin on the kit is getting drilled out. I have to reverse the pin so it faces the other way. I found an Edelbrock pin (p/n 8009) for GM that should thread right in.
Hope the good Hope.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Oregon
I thought about that but I have an odd way about vehicles.
Don't replace anything that was stock if you don't have to.
Don't drill holes in anything that can be seen. (dash)
Don't remove items temporarily, they never seem to get put back on.
No bumper stickers that advertise for other then charities.
Don't replace anything that was stock if you don't have to.
Don't drill holes in anything that can be seen. (dash)
Don't remove items temporarily, they never seem to get put back on.
No bumper stickers that advertise for other then charities.
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