intake swap?
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intake swap?
i have a 89 f250 with a 351 it is fuel injected and well i am old sckool i dont like computers or none of that stuff so i want to pull the efi off and put a 4bbl intake on it anyone ever do this and could anyone tell me if it will work? do i need to repalce the heads? what do i need to do the motor is tight and runs well i just want to wake it up and i have a few older 351's laying around with 4bbl intakes thanxs
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Yes, you can do it. Maybe. Part of it depends on just how old your older 351s are. The early ones had an extra bolt at the front and rear water passage, so if you put one of the early manifolds on a late motor, that extra bolt hole goes straight down into the water passage. You need to use a manifold that's late enough to not have that extra bolt on each corner. Look for 6 bolts per side like your '89 instead of 8 per side.
Also, you'll need to swap out the TFI distributor for a non-computer Duraspark unit, or if you're really into old school, a point-type dist. (I wouldn't go that far, personally)
Are you having problems with the EFI, or you just don't understand it so you'd feel lost if you ever did have problems with it? It's not really all that difficult to work on, the Ford EEC-IV EFI is really user-friendly and there's a ton of information available on it. It's also self-diagnosing. Got a problem? It generates a code which you can easily read that tells you where to look.
EFI is also more efficient than a carb. But it's up to you...
Also, you'll need to swap out the TFI distributor for a non-computer Duraspark unit, or if you're really into old school, a point-type dist. (I wouldn't go that far, personally)
Are you having problems with the EFI, or you just don't understand it so you'd feel lost if you ever did have problems with it? It's not really all that difficult to work on, the Ford EEC-IV EFI is really user-friendly and there's a ton of information available on it. It's also self-diagnosing. Got a problem? It generates a code which you can easily read that tells you where to look.
EFI is also more efficient than a carb. But it's up to you...
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Good points on EFI vs Carb.
But my 89 351 has 8 bolts per side on the intake manifold. So does my 70s 393. It depends on the heads being used, and both of these engines have newer heads, E7TE's on the 89 and GT-40Y aluminums on the 393. He should have an 8 bolt per side intake manifold, and needs to replace it with the same 8 per side.
He should have E7TE heads on the 89' unless it's been changed.
But my 89 351 has 8 bolts per side on the intake manifold. So does my 70s 393. It depends on the heads being used, and both of these engines have newer heads, E7TE's on the 89 and GT-40Y aluminums on the 393. He should have an 8 bolt per side intake manifold, and needs to replace it with the same 8 per side.
He should have E7TE heads on the 89' unless it's been changed.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Interesting...I have a pair of 351W E7s, and they have 6 bolts per side. I don't have any late-model 351W intakes to look at though.
Here's what I'm talking about though:
The head on the top is a D0OE, you can see the L-shaped water passage with the extra bolt hole in it.
The head on the bottom is a 351W E7 without the extra bolt.
If you try to use an early manifold with the extra bolt hole on a later head without it, that bolt hole in the manifold lines up right over the water passage. That may result in a slight water leak...
Here's what I'm talking about though:
The head on the top is a D0OE, you can see the L-shaped water passage with the extra bolt hole in it.
The head on the bottom is a 351W E7 without the extra bolt.
If you try to use an early manifold with the extra bolt hole on a later head without it, that bolt hole in the manifold lines up right over the water passage. That may result in a slight water leak...
Last edited by TigerDan; Jan 30, 2006 at 12:11 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Topsfield, MA
Thanks for the pics, that really helps explain what you're talking about.
I don't have any experience with the D0OE head, but I've got two sets of E7TEs.
I just ran out to the garage and checked my engine, I could of sworn there were 8 but in actuality I'm wrong, there are 6 per side. So the 89 has 6 bolts per side, and you're right, that D0OE head must have 8, sorry.
The bolt hole you have pictured in the E7 (bottom) is the pesky one of 4 that are hard to get out w/o breaking. The threads of the bolt get packed with dirt because the hole goes through the head and dirt gets in from both sides. I broke 3 of 4 of those bolts (4, 1 on each corner) when removing my 89's intake.
The 6 bolt intakes have all the bolts in a straight line, unlike those D0OE heads that have one higher than the other.
I don't have any experience with the D0OE head, but I've got two sets of E7TEs.
I just ran out to the garage and checked my engine, I could of sworn there were 8 but in actuality I'm wrong, there are 6 per side. So the 89 has 6 bolts per side, and you're right, that D0OE head must have 8, sorry.
The bolt hole you have pictured in the E7 (bottom) is the pesky one of 4 that are hard to get out w/o breaking. The threads of the bolt get packed with dirt because the hole goes through the head and dirt gets in from both sides. I broke 3 of 4 of those bolts (4, 1 on each corner) when removing my 89's intake.
The 6 bolt intakes have all the bolts in a straight line, unlike those D0OE heads that have one higher than the other.
Last edited by MustangGT221; Jan 30, 2006 at 12:43 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2004
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From: The hills of No. Calif.
Okay, thought I was going nuts there for a moment!
When you turn the head on an angle as it's installed on the block, those 2 oddball holes still almost line up with the others, they just take longer bolts, So the bolt holes are still lined up pretty close to the same on the intake, with the early one you just have two bolt holes close together on the ends. And of course, that extra one on the C9OE/D0OE heads is another that's prone to rusting and breaking off. I didn't take a picture of the other end of the heads because of the rusted, broken-off bolt stub there...!
Doncha' hate it when that happens?!
When you turn the head on an angle as it's installed on the block, those 2 oddball holes still almost line up with the others, they just take longer bolts, So the bolt holes are still lined up pretty close to the same on the intake, with the early one you just have two bolt holes close together on the ends. And of course, that extra one on the C9OE/D0OE heads is another that's prone to rusting and breaking off. I didn't take a picture of the other end of the heads because of the rusted, broken-off bolt stub there...!
Doncha' hate it when that happens?!
Last edited by TigerDan; Jan 30, 2006 at 01:00 PM.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
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if you use the early intake just tap the extra holes and thread in a short bolt with some kind of sealer.
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thanxs guy's basicly why i am thinking about the swap is i want more power it will be pulling my pulling truck all over the stae and with the weights it is a heavy load also my gas milage suxs i am getting about 6-7 mpg at best and i personalt think it should have a bit more get up and go i kinda know a bit about the codes but it confused me more than any thing so dose anyone have a good easy way to check it out befor i do the swap? and would it gain more power if i do?
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yea that is kinda what i was thinking and also this truck might get hooked up to the skid once and awhile (truck pulling) my girl frend wants to run it at a few pulls to see if she likes it befoir i bulid her a all out pull truck if i stepped up the cam and converted it to mass air would that hurt or help my milage? i only plan on a 1000-5000 rpm range and the mass air thing i am kinda forgin to it i dont know crap about efi and stuff but i will learn if it can prouduce power?