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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:18 PM
  #16  
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I'd also add that if the truck has the original brake fluid in it you definitely want to change it. I do a lot of motorcycle brakes and I tell customers that the brake fluid should look like Sprite not root-beer. Brake fluid is hydroscopic. It will pick up water on it's own along with all the microscopic metal flakes from the pistons. This is the garbage that ruins the calipers and any other moving parts in the hydrolic system. At a minimum the fluid should be changed every time you do a pad swap unless you want to start replacing the more expensive hard parts.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #17  
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I just did the front brakes on my 2000. The original pads and rotors where shot at 75K. Duralast 2 year warranty rotors-$27 each. Duralast Lifetime warranty-$20 for both sides. White Lithium grease tube-$2.

I didn't do the rears, but they are more expensive. Something like $83 each for the rotors. (Same Duralasts) I think the pads are around $20 Lifetime for the rear.

Pretty cheap and my brakes are much firmer with a lot less pedal travel.

Mike
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:26 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BLK94F150
Pretty cheap and my brakes are much firmer with a lot less pedal travel.

Mike
Where did you get the rotors from? If you don't mind me asking.

And yes I was planning on bleeding the brakes too.

I am also seeing a lot of rotors with the Rotor/hub assembly, do I need those or do I just need regular rotors.
 

Last edited by Patatoe1; Jan 30, 2006 at 09:32 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:32 PM
  #19  
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Autozone. For wear parts like rotors and pads, Autozone parts do just fine. Anyway, the guys at the country garage around here say that most parts are made by a couple of companies and boxed as needed. I'm not saying that what they say is 100% true but they see a lot of parts, especially Ford pickups and GM medium duties.

Mike

Edit: You just need regular rotors.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 09:34 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for the help.
 
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