just picked up an 83 6.9 had sat for awhile he said but not over a year. got it running with a squirt of ether and jumpers drove home. died on the way home when i pulled out the headlight switch so put it in the shop it had a bad connection one a plug with a fusible link on it then further testing i found no juice on the drivers side glow plugs ,none of the 4. found the wire re-connected it to the plug the wire still gets a bit warm. replaced all the glow plugs. its in a heated shop still dosnt start. glow plugs seem to cycle alright and stay on for about 10 secs maybe. It DOES have a leaky injector tho dont know if its return line or not , looks like its leaking out of the injector itself. so if the fuel gets out will it depressurise? pretty sure it leaked on the way home and had it running and it seem to run fine but leaked enough to make a puddle.

 

Main light switches are a known electrical problem....ie burning up, check it.

My best guess would be the added drain of power from boosted batteries caused the Fuel shutoff solenoid to shut off fuel. Probably due to lack of 12V power, the metering valve is spring loaded to off.

You will need to do some serious searching for info on the older GP system, most memebers on all the diesel pages I frequent have modified to a push button GP system.

There are Return line kits available to repair leaky injector return lines.....but since this is a NEW 2U truck there may be more maintenace you might want to do prior to that kit.......http://www.dieselpage.com/dlk.htm

 

On the passenger side near the oil dip stick there is a white connector where the engine harness plugs into the chassis harness. There are two large orange with white stripe wires on one side of the connector. Those are the power to the glow plugs from the relay. Check the connector for signs of overheating/melting on the orange wire side of the plug. Mine was real bad and I just cut those two wires off near the connector on both sides and used a split bolt to reconnect them. The have to carry a lot of electricity when the glow plugs are heating.

The batteries have to be in exellent shape and should be at least 850 CCA.
Also all of the battery and ground connections must be in top notch condition.

If the glow plug system is working, DO NOT USE ETHER. Engine damage or personal injury may result.

THere is a cap below the nut on top of the injector that has two O rings in it. These will start to leak after a while and need to be replaced. Ford has the O rings for about 15 dollars for 16 of them, I would get an extra or two incase you drop or tear one. If the fuel lines between the injectors look bad you should replace them also.
loosen the fuel line nut carefully, you don't want to twist the line and kink it.
After it is loose carefully raise the line up and remove the cap.
Use a little care removing the caps, they can be a little brittle after 22 years with hot fuel going through them. Also you should put a little grease on the O rings to help when reinstalling the caps.
Also when you do the O rings, replace them all or the one next to the one you replace will be leaking tomorrow. After they are replaced try not to disturb the caps and lines or they will start leaking again.

 

now can anybody tell me whut the best oil is too run in it? changed the oil and put delo 400 in it and it seem thin dosnt seem to be reading hardly any oil pressure after fresh oil change it read about half way in normal at start up after i changed it. also how much oil do they hold? my dip stick seems to be in there funny.

 

10 quarts of oil
If you are using a Fleetguard LF 3630 two quart filter then you need 11 quarts.

The stock oil pressure gauge is worthless, the readings mean nothing.

 

Now another question how do I test the glow plugs without taking them out? They all have power at the connector but i dont know if there heating? they are fairly new plugs.

 

First off if they are Autolites get them out of there quick!!!!!

Disconect the wire from the end if the plug and take a standard test (light for testing to see if the wires are hot) and hook the clamp end that you usually would hook to ground and hook to the pos side of the battery and touch the pointed tip of the test light to the end of the glow plug that u took the wire off of and if the light lights up the glow plug is fine, if not the plug is bad.

Hope this helps.

dj

 

Got home from work tried to start it after being plugged in for a day with some coolant heater it has in the bottom radiator hose (dont think the block heater works) and it fired up rand for like 5 seconds then died and wouldnt start. then the batterys were goin down.

I have not changed fuel filter yet and i'm thinkin the fuel is about a year old cause it sat for about that long. changin the filter tomorrow. any other suggestions would be helpful!

 

Figured out it was a leaky return line keeping it from starting after sitting for a while like 5 hrs. replaced one bank of return lines and O-rings and the tee's from napa, but the same line (not the hose itself but the "T" and maybe the o-rings started leaking again like one week later its the line that goes off the passenger front injector that reaturn hose tee's off back to the filter.

Now my question is do you have to crack the injector line after replacing the return line's? I just used the air bleeder on the fuel filter and it started after a few cranking intervals.

 

if you eliminate that hose that goes from the injector return to the fuel filter housing, you will eliminate your fuel filter draining. that line lets air into the filter if there is a small leak in the return lines, letting the filter back bleed to the tank. then when you try to start, you will only run till you use the fuel in the pump and lines, then die till the filter gets refilled.