Alternator/Wiring
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Alternator/Wiring
Hi,
I have found Franklin2 & a few others on this site to be the "gods of Ford wiring knowledge", so I am requesting your help. This is my 1st post, so bear with me. I have seen other questions/problems posted similarly but.........here it goes.........
I have an '88 E350 box truck that had a BAD F/I 351W. A mechanic put a rebuilt '82 351W carburated motor in.(It runs great, but having charging problems) I'm a neat freak, so those 140,000 remaining leftover wires from the F/I under the hood HAD to go. I pulled the computer & its 32 or 64 pin? harness out.........NOW, I have 2 questions............(1) Would it be more beneficial to use an '88 alternator with a built in regulator on this '82 motor,.................OR (2) Should I stay with the current '82 style alternator with ext. regulator??.....I took the '82 alternator off & took it to autozone & had it checked out & it checked out good.........so I bought a new voltage regulator & my underdash gauge still only showed around 11 volts.........NOT ENOUGH!!
Comparing '88 ignition & charging wiring to '82 is VERY confusing. All I wanna do is simplify this mess. Is there any way I could get a wiring diagram(s) for the '88 alternator/wiring hook-up or the '82 alternator/wiring hook-up, depending on which you think would be best to use? After all, those early models (60's & 70's) have the same configuration as I have now......so I know it CAN be done..........I just don't know how!
Sorry for the novel I have written, but I just wanted to explain my problem to you the best way I knew how. I will look forward to your reply
Thanks,
diehard_ford man
I have found Franklin2 & a few others on this site to be the "gods of Ford wiring knowledge", so I am requesting your help. This is my 1st post, so bear with me. I have seen other questions/problems posted similarly but.........here it goes.........
I have an '88 E350 box truck that had a BAD F/I 351W. A mechanic put a rebuilt '82 351W carburated motor in.(It runs great, but having charging problems) I'm a neat freak, so those 140,000 remaining leftover wires from the F/I under the hood HAD to go. I pulled the computer & its 32 or 64 pin? harness out.........NOW, I have 2 questions............(1) Would it be more beneficial to use an '88 alternator with a built in regulator on this '82 motor,.................OR (2) Should I stay with the current '82 style alternator with ext. regulator??.....I took the '82 alternator off & took it to autozone & had it checked out & it checked out good.........so I bought a new voltage regulator & my underdash gauge still only showed around 11 volts.........NOT ENOUGH!!
Comparing '88 ignition & charging wiring to '82 is VERY confusing. All I wanna do is simplify this mess. Is there any way I could get a wiring diagram(s) for the '88 alternator/wiring hook-up or the '82 alternator/wiring hook-up, depending on which you think would be best to use? After all, those early models (60's & 70's) have the same configuration as I have now......so I know it CAN be done..........I just don't know how!
Sorry for the novel I have written, but I just wanted to explain my problem to you the best way I knew how. I will look forward to your reply
Thanks,
diehard_ford man
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From: Easton,Ks
I would go with the 1982 system as the 1988 systems have a poor designed plug that causes a lot of problems. You did not say what type of charging system was on the two trucks, Light or Gauge.
So I will guess Gauge on both, if I am wrong let me know and I will re-post.
Here is the 1982.
and the 1988
So I will guess Gauge on both, if I am wrong let me know and I will re-post.
Here is the 1982.
and the 1988
Last edited by subford; Jan 25, 2006 at 08:47 AM.
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From: Virginia
Concentrate on the top diagram above, we will stick with the 82. I can guess you probably have unknown homemade wiring to the alternator right now.
1. Make sure the regulator is bolted to a a place on the sheetmetal that has a good ground. You may need to scrape some paint away under the the regulator, or if it is mounted on plastic, you can take a short piece of wire and fasten it to a regulator mounting bolt, and then bolt the other end of the wire to a good metal ground somewhere.
2. Make sure the "F" terminal on the alt is hooked to the "F" terminal on the regulator.
3. Make sure the "A" terminal on the regulator is hooked to the large battery + terminal on the starter relay.
4. Make sure the large B+ output lug on the alternator is hooked to the same large battery + starter relay lug that the "A" wire is hooked. Make sure this wire is at least 10 guage.
All the above wires are new wires that you are hooking up. They did not exist in the 88 wiring loom. All those other wires you took out from the engine bay could be used to make the above connections.
5. The last wire. This wire did exist in the 88 wiring loom, so you need to find it. It's the green/red or lightgreen/red in the lower diagram. You need to hunt around till you find this wire. Once you find it, hook it to the "S" terminal of the regulator.
That should be it. You may want to double check the voltage out at the battery with another meter.
P.S. There is no connection to the "S" terminal of the alternator in case you were wondering.
1. Make sure the regulator is bolted to a a place on the sheetmetal that has a good ground. You may need to scrape some paint away under the the regulator, or if it is mounted on plastic, you can take a short piece of wire and fasten it to a regulator mounting bolt, and then bolt the other end of the wire to a good metal ground somewhere.
2. Make sure the "F" terminal on the alt is hooked to the "F" terminal on the regulator.
3. Make sure the "A" terminal on the regulator is hooked to the large battery + terminal on the starter relay.
4. Make sure the large B+ output lug on the alternator is hooked to the same large battery + starter relay lug that the "A" wire is hooked. Make sure this wire is at least 10 guage.
All the above wires are new wires that you are hooking up. They did not exist in the 88 wiring loom. All those other wires you took out from the engine bay could be used to make the above connections.
5. The last wire. This wire did exist in the 88 wiring loom, so you need to find it. It's the green/red or lightgreen/red in the lower diagram. You need to hunt around till you find this wire. Once you find it, hook it to the "S" terminal of the regulator.
That should be it. You may want to double check the voltage out at the battery with another meter.
P.S. There is no connection to the "S" terminal of the alternator in case you were wondering.
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WOW,..........Thanks so much for the diagrams & help, guys. Everything is familiar to me except..........out of the 9 ignition switch harness wires, I can't seem to figure out where or what a couple more of the wires do or go. 4 of the 9 seem to go thru the firewall & the 5 others go to the fuse block.(I also grouped & neatened those up nicely) I HAVE found the lightgreen/red wire........so that will go to the "s" terminal of the regulator. This was spliced from a brown/pink stripe & orange/green stripe coming off the ignition switch harness. Ok, so now I'm down to the other 3 wires in question.....(1) a small gauge white/pink stripe wire, (2) another small gauge purple/white stripe wire, & (3) a reddish-orange/green stripe wire that is spliced from the same brown/pink stripe & orange/green stripe as the one that is going to the "s" terminal on the regulator.
Hope I haven't confused ya.......I sure am...!!! ......talking about a mess,.....I just found the white wire coming from the ignition module on the engineside firewall was CUT & not going to anything........OH MY!!!
Thanks for putting up with my problems!!!!!!!
Hope I haven't confused ya.......I sure am...!!! ......talking about a mess,.....I just found the white wire coming from the ignition module on the engineside firewall was CUT & not going to anything........OH MY!!!
Thanks for putting up with my problems!!!!!!!
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From: Easton,Ks
The (1) White/Pink strip wire comes from the Ignition Switch "ST" terminal and goes to either the Neutral Start Switch (Auto) or the Clutch Switch (Std). It then goes from one of the switches to the Starter Relay small screw and the TFI Ignition Module and may change to a Red/Blue stripe wire. It also used to go to the EEC.
The (2) Purple White stripe wire comes from the Ignition Switch "P1" terminal and is a test ground for the warning light bulbs.
The (3) Red Green stripe wire comes from the Ignition Switch "I1" terminal and goes to Voltage Regulator and to the fuse block fuse 18.
Here is a drawing of the Ignition Switch Plug
The (2) Purple White stripe wire comes from the Ignition Switch "P1" terminal and is a test ground for the warning light bulbs.
The (3) Red Green stripe wire comes from the Ignition Switch "I1" terminal and goes to Voltage Regulator and to the fuse block fuse 18.
Here is a drawing of the Ignition Switch Plug
Last edited by subford; Jan 25, 2006 at 07:28 PM.
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OK,........guys,....I have been under the weather for a few days & have just gotten back out to work on the truck again.....Questions.....the red wire & the white wire coming from the ignition module,........where do these go. The white wire had been cut & wasn't going to anything...??.......also,......the ignition switch diagram was right on the money, but was wondering if there were any fuse block diagrams/layouts for the '88 E-350. I called the local Ford company for an owner's manual & they told me they didn't carry anything any older than 10 years.........was he giving me the run-around?.....if I knew what each circuit was by looking at the fuse block, that would save me a LOT of time from tracing wires..............thanks for ANY help
diehard_ford man
diehard_ford man
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From: Virginia
Here's a wiring diagram for a 89. It should be very close if not the same for your year.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d801775a2.gif
Hook the red from the duraspark II module to the red/lightgreen in the 89 diagram that goes to the coil +before the resistor.
The white wire needs to be hooked to the small red/lightblue wire that goes to the starter relay/neutral safety switch. This wire gets 12 volts during cranking only, and tells the module to retard the timing to let the engine spin easier.
Here's the diagram you need to hook the duraspark II up properly. The resistor is a special resistance wire that your fuel injected van does not have. You should be able to find a white chrysler type resistor in the store and make it work. It should be 1.05 to 1.15 ohms resistance.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d801775a2.gif
Hook the red from the duraspark II module to the red/lightgreen in the 89 diagram that goes to the coil +before the resistor.
The white wire needs to be hooked to the small red/lightblue wire that goes to the starter relay/neutral safety switch. This wire gets 12 volts during cranking only, and tells the module to retard the timing to let the engine spin easier.
Here's the diagram you need to hook the duraspark II up properly. The resistor is a special resistance wire that your fuel injected van does not have. You should be able to find a white chrysler type resistor in the store and make it work. It should be 1.05 to 1.15 ohms resistance.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
F-1 10 LG-R (18)
F-2 65 DG (14)
F-4 38 BK-O (12) to 18 GA Fusible Link
195 T-W (20)
F-5 298 to 298
298B P-O (18)
F-6 296 W-P (16)
297 BK-LG (12)
F-8 38A BK-O (12) to Headlight Sw.
54 LG-Y (20)
F-9 687 GY-Y (12)
687B GY-Y (12)
181 BR-O (18)
F-10 40 LB-W (16)
37D Y (12)
F-11 137 Y-BK (18)
F-12 517 BK-W (14)
F-13 19 LB-R (18)
19A LB-R (20)
F-16 460 Y-LB (18)
F-18 640 R-Y (20)
640E R-Y (20)
16A R-LG (12)
44 LB (18)
385 W-R (18)
10 to 10
10A LG-R (18)
298 to 298
298A P-O (18)
37 Y (12)
Hope this helps.
F-2 65 DG (14)
F-4 38 BK-O (12) to 18 GA Fusible Link
195 T-W (20)
F-5 298 to 298
298B P-O (18)
F-6 296 W-P (16)
297 BK-LG (12)
F-8 38A BK-O (12) to Headlight Sw.
54 LG-Y (20)
F-9 687 GY-Y (12)
687B GY-Y (12)
181 BR-O (18)
F-10 40 LB-W (16)
37D Y (12)
F-11 137 Y-BK (18)
F-12 517 BK-W (14)
F-13 19 LB-R (18)
19A LB-R (20)
F-16 460 Y-LB (18)
F-18 640 R-Y (20)
640E R-Y (20)
16A R-LG (12)
44 LB (18)
385 W-R (18)
10 to 10
10A LG-R (18)
298 to 298
298A P-O (18)
37 Y (12)
Hope this helps.
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Thanks Franklin,.
I will get to work & see what I can make happen. When you said that the white wire from the ignition module had to go to the red/blue wire that came from the ignition safety switch,......on the '88 harness, would that be the lightgreen/red stripe wire that you also said goes to the 's' terminal on the voltage regulator?....whew! comparing the two years with their OWN color codes is quite "trying"! Please forgive me for being so puzzled. Also, I was wondering if I could pop in a fuse holder in place of some of those fusible links & if so, how would I know what size fuse to put in the holders? I know it may be more expensive to do, but seems like it'd be much easier to find a problem by checking/looking for blown fuses as opposed to guessing, cutting, testing then splicing back again.
I feel like I should be paying you for all of this information & advice that you have been giving me. You REALLY don't know just how much I APPRECIATE your doing this. I don't know how you do it,............with all of the "shadetree/jackleg" mechanics like myself, it has to be STRESSFUL to say the LEAST!!
A HUGE THANKS
diehard_ford man
I will get to work & see what I can make happen. When you said that the white wire from the ignition module had to go to the red/blue wire that came from the ignition safety switch,......on the '88 harness, would that be the lightgreen/red stripe wire that you also said goes to the 's' terminal on the voltage regulator?....whew! comparing the two years with their OWN color codes is quite "trying"! Please forgive me for being so puzzled. Also, I was wondering if I could pop in a fuse holder in place of some of those fusible links & if so, how would I know what size fuse to put in the holders? I know it may be more expensive to do, but seems like it'd be much easier to find a problem by checking/looking for blown fuses as opposed to guessing, cutting, testing then splicing back again.
I feel like I should be paying you for all of this information & advice that you have been giving me. You REALLY don't know just how much I APPRECIATE your doing this. I don't know how you do it,............with all of the "shadetree/jackleg" mechanics like myself, it has to be STRESSFUL to say the LEAST!!
A HUGE THANKS
diehard_ford man
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
You’re welcome, if you would email me with your email address I would send you some more diagrams. It is sometime very hard to post a diagram on these threads and still have them be readable.
Bill K
Bill K
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Sorry Subford,..........
Since I only have a few postings (less than 15) & I have been registered to FTE for LESS than 15 days,........it won't allow me to email you yet. Would it be a good idea to post the address on here, or is there another way?
diehard_ford man
Since I only have a few postings (less than 15) & I have been registered to FTE for LESS than 15 days,........it won't allow me to email you yet. Would it be a good idea to post the address on here, or is there another way?
diehard_ford man
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Alternator/Wiring Problem
Hi again,..........
I took a look at the switch harness & everything matched up exactly like you said, but taking a look at the harness diagram you sent me & matching it to mine.....the 1st "A1" pin is empty.........the 2nd "A1" pin has 2 wires, black/litegreen stripe coming from it. One appears to be about a 12 guage wire & goes to the fuse block "F6" (accessory feed from ignition) & the other smaller one goes???? ...............in that same row, the "I2" pin has a brown/pink stripe wire & the next pin "I1" has an orange-reddish/green strip. Both of these appear to be rather large gauge & these SPLICE together.........& coming from this splice are 2 red/green stripe wires & 1 green/red stripe wire. The green/red stripe wire goes to the engine compartment & I believe you said goes to the "s" terminal on the voltage regulator. Now the other 2 red/green stripe wires.............well one goes to the fuse block "F18" (ignition switch to battery terminal) & the other goes to the engine compartment?????........ok,......last pin in that top row, the "ST" pin.........this has a white/pink stripe wire & I believe you said this goes to the starter solenoid (relay..sorry).......the "P1" pin is a purple/white stripe & you said is a test ground for the warning light bulbs, but goes to??????
The second row on the harness.....the 1st & 2nd "BATT" pins have yellow wires coming from them & they splice together & go to the fuse block (battery to load).......the next "A2"
is empty....the next "A2" pin has a light grey/yellow stripe & this goes to the fuse block "F9" (accessory feed) & the last pin is "P2" & it is empty............So there ya have it as I see it. When I get those 3 wires from above to the right location & I get the two wires from the ignition module (red one & the white one) to the right location, I'm first of all gonna say a prayer & then gonna try to start it up.............only after I have gone back over everything & checked it all out!
Again,.......I just can't explain how much help you & Franklin2 have been to me.!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!
diehard_ford man
I took a look at the switch harness & everything matched up exactly like you said, but taking a look at the harness diagram you sent me & matching it to mine.....the 1st "A1" pin is empty.........the 2nd "A1" pin has 2 wires, black/litegreen stripe coming from it. One appears to be about a 12 guage wire & goes to the fuse block "F6" (accessory feed from ignition) & the other smaller one goes???? ...............in that same row, the "I2" pin has a brown/pink stripe wire & the next pin "I1" has an orange-reddish/green strip. Both of these appear to be rather large gauge & these SPLICE together.........& coming from this splice are 2 red/green stripe wires & 1 green/red stripe wire. The green/red stripe wire goes to the engine compartment & I believe you said goes to the "s" terminal on the voltage regulator. Now the other 2 red/green stripe wires.............well one goes to the fuse block "F18" (ignition switch to battery terminal) & the other goes to the engine compartment?????........ok,......last pin in that top row, the "ST" pin.........this has a white/pink stripe wire & I believe you said this goes to the starter solenoid (relay..sorry).......the "P1" pin is a purple/white stripe & you said is a test ground for the warning light bulbs, but goes to??????
The second row on the harness.....the 1st & 2nd "BATT" pins have yellow wires coming from them & they splice together & go to the fuse block (battery to load).......the next "A2"
is empty....the next "A2" pin has a light grey/yellow stripe & this goes to the fuse block "F9" (accessory feed) & the last pin is "P2" & it is empty............So there ya have it as I see it. When I get those 3 wires from above to the right location & I get the two wires from the ignition module (red one & the white one) to the right location, I'm first of all gonna say a prayer & then gonna try to start it up.............only after I have gone back over everything & checked it all out!
Again,.......I just can't explain how much help you & Franklin2 have been to me.!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!!!!
diehard_ford man
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