I had the ATS turbo installed, thanks to the advice from many members here, but paid to have my leaks fixed as i have no time to do such work right now. Truck came back with a horrid oil leak at the turbo, which they are offering to fix. I still have a coolant leak which leaves little drips coming from around the starter. Is there a part that goes bad I can fix? I fixed the fuel return line, after having a nice round of diesel, boy that stuff tastes good... anyways. If i start with a 3-5 second shot of ether, I sometimes get watery soot out the exhaust, however, it happens seldomly. What is it from? Also, the gp's are on a push button switch which when pushed the solenoid i put on makes a ratcheting noise like the batteries are dead, yet it cranks at normal speed. Could my batteries be dead? thanks!

 

Check the power relay (on pre87 depending on build date) on the right inner fender to see if power is quickly turning on and off to the GP's. If yours isn't located there check for it behind the air cleaner (87 and after). Relay could chatter if going bad. this will take two people to check it. If you had dead batteries you couldn't roll over the engine or have radio or lights. Ether is not a good idea to start this engine. If the GP system was working you could do a lot of damage to engine with a 5 second shot .

 

"""I still have a coolant leak which leaves little drips coming from around the starter. """

Check the block heater it is just above and behind the starter, if it old do not attempt to tighten just replace it.

 

leak at the turbo ?? How long ago did you have the turbo installed ? Was it leaking there when you sent it in? Are you sure its oil ? where at the turbo is it leaking ? get that fixed now, the turbo is lubed by the oil supply to it. To fix the water leak if its the block heater, you have to drain the radiator and that side of the block.

 

I totally disconnected the Gps becaue the solenoid I originally put on was relocated by the technicians at ATS to a VERY dangerous location. They put it just hanging by it's wires, about .5" from the oil feed line to the turbo. I heard something shorting, popped the hood and saw the solenoid, unmounted, rubbing the oil feed line which is metal and attached to the turbo top. VERY SMART. The boot I orignally put on the hot post was not there anymore. I may just get the 7.3 solid state and convert. From what I hear from ATS at this point, the oil feed was leaking, so much so, I brought it home and htere was almost no oil left in the sump. . STILL there is an oil leak, which I investigated a bit more last night myself, as I don't trust ATS anymore, and found the new valve cover is leaking. The thick rubber gasket looks to be okay, and I tried some silicone to seal 'er up, but she leaks just as bad. Advance Auto has the gaskets for $15, and autozone has some for $6. Both a set. I may just get those and try that. As for the antifreeze leak, I cannot locate it to save my life. There are drips on the starter, but past that I can't find anything. I bled teh brakes on the rear and the wheels lock up now and teh brakes are MUCH better. The driver's side bleed screw snapped off in the bore so I may drill, or ez out it. I was surprised to find the two front rotors are brand spankin new and the pads as well. Although the lugs were pretty loose. thanks for all the help! Is that block seal stuff any good or do I risk clogging the passages? I was also told by ATS my CDR is bad and I risk blowing seals by keeping it in there....Whether to believe them? I don't know, but I just cleaned it, and with it off last night, there was a thick layer of oil along the intake runner.

 

The 6.9 is known for head gasket leaks at the rear of the heads producing A/F in the area of the starter also.

 

Wonderful... Is anyone against K&W block seal??

 

Got a better look at the leak and when started cold, it leaks until the high idle drops to normal, then the leak pretty much stops. The leak is from, I think, the receptacle for the block heater. There is no power attached to it. How do i remove it, and what does it cost? I also need to replace the resistor pack for the heat. Under the hood near the motor right? thanks for all the help.