Thanx guys...and I do beleive the quote was Veronica Quaife(Geena Davis) in The Fly....but I could be wrong.

 

Oh...and the sound is a metalic grating sound...like the ring gear rubbing on metal.
Any tips on aligning this monster to slide it in??

thanx...

*edit...trigger happy*

 

At first I thought it was from the 1952 "The Thing" with James Arness, but that was Keep watching the skies.

It might be from The Fly

Ken

 

Dan:

I forgot to ask. Did you try putting a 4.0L tranny on a 3.0L engine? If so, the Torque Converters are different.

 

This should be a 3.0L Tranny....but you never know with the scrap yards. I'm deffinately not going back to this yard....there was so much sand, and busted glass in the bell housing area...not to meintion the rear seal. Replaced the seal and cleaned the whole thing up really well prior to instalation. I'm not 200% sure the torque converter came from the same tranny as there was some yellow scrap yard writing on it...nothing to indicate engine size. Aestheticaly they look different, but the year on the tranny did say 92, which could account for it looking different. If it was a 4.0L tranny the bell housing should of been different no?? Would the ring gear bolts still line up if it was the wrong tourque converter?

 

The tip at the center of the converter should fit inside the pilot hole at the center of the crankshaft. I'm not sure if there is or is not a difference, but check anyway to make sure it fits. Otherwise, the flywheel will be bent when you force the two of them together by tightening the 4 flywheel-to-TC nuts.

You're right. If the bellhousing is the same, that should be a 3.0L tranny. Pull the torque converter from the the tranny. Then, you should be able to pull the input shaft straight out. Make sure the end with the short spline goes into the tranny and you should rotate it a bit while shoving it in to make sure it seats properly.

The torque converter should also be rotated a bit to be seated properly since the tangs have to engage the pump gears. Lay a straight edge across the bellhousing and measure the distance from the center tip of the TC to the straight edge. That distance should be 7/16 to 9/16 inch. if not, you'll have the interence problem you are having now.

Good luck.

 

Just a thought out of the back of my head here...let's say I've got the wrong torque converter. I'm really skeptical and skiddish to do this....but if how dumb would it be to use the old torque converter, which didn't seem to have any metal shavings around it's lip as mentioned by somebody else. Is there any way to flush it while it's off the vehicle??

Thanx again...

 

Don't do it. There is no good way to flush a TC, on or off the vehicle. Just compare external dimensions between the two TCs. I have a feeling your problem is not a mismatch of parts, but parts not being seated properly.

 

Same here...thanx again greatly greatly appreciate all the help/advice. I'm hoping that torquing the housings together hasn't damaged anything behind the pump...I'm really wishing I had untorqued it last night/listened to my gut urge...as it's really bugging me now.

 

Shadow:

You don't have the Torque Converter pushed back far enough on the Transmission.
The T/C should be sitting back about and inch or so from the front edge of the bell-Housing. In fact when it is far enough back it should rub the back of the T/C. Then when you bolt it to the flywheel it will pull it foreward.

If you start the van with it tight like you have it. It will take out the Pump. Bad News then.

Jay

 

Looks like I'm swapping the tranny tomorow for another new/used tranny. The torque converter won't go in any deeper and now I have the inner shaft jammed up. I think...and I could be wrong here....but I think they've got the wrong torque converter on it. It's got some numers and a 90 on it...while the tranny has the same numbers and a 92 on it...I'm guessing to indicate years. Further more, the little pilot stub in the middle of the torque converter was longer on the old torque converter.

Round 2 coming up...

 

from Ford Service CD

Converter and Oil Cooler

When internal wear or damage has occurred in the transmission, metal particles, clutch plate material, or band material may have been carried into the torque converter (7902) and transmission fluid cooler (7A095). These contaminants are a major cause of recurring transmission troubles and must be removed from the system before the transmission is put back into service.

Whenever a transmission has been disassembled to replace worn or damaged parts or because the main control valve body (7A100) sticks from foreign material, the torque converter, transmission fluid cooler and oil cooler lines must be cleaned and flushed. Refer to «Transmission Oil Cooler and Tube Cleaning and Replacement» in this section. Rotunda Torque Converter/Oil Cooler Cleaner 014-00028 or equivalent can be used. Under no circumstances should an attempt be made to clean converters by hand agitation with solvent.

The lack of a drain plug in the A4LD converter increases the amount of residual flushing solvent retained in the converter after cleaning. This retained solvent is not acceptable and a method of diluting it is required. The following procedure is to be used after removal of the A4LD torque converter from the cleaning equipment.

1. Thoroughly drain remaining solvent through the converter hub.

2. Add 1.9L (2.0 U.S. quarts) of clean transmission oil to the converter. Agitate by hand.

3. Thoroughly drain solution through the converter hub.

Transmission Cooler and Lines, Back Flushing and Cleaning
Automatic transmissions which experience torque converter clutch plate failures may have foreign clutch plate friction materials released into the transmission fluid. These foreign materials may be captured by the transmission fluid cooler (7A095) and will recontaminate the fluid after the transmission has been replaced or repaired. These materials can also restrict the fluid flow to the new or repaired transmission.
The cooler systems on A4LD transmissions that have torque converter failures should be examined for foreign materials. To determine if clutch plate material has "flaked or broken away" and contaminated the system, the following methods should be used instead of cutting open the torque converter (7902):
l Drain the original torque converter fluid through filter paper and examine residue for any brownish soft-textured friction plate material.

l During flushing of transmission oil cooler lines and transmission fluid coolers, look for brownish clumps of soft-textured friction material in the solvent flow.

l Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines and fittings from both radiator in-tank openings and inspect the inlet and outlet openings for brownish clumps of soft-textured friction material in either opening.
If any of the above conditions are noted, then the internal (radiator tank) transmission fluid cooler and the auxiliary transmission fluid cooler, if present, must be removed and replaced with new parts.
see manual

 

Hey thedarkshadow. what area of Ontario are you in?

I have done a few of these trannys and the last time I had a hell of a time getting the torque converter all the way on, I think it took me 45 minutes. I live near Barrie, if youre in the area let me know, I may be able to assist.

 

Hey there...greatly greatly appreciated!! I'm probably a bit too far from ya...I'm over here in London, but still appreciate the sentiment. Just picked up the 2nd used Tranny today. At least the centre of this torque convertor looks the same as my old one. Did you happen to find any trick to getting the TC to sit all the way in or just a matter of lining up the notches and lot's of praying??

*edit: wording*

 

My experience (and i have done many tranny replacements) is that its hit and miss. I have been able to seat the converters in a few seconds in some cases, but for whatever reason, the Aerostar one took a long time, just be patient.
The ideal scenario is when the converter remains on the tranny, why remove it if you dont have to.