I have a 92 with 4.0.

What is the desired reading on the temperature gauge (N-O-R-M-A-L) or what do you normally see?

I tow a 1200# Tent trailer and was running at M-A (with rebuilt tranny). That made me nervous enough to replace the thermostat from 195 to 185. I also went ahead and replaced the water pump, radiator, hoses, and fan clutch. I may have gone overboard but this van has ~190K miles on it and wanted to set it up for trouble free towing.

Now it runs at O-R during normal driving and R-M during hill climbs with the trailer.

thanks for your input.

 

I think yours might be about normal.
I have replaced the thermostat and the temp sensor. No load, mine would be about "O"

tom

 

I don't mean to hijack the thread but I also have question about temperature. I have a 92 ranger with the 4.0 standard trans and the temp only get just above the line to maybe the N most days. A year of so ago I put an aftermarket ,from a parts store, replacement radiator in and changed the thermostat. I have tried putting cardboard infront of the radiator but it still ran cool. I have put two different thermostats in but still the same. After it warms up it also makes a loud thump/bang noise while running and after being shut down. I have tried to bleed the air out but still does it.

If there is air in the system, could it be caused if a head is cracked?

What process do you guys use to bleed the air out of the cooling system?

Do you think an anticavication (like they use in the power stroke diesels) help?

Thanks for any help.

I also changed the water pump 2-3 years ago, but I think the problem has developed in the last year or so.

 

Wildstang,
Your temp indication is the same as we are talking about. Now clunking might be a different problem.

As for bleeding. All I have done is keep the overflow filled up. when I change antifreeze, I pump the upper hose while keeping the radaitor/overflow filled. Nothing special.

good luck
tom

 

I also put in a 185 stat in my 93 Explorer and right now it rarely even hits the N. In the summer, idleing in the afternoon Pheonix 110 heat, it gets around the A or the L. I put the cooler stat in because it would tend to get burried hot in the summer. Now it's dialed in great for summer but now it doesn't get warm enough to drop the idle below 1000 R's. PCM keeps trying to run it faster to get it heated up. Not an issue really as I have a manual trans.

 

My truck run on “O” all the time even while towing the trailer, it might get over “O’ going up a steep hill on a hot day but I take it easy going up and it does just fine. BUT if I have to go up a lot of steep hills I try to do so early in the morning.

I have a 93 4.0L A4ld auto tran /w heavy duty tran cooler plus the OEM cooler in front. I tow a 5x16 enclosed trailer and most of the time a lot of cargo weight. Before the heavy duty tran cooler the tran got hot and leaded fluid.

auto tran. lines goes to the engine’s radiator if the tran is running hot it will warm up the engine and vice versa too, that is why you need a real good tran cooler.

Towing for light trucks
If you are going up a steed vary long hill on a hot day more in likely you are going to burn your auto tran up or heat up your engine. Try to plan ahead before going up the steed vary long hill, set your speed – to slow will over heat – to fast will over heat get to know your truck’s power and its cooling capacity. If it starts to over heat stop for a while and let it cool off if not it’s just going to get worse going up the steep hill. Using your fan heater helps a little if engine is getting hot. Oh and take it out of overdrive while on hills. A good running 4.0L can handle overdrive just fine on level ground (don’t quote me on it)


When I go camping /w a camping trailer using my Ranger I fill up water tank when you get there if you can, same goes with a ton of beer & food. Take your time going up who cares how super fast others are going most want to go fast so they can go home and watch Tv

Here is something I found the other day on trailer towing it has a lot of good tips

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/E...wing/index.htm

 

I go to the junk yard sometime and find a decent stock used radiator and try that. I almost think the replacement one is tow efficient at cooling.

 

my temp gauge goes up to r and m and back down to n.but if drive on the highway a long period of time it just sytays at n.and stays there even after you get off the highway and do city driving.but if just do city driving it it goes to rand rm and back again.have replace everthing except the head gaskets and intake gasket or the gauge.my 92 5 spd has 200,000 miles on it.two heater cores in last 6 months,occailly you can smell antifreeze.but not all the time.also it doesnt smoke and stills gets 17 to 17.5 mpg.

 

My temp gauge only goes inbetween the first veritical line to the n. Even in the summer it stays in that range. Last winter I put some cardboard in front of the radiator and forgot about it into the begining of summer, and still did not seem to affect the temp reading. I know the gauge and sensor work because a couple of weeks ago my lower radiator hose clamp loosened up and I ended up loosing all the antifreeze on my way to work. I was just able to pull into the yard as the check engine light came on, the temp needle was almost pegged. I haven't noticed the thumping sound since I refilled it.