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ok i am at kragen today and getting some parts and i notice this guy talking about stuff he had no clue about ( oil of course) . he comes to the counter with a case of 25w60 castrol oil . i figure it is for a old beater . then he asks the part guy to look up the oil filter , he says 2006 ford f-250 5.4 , i almost died. so then i mentioned the oil ford spec'd is 5w20. he then says 25w60 will stay on the engine longer and help protect on cold starts. so seeing this was a pointless battle and being a wise guy i picked the guy out a atomic orange PH2 filter. when did they start making 25w60? i shook a bottle on the shelf and it was like gear oil.
.....so then i mentioned the oil ford spec'd is 5w20. he then says 25w60 will stay on the engine longer and help protect on cold starts......
Well, he's right about the first part. The thick stuff will stay on parts longer, but it definitely won't be better on cold starts than a 5wXX. I feel sorry for the poor truck
With that said, it proabably won't make the 5.4L self-destruct. either. Think about it, 25w60 at operating temperature is still thinner than 5w20 at cold start-up. SO the way I see it is the guy's engine will probably see a lot more wear on cold start-up, but the 60wt. oil at operating temps is a non-issue, IMO.......but what do I know? I'm just some guy who posts bs on an oil forum.
Actually it could shorten engine life because it is too thick to flow well in tight areas and the extra shear effort required for thick oil will destroy MPG too and possible increase oil consumption for rings not being able to scrap the thick goo from the cylinder walls. Personally I think 5w20 is a bit light and I would use 10w30 excpet maybe if it was below zero for a while.
The 25w60 at room temp is THICKER that a 5w20 at operation temps. That thick 60wt goop will starve the motor as it would be pooled up in the heads.....
I never said otherwise. Let me re-word my original statement; HOT 25w60 is thinner than COLD 5w20. That's all I was saying.
I have no real clue as to what would actually happen to this guy's engine running 25w60 over the long haul.
One of the critical functions of oil is to cool engine components, like bearings and such. The amount an oil can cool a given engine part is directly proportional to the oil flow across that part. Modular motors were designed for 5w20. Using 25w60 (egad!) the oil flow across the parts will be greatly diminished. It follows, then that the parts will run much hotter. Goodbye motor.
i was seacrhing through the castrol line up and found the 25w60 is for V twin air cooled motorcycle engines only and not to be used in any on higway vehicle.
Motorcycle oils emphasize engine protection over enviro-friendliness. They typically are similar to older automotive oils, such as SF/SG/SH, in terms of additive package.
As far as viscosity goes, MC oils designed for air-cooled engines, are much higher than what is useful in most automotive uses, and even for water-cooled motorcycles.
Keep in mind that flat-tappet cams are very common in MC's, and thus require a different additive package than the roller-tappet cams that are common in modern cars and trucks.
As the owner of an older flat-tappet cammed 460, I am wary about using oils with low ZDDP content in that engine... having said that, there are other additives that can be substituted for ZDDP, but they are generally more expensive, so I am skeptical that motor oil companies are adding them in quantities that are well-suited to flat-tappet engines, since such engines are a diminishing piece of the oil-market pie. I'm sticking to HDEO's in my 460, for now, but I may end up using MC motor oils of the proper viscosity in that engine in the future.
Mr. Hog, this is the first I've heard of 25W-60. Perhaps it's also used in stern-drive boats?
Last edited by Big O Dave; Jan 23, 2006 at 07:08 PM.
Wanna bet that this guy comes on this forum in a couple of months talking about how Ford's suck and that he just bought a new Toyota once again so he could have a dependable vehicle?
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