Which Oil?
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Augusta, Georgia
Which Oil?
When I bought my '56 F-350 several years ago, the PO said that I should run non-detergent, 30-weight oil. However, someone else says I should run a modern oil, that the newer formulas greatly reduce the oiling issues that Y-Blocks have. Comments, recommendations, ideas???
Johnny
Johnny
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From: durham bridge n.b., canad
I have heard it said "use a non detergent oil in a Model A Ford" because that is what they used in 1930. That is all that was available in 1930. The API ratings in automotive motor oil has improved several times since the 60's. Today we have the best lubrication ever in "Synthetics". Synthetics lubricants are used where the very best are required like "The Space Shuttle", and in many of our high end cars today ( installed in the factory). The best is not good enough, engines still wear out. If you really care about your car, synthetics are the way to go. Bill Hanson.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
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From: Brentwood,CA
The PO must be in drugs. You never ever use a non detergent oil in any engine built after 1930 or so. Maybe he meant to run a single weight 30w? with the flat tappet cam in that engine i would be looking for a oil high in ZDDP to save the cam. try to find a high detergent oil with lots of ZDDP. depending on your climate use either a 10w30 or 15w40 Diesel oil. Like Delo , Delvac , Rotella T , Tection or Valvoline Premium blue.
New User
Joined: Nov 2004
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Oil for Y blocks - again
There has been and will be much discussion on this subject. Technology has improved oils greatly in the last 50 years. Some on this and other boards think anything synthetic is better and it may very well be. Just remember that new fangled oils including the synthetics are designed for newer engines with roller rocker and cam. Check to see that what you use has anti scuff properties necessary for lifter and cam life. Castrol GTX was an old stand by until the feds required removing zinc for longer catalytic converter life. OEMs then began using roller cams, roller rockers, over head roller cams, etc for longer life without zinc in the oil.The diesel oils such as Rotella and Delo have zinc for anti scuff - synthetics while slippery and not prone to heat related break down may not have anti scuff properties. Just check the label, get an MSD sheet, look on line, whatever. Original Y parts are disapearing and replacements are expensive and hard to locate. It is better to check first.
Just my $0.05 of words for $0.02 of opinion.
TC
Just my $0.05 of words for $0.02 of opinion.
TC
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: in a 82/350/400/at/2wd
i remember my father talking about when the detergent oils came out.he said a lot of people were having trouble with rings etc coming loose as the old gunk was holding them together and was washed away by the detergent oil.
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From: durham bridge n.b., canad
If we don't keep up with the times, we will fall behined. Read about synthetics in the link below. Bill Hanson.http://www.geocities.com/xbolt427fe/gallinks.html
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
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were not talking about new engines.im talking about old engines from 40 years ago that never used high detergent oil and have never been rebuilt.these engines have sludge in them and high detergent oil is not a good idea.if the engine is clean inside thats different.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Non detergent is for dummies; period! That is the same idiotic mind set Ive heard from those who never change their oil, just add a quart now and then.
The new EPA specs to reduce zinc is to meet the new 120K catalytic converter spec. It will really affect our Y's since the flat tappet cams will be most prone to wear.
Most of the major cam grinders have come out with tech bulletins about this problem.
While Roetella is good I dont particularly like a 10W40. It caused excessive consumption in my Dodge 318 when I tried it at about 350K. Castrol has a 20W50 High miler that is good and the 318 made it to 392K in fine running condition but the body and suspension finally gave up! Comp Cams has their own break in additive that they are now recommending be used year 'round.
Im going to start reading up a bit more and see if any of the snake oil additives are any good or if something new will be arriving at the box store near you.
The new EPA specs to reduce zinc is to meet the new 120K catalytic converter spec. It will really affect our Y's since the flat tappet cams will be most prone to wear.
Most of the major cam grinders have come out with tech bulletins about this problem.
While Roetella is good I dont particularly like a 10W40. It caused excessive consumption in my Dodge 318 when I tried it at about 350K. Castrol has a 20W50 High miler that is good and the 318 made it to 392K in fine running condition but the body and suspension finally gave up! Comp Cams has their own break in additive that they are now recommending be used year 'round.
Im going to start reading up a bit more and see if any of the snake oil additives are any good or if something new will be arriving at the box store near you.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,952
Likes: 117
From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,
Well you have hit on an area that causes some people to get pretty mad! What kind of oil that people use is VERY personal. Oil is probably one of the most if not THE MOST heavily marketed products behind gasoline and food!
It appears that a lot of people use anecdotal evidence and testamonials to decide what to use. (like that Boss302 website did)
Current motor oil is literally ROCKET SCIENCE. But luckily, the standards for oil is pretty much ......well standard. The ASTM and the API have agreed on certain standards that the SAE and the industry have all bought into.
If you want to know more about oil...go here http://www.lubrizol.com/LubeTheory/default.asp They don't sell oil or additives to the public. They sell it to all the refiners...who sell it to the public. I am always suspect of someone selling a particular oil telling me that THEIR oil is better than someone elses because and they say so!....and all their customers "like" it etc.
Anyway.... what to use in your Y-block? I would use any name brand current production (only because there's a better chance of the grade being what they claim it to be) 15W-40 and change it every 5000 miles or so along with the filter(or every 6 months).
Cheers,
Rick
Well you have hit on an area that causes some people to get pretty mad! What kind of oil that people use is VERY personal. Oil is probably one of the most if not THE MOST heavily marketed products behind gasoline and food!
It appears that a lot of people use anecdotal evidence and testamonials to decide what to use. (like that Boss302 website did)
Current motor oil is literally ROCKET SCIENCE. But luckily, the standards for oil is pretty much ......well standard. The ASTM and the API have agreed on certain standards that the SAE and the industry have all bought into.
If you want to know more about oil...go here http://www.lubrizol.com/LubeTheory/default.asp They don't sell oil or additives to the public. They sell it to all the refiners...who sell it to the public. I am always suspect of someone selling a particular oil telling me that THEIR oil is better than someone elses because and they say so!....and all their customers "like" it etc.
Anyway.... what to use in your Y-block? I would use any name brand current production (only because there's a better chance of the grade being what they claim it to be) 15W-40 and change it every 5000 miles or so along with the filter(or every 6 months).
Cheers,
Rick
Last edited by HT32BSX115; Feb 1, 2006 at 02:13 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 265
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From: Wisconsin
I would have to agree with some of you that if the engine has always had non-detergent oil in it I would continue to use that,but if the engine has been rebuilt I would use a good brand name detergent oil ; the weight depending on the climate that you live in.