I just purchased this F150. A few days after purchasing I noticed the check eng. light. I took it to a local parts store today and they pulled the following codes: 111, 173, 327, 328, & 634. Before I started replacing items, I thought I would ask the experts. By the way, the light is currently off. I drove it to the store and back and no check eng. light. Not sure what that means. He stated that I need to replace the Oxygen sensor, EGR Valve, & some type of sensor in the transmission. Also, this may be un-related, but I noticed that when I am idleing and push on the accelator it acts like it wants to die when I let off. It stumbles and then idles back to normal. Thanks in advance for the help!

 

111-system pass, 173-HEGO shows always rich, 327-EVP or DPFE below min. volts, 328-EGR closed voltage low than expected, 634-MLP sensor voltage out of self test range A/C on. if you go to http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/ they list codes and well its a good resource.

 

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I used this sight to verify the codes, but I am looking for some help on diagnosing what all the codes mean. What parts need to be replaced?

 

You got right parts to check or replace.There are test procedures in haynes/chilton manuals to make sure the sens. have power and are in signal range, i don't have one with me,but there is also a vac hose on the egr/evp so check for cracks.The driveability issues are more than likely due to these problems. I replaced my egr/evp and it came as one piece. And during the warm-up cycle the ecm cuts back on certain functions till the motor gets up to the normal running temp so that might explain why it didn't come on on the trip. Check out the "stratigies" section on that web site, i think the egr/evp could be causing the o2 reading.

 

If it was not in park during the test KOEO you will get the 634.
If you have a vacuum pump you can try an exercise the EGR Valve. Also check the harness and plugs around the EGR valve.
Make sure the truck is warmed up and then rerun the tests yourself.

 

I have found that the DPFE is bad more times than the EGR valve. But if the EGR is stuck open it will give an idle problem. The IAC may also be dirty giving you a problem with the idle and may not give a code.

Toby

 

Subford, It was in park when I pulled the codes. I drove it around town today and the check eng. light only came on for a brief period. It's been off ever since. Does that mean anything? BTW...

Twisted, What is a DPFE and where is it located?

I just hate replacing good parts. I am hoping that I can nail this down to an exact item before I go replacing parts!

 

There aren't any critical codes there, I wouldn't get upset or anxious. You have plenty of time to figure out what is wrong. 327 and 328 are very common codes, I think everyone will see those two show up from time to time.
Troubleshoot one code at a time, and do not change or move more than one thing at a time. I often check my codes and the 327/328 show up from time to time, and after I clear the codes from my computer they may not come back for weeks or months, then they just show up again. Do not expect that your truck will run trouble-free ( or code free) year round. Carbon build-up, less than adequate factory harnesses and connectors, will cause many intermttant failures. Ford electrical quality was terrible when your truck was built.

The EVP sensor which is attached to the end of the EGR diaphragm, is pretty tough, it is more likely a poor electrical connection somewhere between the sensor and computer.

The Haynes manual for your truck is great to have, it has just enuf info to fix some of your problems. If you want to fix things without the manual this is the right website for advice... but you will need a good multimeter to check resistance and DC voltages. You also need a vacuum hand pump with test gauge, and hoses in order to test EGR systems.

The 173 code could be an easy fix, it may be a bad Oxygen sensor in your exhaust pipe. If it was never changed, it is probably time...they cost about 50 bucks.

msg...please try and get your truck specs in your profile or signature somehow. What engine, tranny, mods, etc.??? If you don't know what you have yet, then just ask FTE, don't be afraid to post questions, or use the search function, or check out the electrical wiring, engine, or tranny forums
FTE has a deep archive, and alot different sub-forums.

 

Differencal(spl) Pressure Feedback EGR. You should be able to find 2 steel lines that come off the tube that goes to the EGR valve, those steel lines go to some rubber lines that go to the DPFE. It can meassure the pressure differance in the tube and tells the computer if the EGR actually opens or not. Use vacuum to the EGR at an idle and see if the engines idle changes, if it does the EGR is more than likely working.

Toby

 

Thanks for all the help. 924X2150, you mentioned bad oxygen sensor in my exhaust. I don't know if/when it was changed since I just bought the truck. Is there any way to know for sure if it's bad? By the way, do you know anything about the code 634?

Also, I purchased the Ford Service manual. Is the Haynes manual better?

Finally, How do I update my profile. I looked around and I can't seem to figure it out.

All, thanks for all the help. Hopefully, I will solve my problems soon.

 

msgntsu, since you just bought the truck, I suggest you disconnect your negative battery cable for a few minutes and clear your codes. You may have some old stored codes, so before you start replacing parts and sensors, clear codes, run truck for a few hours, and re-check codes.

 

if you have the ford service manual, forget about the haynes or chiltons books. that is the only one you will need. the other ones only have 1/4 the info that is in the ford book

 

Yes the Ford Shop Manual is the only one to have.

How does it shift?

634 indicates the TR sensor is out of Self-Test range when the gear selector is in Park.
TR: = Transmission Range.

Possible causes:
Transmission Range not in Park during Self-Test.
Misadjusted linkage.
Open or short in harness circuits.
Damaged TR sensor.
Damaged PCM.

You can try this.
Key off.
Apply parking brake.
Place transmission in NEUTRAL.
Verify that TR Sensor Tool (refer Ford Service Manual for proper tool) or equivalent fits in the appropriate slot.
Does the tool fit properly?

Yes, Let us know and we will try to help you a little further.

REMOVE tool.

No
PLACE the transmission in NEUTRAL. LOOSEN the two TR sensor mounting bolts. MOVE the sensor to allow insertion of the Transmission Range Sensor Tool in the appropriate slots. TIGHTEN the two mounting bolts to specification. REMOVE tool. VERIFY shift linkage adjustment. CLEAR Continuous Memory.

RERUN KOEO Test.

 

Thanks again guys for all the help. I removed the negative terminal a few weeks ago, so I am receiving new codes. Also, the truck seems to shift fine. I don't see any issues. Subford, I will check into the tool that you mention below this week. It's raining today and I am working all week, so I will have to try it next weekend. Also, I meant to say that I had purchased the Ford service manual on the disc. It's kind of hard to follow (vs. the book), but does have a lot of info.

 

I hit the enter key too quick. btw, should I worry about the code 634 as long as it's shifting fine. What problems will occur if I ignore it for a while?