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Yeah that's right. I kept my old ball stub and used it on the new tranny. The funny thing with my theory here is that this particular shift rail is in the middle and there, the stick/ball stub are straight up and down. This means the stub will extend further down into the tranny at that point than with 1/2 or 5/reverse since those two rails are canted away some 5 or 10 degrees from straight up and down. And those 2 rails are fine. I would think that is my old ball stub was too short, then the two outer rails would have more of a problem.
Keep thinking on it. I'm going to call the shop up tomorrow and tell them they need to do more or I'm not paying for it. I have a great relationship with my credit card company. They at least have my old core and can tear it down to investigate. I would think that if a customer calls up with an issue like this, they would want to get to the bottom of it ASAP so as to 1) help the immediate customer and 2) learn more about what it is they think they are doing so it doesn't happen again. It's called continuous improvement. Such a simple concept and so ill-understood what benefits it can reap.
From the ranger forum, I found a post where the 1994+ trannies had a taller shift rail housing and therefore needed a taller shift ball stub. And, 1993 was the last year that nuetral safety switches were used. The new one has no port for the switch so it's a later year and taller. It had no shift ball stub so I used my old one. So it must be sliding over the top of the shift mechanism. The post on the ranger page was worse - could not engage 3rd gear at all. I'm going to ask for the right stub and see what they say. Also going to ask for my $30 back for the helicoil kit I had to buy to make this work and also for figuring out their problem.
Guy's,While on the M5OD M5R2 tranny my reverse lock's up after putting in reverse and moving truck it will all of a sudden lock up and stop truck,if you clutch it again it will move again but jerk to a stop .Fluid ok. All forward gear's work ok,no grinding. Any clue for this?? Thank's
Might have broken the actual gear. This could be dangerous. I broke 2 gear, both main and counter gear. The trans stopped with the bad parts of the gears came around and tried to mesh.
Jharger is correct. It is very possible that the gears each have a chunk missing.
I had this exact same problem with a remanufactured transmission we installed in a Ford Focus. The Focus is a transaxle though, but what was happening was the output shaft had too much thrust movement and was binding with the adjacent gears.
To figure this one out is will have to come out for inspection.
Well the tranny is coming out anyway because i am swapping engine's out. It's 92 150 . Fixing up for grandson. What else would i do in retirement.LOL Too cold for fishing. Thank's guy's
Steve - do you have any insight into different length shift ball stubs? ie part numbers and lengths. I'm going to try to get to Ford today but any insight is appreciated.
We'll see if the moderator puts it through but I posted a link to the ranger forum, different web site not here, of what's going on. Too much to retype. CC company has already backed out the charges on my account and I'm trying to get the right shift ball stub from the rebuild shop. Ford gave me all I need and it looks like they gave me a 1996+ tranny for my 1993 truck.
The plot thickens. Ford dealer said for Explorers with M5OD's, 1993-1995 wera all the same. In 1996, the top cover and stub shaft changed. In 1996, nuetral safety switches were not used.
The 1993 shaft I have is about 11mm, .4" too short in the rebuilt tranny that has no nuetral safety switch. So it would surmise I have a 1996 or later model rebuilt tranny and I need a longer stub.
I realy all this info back to the tranny shop. They send me another, longer stub. OK great but wait, the slot in the stub for the shift handle alignment pin is facing backwards - should face to front of truck. It's a mirror image of my stock one. And to boot, it is .8" longer - twice as much as it should be. I have no idea what this thing goes to.
So I carefully measure out the clearances in the top cover and determine that yes, about .4" longer is what I need and the current short stub is missing the 3/4 mechanism altogether. The end, tip, of the stub is pushing on the top of the shift rods, not pushing from behind. The shear friction created is the only thing moving the shift rod and fork to allow 3/4 gear engagement.
I don't know how dangerous this can be. it's introducing a downward load on the shift mechanism. Can this break something?
Anyone know where I can get the right stub shaft - non dealer?
Other than the deal, a salvage yard/recycler is probably going to be it. Some of the other forums I participate in have a For Sale and Wanted forum so that the members can sell the stuff they no longer need and guys like you can locate stuff that they otherwise couldn't easily find.
All day at junk yards today. Found 1 which is the same short one I already have. For $10 I bought it. Worse case I can always weld a peice to the bottom and make it work. I did find a guy with a yard full of trannies. A guy at a tranny shop said he goes to this guy if he ever needs anything off the wall. He was not in today but I caught him on his cell. Maybe tomorrow he will be able to check - said he had them but of course, is it the right one?
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