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as you could prolly figure the valve covers leak on my bronco II we shouldnt have 2 cold of weather this weekend so i was deiciding to fix this i have a tube full of orange RTV sealant/gasket maker i am going to try to seal it up withim puting a bead on the head rim where the valve cover sits on and on the bottom of the vavle cover it self the gasket will sit between these to beads of sealant this should work i hope i finnaly got the engine hoist mount to break lose to get the drivers side cover off in order to take this hoist completly i need to remove the dip stick housing dose that just pull out of the block??? the other side looked like a could get away without removing the engine hoist but at the expence of taking off the heater hoses oh well looks like this will be an all day project im also painting the covers Hemi orange yeah lol
If your going to take the time to pull the covers do it right, replace the gaskets with the blue Fel-Pro gaskets, the number ends in a "T", follow their instructions. The other important things is making sure all surfaces are very clean, the covers are flat/not bent were they contact the head, the load spreaders are put back in the exact location, DON'T over-tighten the cover bolts. When I did my 2.9 I was able to get them off by...disconnecting any electrical connections in the way, flipping the alternator back towards the fender, unbolting but not removing the AC, unbolting but not removing the dip stick, and maybe a few other hoses. There are only a few small areas were you need sealer, near the head/intake.
the head gaskets have been replaced numourus times and each time they leak afterwards thats exactically why i am going to put the sealer around the entire surface of both the head and vavle cover contact areas
i want to get this done soon and i could probly get this leak to stop by just putting the sealer on with out a gasket... hence the name "gasket maker" but sence i am going to go through all the trouble of taking this off why not get the other gasket in addition im taking them off the weekend none the less if the gaskets come off intact and look like there not damaged i am most likey just going to put the gasket maker around the area i sed before and put it all back together.
yeh i know where can i get the fel pro or whatever cork gaskets from, the gaskets on there now look new, but somehow just kept leaking... from the amount of friggin time it took me to get one cover off i want to make sure i wont need to do it again, this isnt a live and learn thing i really want to go through since i have other things i need to get to (rust) also its not loud at all really but i can here som valve tap for somone like me with basic tools and a medium knowledge of engines would i be able to adjust the rocker bolt that sits on the end of the rod from the top end or is this somthing so precise that with basic tools it shouldnt be tryed its no big deal i saw the vavles and they seemed pretty good for 19 years old i would say. Thanks for the help
The Fel-Pro gaskets that end with a "T" are made of silicon or something like it. The most likely cause of continued leaking is warped covers due to over-thightening the bolts, missing/miss-placed load spreaders or the sealiing surfaces were not cleaned properly.
If you read your manual it will descibe the procedure for adjusting the valves, basically with the valves closed you turn the screw 1.75 turns past contact.
can i go to a place like napa or advanced auto and tell them i need blue "felpro" gaskets for a 1987 bronco two and they will know what im talking about and be able to order it for me? or is this somthing you can only get from ford, or an internet site
can i go to a place like napa or advanced auto and tell them i need blue "felpro" gaskets for a 1987 bronco two and they will know what im talking about and be able to order it for me? or is this somthing you can only get from ford, or an internet site
It's aftermarket and the blue Fel-Pro gasket part number from Advance Auto you're looking for is VS50312T. They are good but for the price I'd just get the cork ones and add a little sealer to each side (about 1/4 of the price of blue ones).
do you think any other place wuld have them last time we ordered from advanced they didnt order the part right and we got parts from a completely different vehicle
do you think any other place wuld have them last time we ordered from advanced they didnt order the part right and we got parts from a completely different vehicle
The cork and rubber gaskets are stock items, you won't have to order them so there should be no problem. Just have them pull it from stock and take a look at it. Just about any parts house can get you the part though.
Okay, I'm going to have to put my $0.02 in here again. If you want no leaks, do NOT use cork valve cover or oil pan gaskets. They tend to get cut, dry out, get brittle, crack, and leak like a sieve. A cheap fix, if you don't want to spend the $$$ on the permadry plus silicone gaskets, is to get the permadry rubber gaskets ("R") and put some hi-tack sealant on at least the cover side to keep them in place when you re-install the covers, etc. I replaced my valve cover gaskets around 3 or 4 months ago with the rubber ones, did not overtighten anything, and I have almost zero leakage. My other problem areas (typical of both Fords and this particular engine) are very minute leakage at the upper intake and front and rear main seals -- esp. the rear main... a BIG Ford issue since as long as I can remember. Anyhow, no offense to anyone... just my $0.02