Hello,

I have been using air-powered tools for ages now in my garage (DIY) but have always used corded or battery powered drills (because they were there).

I was thinking about purchasing a pneumatic drill but had a couple of questions. Most drills I have seen are either 3/8 with 1800rpm max speed OR 1/2 with 500rpm speed. I have always preferred 1/2 inch as they are usually heavier duty and more reliable in the long haul. I also understand that the best torque for cutting steel is in the 450-500rpm range(?)

This drill will be used for mechanical/auto work only.

Any comments and/or recommendations?

Thanks,
Gil

 

They are expensive to run compared to Battery Operated, (using 220 to squeeze air). I have not found any real advantage to them, in fact being tethered to an airline can be a PIA sometimes

 

I have a Snap-on and a CP. They have great power but neither on reverses. They ARE really old though, things have probably changed. They are extremely compact for the very high torque they put out.

 

Air tools are great when you are working aroung flamable things, like fuel, or paint thinner. Air drills offer lots of torque in a compact package which is nice in tight places. I have a 3/8 that I use for small bits, wire brushing, and use with my cylinder hone due to the solvent fumes. I have a 1/2" for drilling metal and reaming holes out. Then there is my right angle 3/8" for extracting alternator bolts from the head of our old 79' 1 ton Ranger's 400 Mercury.

When shopping for air drills, be shure it has a decent chuck. You can get a cheap drill with a quality Jacobs chuck and have money left to spend on something else.

 

I am a fan of both pneumatic and battery power for tools. While the battery-operated tools continue to get better (mostly due to better battery technology like Milwaukee's V28 line) and encroach on pneumatic tools' turf, pneumatic tools still offer an indisputable advantage of size.

A pneumatic angle drill like the CP will fit in places that a battery-operated drill just can't get to, and weighs considerably less. I haven't seen the specs yet on Milwaukee's new angle drill, but I'll be amazed if it's anywhere near as compact as an air equivalent.

Bottom line is, there's a place for both in a well-equipped garage.

 

Pneumatics offer high stall torque without heating up, saftey and are ergonomically comfortable. It is true you must have an air compressor to operate the drill motor but once you are set up with such the labor saving devices available to you are enormous

 

Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated.

What about the difference between the 1800rpm speed (offered on all 3/8 chuck drills I've seen) vs. 450-500rpm (offered on all 1/2 chuck drills I've seen)? Do I need to buy both so I have a high speed and low speed tool for certain specific applications? I don't understand why I can't find a 1/2 inch drill that runs at 1800rpm. Is the 1/2 inch specifically designed for high torque and metal cutting?

As I mentioned... if I am to buy only one I'd go with the 1/2 in chuck (heavy duty model). Would I be missing anything by not having a 1800 speed drill?

Then again... I do like the right angle drills though for those hard to reach places... maybe a pistol shaped 1/2 in 500rpm AND a 3/8 in 1800rpm right angle? lol

Thanks again.

Gil

 

Drilling holes smaller than 1/4" like the higher speeds. You would do well to have both sizes although the ideal situation is to have a high speed 1/2" drill and use the trigger as a throttle for the larger bits.

 

The air drills are great, but less versitile because you are restricted to the length of you air hose. So it depends on the work you plan to do. If you are only going to use it in a shop evironment then go for it. But I have all kinds of drills, corded, air and battery. I think that the most useful one I have is a battery operated 12v Makita. It drives screws and drills up to 3/8" holes. There are lots of more powerful cordless ones out there but they get bulky and heavy. So I use a corded drill if I need more umph, or if I am in my shop I will pick up an air powered drill or use the drill press.

 

I have a CP that was a 3/8" drill until I bought a 1/2 chuck from the Snap on guy and installed it on my CP. It has plenty of breakthrough torque for up to 1/2" and the best thing is it fits in my roadbox.

Ken

 

When buying your air drill, make sure it has a reverse gear. Many of the models don't. Also, try and find one that throttles-on gradually. I got a CP and it is either on-full or off, like a hair-trigger. It does not have enough graduation in the throttle to allow for slowly starting the bit. It bugs me enought that I'm temped to take it apart and file down the cam on the backside of the trigger...

Just a couple of things to watch for...

 

Thanks for the tips.

XXSSIV had a couple of points I had been considering. I'm leaning towards the 1/2" heavy duty (high torque) model but was unsure whether it would have a "graduated throttle" trigger (500rpm max). I also nearly forgot about checking for the reverse gear. I did notice that some do not have reverse.

Thanks for the reminder.

Gil

 

My CP, an old high torque, 1/2" chuck, low rpm model has no reverse, but has variable trigger.

Same with my Snap-on, 1/2" drive, high speed, no reverse, variable speed. Also an older model.

 

I've always found air drills to be easier on the knuckles when the bit locks than electric.

 

> I've always found air drills to be easier on the knuckles when the bit locks than electric

Yes, the air drill will stall and let you back out the bit without twisting you around. Makes a difference on the larger 3/8+ sized bits.

> Would I be missing anything by not having a 1800 speed drill?

Not when drilling metal, the higher speeds are nice for drilling wood.

I bought a 1/2" air powered drill from www.northerntools.com with reverse and I use it for everything. It was either CP or IR. I use it in the garage, outside to build firewood racks for myself and other people, to drive screws for sub=flooring, etc.

When working outside when it is cold, the battery powered drills hardly last at all, which is big deal if you are a contractor. If you working where it is wet, then an electric is out. For me, the battery powered is a big plus on a ladder or for a small job where I do not want to drag a cord.

I have even used it to buff wheels.

Things to look for in a 1/2" drill

Reverse switch on the thumb side (I am right handed) so you can reverse it with the same hand you use for drilling without moving a hand from the drill or helper handle.

Helper handle that can be rotated into different positions so the handle does not spin around when the bit starts breaking through. Plus, it helps you keep the hole straight and in some cases allows you to lean into it when driving a large fastener.

For close in spaces I bought a 3/8 right angle air drill. I hardly use it, mostly to start a pilot hole so I do not have to keep changing bits in the 1/2", when starting the drilling of a bolt on an exhaust manifold, or to drill inside a frame or dash board.