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AIH delete mod, wires?

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Smile AIH delete mod, wires?

ok, gutting my air intake heater and have two wires and a porcellain piece. I want to keep the relay in place but need to know what you guys have done with the two wires that hook up to the aih itself. What size plug have you used to plug the hole?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by stockernavstar
ok, gutting my air intake heater and have two wires and a porcellain piece. I want to keep the relay in place but need to know what you guys have done with the two wires that hook up to the aih itself. What size plug have you used to plug the hole?
Look at www.blackclouddiesel.com in their own products category for the plug.
Just keep the wires with the heater.
Nut
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by stockernavstar
ok, gutting my air intake heater and have two wires and a porcellain piece. I want to keep the relay in place but need to know what you guys have done with the two wires that hook up to the aih itself. What size plug have you used to plug the hole?
I think the hole is a 19mm. And, in an ironic twist, the drain plug for the Dodge Cummins motor fits right in there. That's what I used until I added my boost guage fitting in that hole.

For the wire, you can make your own. You're just trying to fool the computer into thinking the AIH is still there, so you'll want to wire in a resistor. Something like a 470 Ohm, 2 Watt resistor works. Or, if you're impatient like me, take what RS had in stock and make your own setup. Here's what I've got in my wires:

You'll then just connect one end to the terminal where the AIH hooked into, and ground the other. Since I've put this on, it's been plenty cold for the AIH to have kicked on, and no codes yet.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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The red and black wires are not important. you can remove them completely. The blue wire must be reinstalled on the solinoid. Not only will it set a code if it isn't, but a scan tool will be unable to perform a full contribution test.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:03 PM
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Yea I totally took the wires running to the heater OFF the solinoid, put the blue wire back on it, and that's all you gotta do!!
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Does the computer not throw an AIH circuit low code if you don't put some sort of resistance back in there? I know the AIH code does not affect performance though.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
Does the computer not throw an AIH circuit low code if you don't put some sort of resistance back in there? I know the AIH code does not affect performance though.
i think i just hooked that blue wire back up also... i do get a code sometimes when i check for codes... AIH lowvoltage or something... no probelms though... it doesn't effect the performance of the truck at all... i am unsure if this will cause the scanning issue that cookie mentioned... that's the first that i have heard of that...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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I think that as long as the blue wire is back in place, there will be no issues with not being able to complete a scan. The wire I made was just to eliminate the AIH circuit low code, and no that code shouldn't affect performance. The wire I made basically replaces the AIH itself, and provides resistance so the computer thinks the AIH is still there. It's basically very similar to the wire that Black Cloud sells, but I don't know what type of resistor they use in theirs. But, I figured for $.99 (the cost of the resistors, 5-pack) I'd go ahead and make the wire. I already had spare wire and the connectors lying around. The wire I made, and that Black Cloud sells has nothing to do with the blue wire.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
I think that as long as the blue wire is back in place, there will be no issues with not being able to complete a scan. The wire I made was just to eliminate the AIH circuit low code, and no that code shouldn't affect performance. The wire I made basically replaces the AIH itself, and provides resistance so the computer thinks the AIH is still there. It's basically very similar to the wire that Black Cloud sells, but I don't know what type of resistor they use in theirs. But, I figured for $.99 (the cost of the resistors, 5-pack) I'd go ahead and make the wire. I already had spare wire and the connectors lying around. The wire I made, and that Black Cloud sells has nothing to do with the blue wire.
nice post... i just added this one to my "truck how-to links" in my favorites... i'll dig it up this spring when i'm looking for something else to do to my mule..!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 06:19 AM
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Thanx guys, like cookie said (25% air flow restriction=get rid of it!). so I am i will hook the blue wire back up to the selenoid were it comes of the selenoid.I will also take the two red wires off completely. not really worried about the code.Just taking youre advise that the low volt code wont de- fuel or anything like that. Cant wait to open this intake up a lot more!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by stockernavstar
Thanx guys, like cookie said (25% air flow restriction=get rid of it!). so I am i will hook the blue wire back up to the selenoid were it comes of the selenoid.I will also take the two red wires off completely. not really worried about the code.Just taking youre advise that the low volt code wont de- fuel or anything like that. Cant wait to open this intake up a lot more!
Two red wires??? That doesn't sound right. The only wires you want to remove, are the ones that are attached to the heating element itself. Sholud be a big red one and a big black one, power and ground. No other wires come off.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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I know this is an old thread, but I haven't been able to run a contribution test since removing the AIH on my truck - which tells me I disconnected the "blue" wire when I should've left it connected. Can someone provide me a picture of this so-called "Blue" wire so I can try to get it hooked back up? I still have the parts to the AIH in my toolbox, I just am unsure where to reconnect the wire.

THANKS!
 
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 09:31 AM
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WHAT TEMP.

HOW COLD DOES IT HACE TO GET FOR THIS TO KICK IN?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by johnsjsj
HOW COLD DOES IT HACE TO GET FOR THIS TO KICK IN?
ambient temperature must be below 32 deg F
engine oil temperature must be below 131 deg F
 
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Robert6401
I know this is an old thread, but I haven't been able to run a contribution test since removing the AIH on my truck - which tells me I disconnected the "blue" wire when I should've left it connected. Can someone provide me a picture of this so-called "Blue" wire so I can try to get it hooked back up? I still have the parts to the AIH in my toolbox, I just am unsure where to reconnect the wire.

THANKS!

i had Huck run it on mine at RRE and he was saying the same thing...that it wouldnt run because of aih delete. Then Mike came up and said that it was coming up with zero results because everything passed. Maybe more will chime in on this
 
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