Ok since i rolled my truck a month ago i'm already tore down to the frame and am starting on re-assembley.... Next project is the motor. I have been thinking of what i want in this new engine and have decided apon these parts. What i need is a Strong engine that'll get the 8-12 mpg that i need, have good street manners and be a good light to light runner. In other words i wanna keep up with my cousins lil b16 Honda CRX(which is quick) . I wanna be able to get some rpm's out of it (around 5200 is where i'll probably rev it if it has the power to there with my setup). Here's some parts on the list right now.... suggestions would be appriciated and some explainations... remember it is goin in a truck with 36's and a 6" lift with 4.10's that won't see much wheelin but will see some.... Kinda more or less a lady getter truck / Saturday Night Special Truck. I want a lopey idle but don't wanna waste a lot of gas.. heard this cam is decent.... and i'm gonna bore the block .30 over... how many cubes will that gain me???????????

Here's The List:

FEM-MKP624P-300- Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild Kit, Cast Dish, 4.030 in. Bore, Std. Rod, Std. Main, Ford, 400

500-89210 - Hedman Hedders Headers, 4WD 1/2-3/4 ton P/U, Bronco 1977-1/2-79, 351-400M

638-61601LK - Voodoo Camshafts, Camshaft & Lifter Kit, Lift:.535''/.540'', Duration:256°/262°, RPM Range:1000-5500

220-C3005K - Cloyes Premium Timing Chain Set, 351M/400 1970-1982

561-36002 - Jet Modified Streetmaster Rochester Q-Jet Carb

130-40228 - B&M Transpak, C6, 1967-91

925-8010 - Weiand Intake Manifold, Idle-6000 rpm, Action Plus+, with 2V Heads



ALSO THIS MOTOR DOESN'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT SMOG!!!!! Cause i'm using a 73 cab and such so it'll be regestered as a 1973 F-350.

 

I'd look for flat top pistons instead of dished. Find out if the kit comes with brass freeze plugs. I'd go just a tad bigger on the cam. The 638-61602LK is better for 400ci and will give you a slight lope. 800 is too big for the carb plus I've never been a fan of Q-jets. .030 over 400 is a 408. http://www.fordmuscle.com/calculators/compression.shtml

 

On second check, scratch that. The 638-61601LK is for a 429/460. So is 638-61602LK, I was looking at the same column. I would look for a cam with similar specs. Lift: .540''/.552'' Duration: 262°/268° RPM Range: 1400-5800

All the 351C/400 Hydraulic Lunati cams I saw were 1000-5000 or 2000-6000 and larger. Not much in between.
A Comp XE cam might be better.

Like the CCA-K32-242-4
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,400-5,600 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218 int./224 exh.
Advertised Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.513 int./0.520 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

 

I'm not suer but,that seems like an awful big cam for 2V heads,I could be wrong,mine is a 570-590 282-292 and I'm using 4V heads (P&P)and 800 cfm carb and it thrashes the ground!!!

 

people never seem to understand the q-jet, the pre 75's are 750 cfm, post 75's are 800...but they were used on everything from 4 cyls to big blocksthe small primaries give great fuel economy and great precise throttle response, the the secondaries give you great wide open performnace, but you cant overcarb a motor with a qjet...the secondary air valve only allows the secondaries to open as much as the motor needs i love my q-jet


i would not reccomend buying cheap headers like that, the paint will burn off and they will rust, and the thin flanges will warp...spend the $$ and get a good set of ceramic coated headers with nice thick flanges at the collector and the head

 

Cam:

So the cam is too big or is it about right? I have heard some good things about the Lunati Voodoo Series Cams so that why i went with that choice. I want something lopey but that doesn't mess with power brakes and other accessories. It will be a daily driver so i want a cam that's not gonna be a pain in the a$$.

Q-Jet:

Kubota can you explain a little bit about the q-jet? i haven't been around them (GM), and haven't really read up on carbs. The reason i picked it is because of the said good fuel econemy cause of the primaries and the secondaries set-up.

Headers:

I was thinking of maybe some L&L headers... or what are some suggestions????

Thanks for helping me out on this cause i'm trying to get this all decided so i can start ordering parts for my engine.....

 

well i saw a test on a same motor identical setup quickly tuned test of carter/edlebrock, holley with 4x4 vent tubes, and a Qjet on a rock crawler the holley had slightly better performance but was a pain to tune, the carter ran great out of the box and held at 600 rpm the qjet held at 400rpm
the test was at a incline on the rocks and they did a offf the line test before that but we know the results

i am not much expirecne with the Qjet but can you change the jets without dismantling the carb?

 

i second that on the cheap headers, when i was in high school i had an old chevy that just had to have headers and bought cheap flowtech, not knocking flowtech because they did help out a little bit in performance but the paint started coming off within the first week i had it running, so if you want it to look nice get a set of the good ones, also like you i don't know much about q-jets, but i have always been told they are the best, then i have alsways been told they are the worst, i had a guy set one up for my ole chevy and it was awesome, made me a believer, but it is YOUR truck, i have an edelbrock on my old ford just cause it look perty and runs right out of the box

 

The cam is not at all too big but there are no Voodoo cams available for the 400.
You can compare many here.
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/400hydcams.htm
Comp cams are popular.
http://compcams.com/Technical/Curren...HTML/92-97.asp
The XE 262 would work fine with 9:1 compression flat tops
The XE 268 is not listed but has almost the same lift with 224/230 deg @ .050.
You can see how well it works here.
http://www.geocities.com/styleline58/400.html
Tim Meyer ran the same cam here, you can view the dyno results.
http://www.tmeyerinc.com/400Ford.htm
You can also read the 650 holley made 10-15 more HP than the Edel 750. I would expect similar results over the Q-jet. Holley makes a spread bore design carb as a replacement for the Q-jet but it's no coincidence why 99% of the Holleys and all the Demons are square flanges. The only one size fits all carb out there is one that has a variable venturi.

 

I put a Melling High volume oil pump in my rebuild and I run 60-70 lbs of oil pressure driving. And some chrome moly rings because I planned to "keep her". Boring is s must with chrome moly hard rings. I heard that the 400's had a oiling problem at high RPM's due to most of the oil collecting in the top of the engine so I hope that the hi-volume pump will cure it. Some guys have used oil restrictor kits. I don't know.
Weiend manifold- you will like!
And by all means do the flat top pistons!!! You will have to buy some new pistons anyway if you bore her out, so why not add the ziiip!

I wish I would have, & I will put a roller cam & roller rockers in. Performance would be at the top of the charts. I think fuel mpg would be better also because torque will be increased at cruise speeds. Reduces friction in the engine = more Horses and torque.

 

There's some good info on different ring types in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=449483

The infamous Cleveland/400 oiling problem probably came from the fact that the Cleveland was used in NASCAR racing and suffered from oil starvation to the main bearings at very high RPMs. The oiling system on the 400 is virtually identical to many V8s including some by other manufacturers. At normal street RPMs this will almost never be an issue. If you're really concerned about it then restrictor kits can be used to reduce the amount of oil getting to the top of the engine.

Friction reduction is not the reason that roller valvetrains add performance and they're not cheap. A roller cam alone is going to cost $300-$500 then you have to add in the cost of the special lifters, conversion kit, valve springs, rocker arms, push rods and valves. If you want to go full roller then figure to spend roughly $1500 on parts alone before you're done. Machining can easily run another $200-$300. The heads must be converted to accept rocker studs. I wouldn't trust a conversion kit for a roller setup.

The advantages however can be very significant. Roller cams can be ground to profiles that flat tappet cams simply can't. The valves can be opened sooner and closed later which makes a huge difference in the way the heads breathe. Of course this requires stiffer springs and the more radical the cam the stiffer the springs have to be. Stiffer springs means more stress on the valves so good quality 1 piece valves are a must. A mild roller setup should be very reliable for a street driven vehicle. Ford installed them on HO 302s in Mustangs starting in 1985. As you get more radical spring pressures increase, performance increases and reliability suffers so be prepared to spend a significantly more time under the hood.