'53 Bed assembly help needed.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
'53 Bed assembly help needed.
Ok, I'm starting to get confused a bit here,
I need to raise my bed floor up about 4"-6" to clear the pumpkin when my air bags are deflated. Looking at some pictures of finished beds, it looks like the lip on the bottom of the bed side wall sits on top of the bed wood and therefore would not touch the middle crossmembers if I remove the wood. Am I reading this correctly?
If I'm right, that means I would have to put a 3/4" shim between the bedsides and the crossmembers or raise the crossmembers up 3/4" to meet the bedsides. I'm assuming that this is something that you will be able to see if you look in the rear wheel well so I would like it to look nice and neat.
To raise the floor up I was just going to weld some thin angle iron to the inside of the bed wall to provide a lip for the wood to sit on. Any of you darksiders have light you can shed?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for your help - Brad
I need to raise my bed floor up about 4"-6" to clear the pumpkin when my air bags are deflated. Looking at some pictures of finished beds, it looks like the lip on the bottom of the bed side wall sits on top of the bed wood and therefore would not touch the middle crossmembers if I remove the wood. Am I reading this correctly?
If I'm right, that means I would have to put a 3/4" shim between the bedsides and the crossmembers or raise the crossmembers up 3/4" to meet the bedsides. I'm assuming that this is something that you will be able to see if you look in the rear wheel well so I would like it to look nice and neat.
To raise the floor up I was just going to weld some thin angle iron to the inside of the bed wall to provide a lip for the wood to sit on. Any of you darksiders have light you can shed?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks for your help - Brad
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Brad -
I would also use angles on the sides and the front. Fab up a zee section to replace the rear sill. You will need 4-6" spacers between the bed wood and the frame supports (Like rectangular tube?) and some very LONG bolts.
I would also use angles on the sides and the front. Fab up a zee section to replace the rear sill. You will need 4-6" spacers between the bed wood and the frame supports (Like rectangular tube?) and some very LONG bolts.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
I'm assuming your running airbags and want to slam that truck to the ground... I know a few people who have done this, but instead of raising the whole bed, they installed a half round tube or (similar to a wheel tub) but crossing the entire bed floor. It messes things up if your planning on hauling thing in the bed, but if your out for looks only, it may be easier to do then raising the whole bed for clearance.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 426
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From: Queanbeyan Australia
I am doing what you describe in my F-1
I folded up a u channel out of 1.8 mm sheet to run down each side and bolted it to the existing lip.
I am running 4 2x2 tube across between these two channels on TOP of the original lip.
My steel floor then fits on top of the tubes.....but you could put wood there and if you made the two channels 2 3/4 tall could fit the wood under the new lip
I folded up a u channel out of 1.8 mm sheet to run down each side and bolted it to the existing lip.
I am running 4 2x2 tube across between these two channels on TOP of the original lip.
My steel floor then fits on top of the tubes.....but you could put wood there and if you made the two channels 2 3/4 tall could fit the wood under the new lip
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 601
Likes: 1
From: Rancho Cucamonga ca.
Yes you will have to replace the wood with 3/4" tubing for a shim.
then build a frame to sit on top of lip(s) Then weld in place.
but when you open the tailgate there will be a 6" step up.
Or you could just raise the whole bed 6"
then build a frame to sit on top of lip(s) Then weld in place.
but when you open the tailgate there will be a 6" step up.
Or you could just raise the whole bed 6"
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
I considered doing what imlowr2 is suggesting but under the circumstances, I don't think it will work. I'm embarrased to admit it, but my bedsides are so wavy that I'm hoping by welding angle iron or tube to the side of the bed wall for the new floor, I will be able to pull the sides straight enough to work with them.
I'm not too concerned about the 6" step when the tailgate is dropped. I've even considered putting my gas filler in that 6" step so it's hidden until you drop the gate. I've also considered welding the tailgate closed, but then where would I sit and drink beer at the car shows?
I'm not too concerned about the 6" step when the tailgate is dropped. I've even considered putting my gas filler in that 6" step so it's hidden until you drop the gate. I've also considered welding the tailgate closed, but then where would I sit and drink beer at the car shows?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,243
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From: Michigan
Why not run a piece of 1 (3/4) by 2 (1 1/2) down the length of the bed so if you look under the fenders it would look like you have the stock floor. then build a filler piece (whatever height you need) at the rear and paint it flat black so when you open the tailgate the raised floor is not so noticeable.
Chuck
Chuck
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 5
From: Tucson AZ
I raised the center of the bed floor for clearance, check my gallery, hope there is something there that helps.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
Thanks, I'm up to my ears right now with fabrication projects and I don't think I can take on another one. I'm trying to get my truck done by the 4th of July weekend so I'm having to pick and choose what I fab and what I buy. Granted, I'm out of money too so I'm thinking that I will have to go without.
