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I'm trying to decide what to use for fastening my cylinder heads to the block. I know that ARP offers both studs and bolts for the 335 series. Which is better, and why? The cost of the studs are double, but is there really an advantage to warrant spending the extra money? As I've stated in some of my other posts, I only want to build this thing once. I want it to be reliable to 5500 rpms. Also, would the torque reading be more accurate when tightening the heads, when using studs? I'm going to use aluminum heads, so that may be a factor. As always, any help is appreciated.
IMO ARP bolts are fine for any street machine. Yes studs do provide for a more accurate tq application but unless you plan to disassemble and reassemble the engine ala a racing engine scenario bolts are fine.
Make sure you clean & chase the threads in the block and use the appropriate lubricant on the bolts prior to assembly. ARP provides a chart with their bolts which details the tq specs for both engine oil and their special bolt lube. Apply lubricant to the underside of the bolt head as well as the threads. Also make sure you use the proper pattern and always tighten in 3 steps.
Thanks Bill. I knew that alot of racers used the studs, but didn't know if there were any real good reasons to use them on an engine that will be mostly street driven. The reason I was a little worried was the aluminum head thing. If I put 2k into a set of heads, I would hate to see them warp because of not spending an additional $55. Your answer makes perfect sense to me, thanks again.
One other consideration is on some vehicles you can't remove the heads with studs unless you remove the studs. Happened to me so I went back to the bolts. Above advice is good.
Taking a trip to Summit Racing on Sunday morning, before the Steelers-Broncos game, and I'm going to buy the bolts. Thanks for all your input guys, I appreciate any advice I can get.
i'd look into a hardened washer to use with the bolts on alloy heads, i wouldn't want the bolts chewing into a brandy new set of alumies! there's been several posts here and there about what the proper torque value to use with studs is. the type of lubricant on studs seems to be critical and affects the torque value considerably. another factor is if you had the block "torque plate honed", you'd want to set the heads at the same value that the shop set the plates when they did the TP hone.
you'll have to make sure that the outer diameter of the washer will fit into the bolt head pocket machined in the head, if there is one? ARP/summit should have a washer for the job.
ARP bolts come with washers as well. As I said in my previous post the TQ value with bolts will vary depending on the type of lubricant used. ARP bolts come with instructions which will give you the TQ value with regular motor oil used as lube and with the recommended ARP lubricant.
Socket head cap screws as they are called will work well. Use SAE hardened and ground (not stamped) washers.
Can anyone scan in that ARP torque spec sheet? It would be interesting to see their figures and compare them to what is in machinery's handbook and the OEM service manuals.
Can anyone scan in that ARP torque spec sheet? It would be interesting to see their figures and compare them to what is in machinery's handbook and the OEM service manuals.
Here is the best I could do. The info is on the back of the box and I don't have a flat bed scanner so I had to take a picture with my dig cam and post it in my gallery.
Last edited by Bill_Beyer; Mar 12, 2006 at 12:17 PM.
Reason: Added better resolution pic
ok My truck is well but need work lot of parts. I will look other truck f250 or f350 1992 to 95 . i,m **** up ha ha . I will see you at milano' pizza ok
Dan
Originally Posted by roushracing617
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I will inquire about the washers at Summit when I go Sunday morning.
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