Trying to throw together a truck for the 2wd Street mod class. Only rules (with regard to motor) are 468CID, No tunnel rams, headers must run up and out, no aftermarket or aluminum heads.

We are trying to do this low budget for a couple of reasons so don't tell me that I need to drop a fortune. We don't care if we win anything we just don't want to get laughed out of the place. We already have most of our funds wrapped up in getting wheels and tires (because of rules not because we just want to). Here is what we have a 79 460, an 80's 460 out of an ambulance, we also may have access to some 429's and associated parts. Most of the guys are running 550 - 650 HP. No we don't need to be up that high the first year. Our goal is to just get a running truck out there, pass the tech inspection, and make a few runs to see what we are doing and see if we want to build a wild motor next year.

Sorry for my small novel. Now on to my real questions. What is the HP/TQ of the stock 79 460? What is the most bang for the buck to add? Is there a certain path so that I can do these upgrades in stages that build one another? I read in an old thread (in the sticky up top) that there were some 429 heads that I could get from AutoZone that would raise the CR. Let me know.

Thanks,

CB

 

the main dounfall of the 460 was compression for loss of power.You will want to rais the comp as much as you can However withought alluminum heads you cant co much past 9.5 to 1 over a stock 8 to 1 withought running race gas or it will ping.A supercharger will help but at a big cost that may not be cost effective.NOS is also a good one.I run a .30 over 460 wich is 466 and run a comp 270 cam with headders eddelbrock intek and carb and it runs good at 6000 rpm+.The bottom ends are really strong but its the stock valve train that usally fail.The 270 cam is the biggest you can run withought adjustable valvetrain.Rollerised valvetrain would be one of the best upgrades you could invest in that will allways be wanted no matter what you do for the rest of the engine.A pre-emissions timing chain and gears will also build more tourke and power over the later ones.Also if you have the older heads with the humps in the exhaust ports you should grind thouse out.It will help the BB flow in the exhaust side.The 460 is one of the worst for free flowing exhaust so headders will also help aswell.Make it breath,they are bad for that.STROKE IT for the ultamite power twist.nevermind i just remembered you said 468cid so the .30 over 460 is all you can run..lol.

Good luck, Will.

 

Come on guys. More of you have to have some kind of thoughts on this subject. I said limited budget but I didn't say I was trying to spend $200.00. There has to be some kind of things that I can do to get more pony's out from under the hood. For example I just read a story about a guy putting together a drag racing motor (460) for around 3K and is pushing 500HP. Now do I have 3K? No not right now but do I have 1K-2K to try and get this thing a little more agile and worthy. I would just like to take some baby steps with the plans of adding on later. I need a road map of sorts. The guys that I have helping me are great but they are Chevy guys and I want to hear what the Ford crowd has to say.

Anyone.... Bueller...

 

ok first thing is what type of gas are you gong to or allowed to run? if you can run 110 octane then bumping your compression up is a good start so look to the early heads with the smaller compustion chambers, running them on the late model blocks is not a problem but your going to want to deck the block to get the pistons at zero deck for better quench and more compression. On the heads get bigger stainless once piece valves go for 2.19/1.71 for size have the seats cut then do a good bowl blending. You might also want to do some porting work on the exhaust side expecial attention to getting rid of any smog humps in there, as the exhaust is the major restriction. Also convert it to screw in studs and guide plates for use with roller rockers.
On the bottem end of the engine, no matter what else you do have it balanced! I can't stress that enough it's money well spent expecially if you don't want to spend it all again. Next I would definatly upgrade your rods, to something like eagle Hbeams. I know the hbeams are a little more money than the SIR rods but they are a lot stronger, and since pulling is a RPM intesive sport your stock rods will be the weak point. And when you get pistons look for lightest pistons you can afford, thus stay away from TRW/speedpro they are extremely heavy, go with something like Diamond, JE/srp, or even probe best would be a custom piston that has been lightened but thats more money so just go with the shelf piston in the size you want but from one of the better companies with lighter choices.
Also spend the money to have the block line honed this will help your bearings live longer expecially at higher rpms. Don't worry about converting to or looking for 4 bolt mains the 2 bolts will survive very nicely at 800+ hp and for the money I would suggest a halo main support girdle if you want some piece of mind/insurance, this is what I am running on my stroker at over 800hp and showed no signs of cap walk after a season of running it over 7200 every pass.
On timing chains yes you want one that is straight up but in this situation don't worry about looking for that just go with the FRPP setup they have 9 keyways and you can then degree the cam were it needs to be for whatever cam you run. Speaking of cams if you can afford it go with solid roller, as once again pulling is rpm intensive and rollers are good for that plus will add quite a bit of HP for the money but in any case go with a dual pattern cam with preferably atleast 10deg more exhaust duration. If you choose to go roller call me and we can figure out a custom setup, I just had one ground for my engine and the price wasn't too bad, or if you just want to try one I have my old roller cam still, it's pretty radical but on a 468 cid will make max power around 7400 rpm.
There is my suggestions ask if you have more questions that maybe I can answer.