Disconnected my white wire - taped off - connected a 14ga wire that goes to the momentary switch and the other lead off the switch to ground. Should the WTS light still be on? Might have a bad solenoid still didnt start Guess I'll check all the wiring to make sure everything is clean and making contact. Why would the WTS light still be on?

 

White wire should be taped off.
Lets get the engine started before we worry about the "Wait to start" light.


I reread your post about the wire colors and terminals they are on.

I have tested the controller and the relay-just replaced that but looking at my set up I see No white wire? Looking at it from the front of the truck to the cab I have clockwise top left -yellow, top right -red (big), bottom right -dbl red and one single red wire, last post bottom left another yellow.

Does your relay/controller look like the one in the picture?
It actually has five terminals on it.
Two small ones and three large ones.
It also has a metal strip the connects two of the large terminals, one on the relay and one on the controller. The controller end of the metal strip should have two large tan wires and a small green wire on it.(glow plugs in pic)


You listed to many wires and sizes that were hooked to the relay.
Also it seems like the wires are only partly in the right position.
On the relay there are four terminals.

Top left big yellow is right, should be two big wires. (Battery + in pic)
Top right should be two red small wires on a small terminal.(Ignition switch in pic)
Next terminal bottom right should be a big one and have a metal strip on it and a small yellow wire.
Next terminal bottom left should be a small terminal with the small white wire on it. (white wire in pic) That one was right also.

Someone must have done some previous wiring on the truck.
The big red wire is out of place, should not be there.
If you have the small red wires on the terminal with the metal strip you are trying to heat the glow plugs through the ignition switch, this is not good and may have toasted a fuseable link.

 

Yes my relay looks like the picture. Im going clockwise on descriptions...
The end of the metal strip on the controller does have 2 larger brown or tan and the green. Marked glow plugs in pix

On the relay-bigger post at the other end of the metal strip is the yellow single wire.

Above that post-smaller on the relay is a single white? or it could be yellow due to heat. Marked white wire in pix

Top right on relay is the other bigger post on that is the big red wire. Marked battery in pix

The last small post on the relay has two red wires with a green stripe on those two they are on one connection, there is also a single red wire. Marked ignition switch in pix

There is the blk ground and the blue that goes to a connector.
Ground seems ok

 

Use a test light with the ground clip on a good ground.
Do you have voltage on the battery terminal at all times?
Do you have voltage on the ignition terminal when the key is turned to ON?

If both the above answers are Yes.

Take a short piece of wire, remove the white wire and tape the end off.
Then turn the key to ON, place one end of the wire on the terminal the white wire came off of, touch the other end to a good ground. The relay should click. When the relay clicks you should have power to the glow plugs.

Now if you hook the wire you ran back onto the white terminal, when you puch the momentary switch with the key turned to ON, hold the switch for 10 seconds, turn the key to start. The engine should be running.

 

Using a test light I do have voltage on at all times whether the key is on or off and no voltage on ignition post when key is off but lights up when key is switched on.

 

Can you get the relay to click when you ground the white terminal with the ignition key turned to ON?

 

Even after taping off the white wire and doing as you said connecting the short wire to that post the white wire came off of, before grounding the other end of the short wire I turn the key to the on position and hear the click noise anyways I'm guessing came from the relay. Then I go ahead and ground the other end of the short wire with the key still on then no "click". Maybe a bad relay?

 

Will you be on here tomorrow?
It is late here and I have to get up at 5 AM.
Maybe I can call you tomorrow evening, I have free long distance.

If you want to try that send me a private massage with your phone number and what time you will be free to look at a couple of things on it.

I am east coast time 12:30 AM now.

 

Not sure if this is the problem in this thread but, are you getting power through the ignition lead when the key is on?

A number of threads on gp and controllers tell how to wire a bypass switch to ensure gp heating, which I did without solving my problem. What I should have done is more complete troubleshooting by checking the ignition power to the gp controller. Mine was getting power intermittently. The controller and gp work fine if the ignition lead gets power.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to get at the ignition swith in the steering wheel column. I'm pretty sure the switch is either worn or loose because the key "angle" when the lights and relays come on keeps changing. In the mean time I've wired up an alternate line for +12v to the terminal on the controller.

 

Jamouneau,
The actual switch is located on top of the steering column under the dash.

What your problem probably is is the metal rod that connects the keyswitch with the electrical switch. These are known to break.

Dyrtbyrd actually had burnt glow plugs from when the relay broke.
Still waiting to hear if he got it going after he worked on it Saturday.

 

Dave,
I replaced all the gp's (ZD9's) Tried the bypass and nothing! Did the tests for power,
I have voltage on the battery terminal at all times.
I have voltage on the ignition terminal when the key is turned to ON.
Cannot get the click when I ground the relay with the short wire, checked my fuses under the hood-good, rechecked all the gp's-good. Installed a new relay so I am ????
Dont know what else to check? Still when its plugged in starts great w/o very hard start. I did disconnect the red single wire as you suggested Dave so I wouldnt toast my new gp's,-maybe needs to be connected? Some suggestions at work was maybe weak batteries(2 1/2 years old)? Still turns but I dont know? Seems like I cant get the plugs to work maybe the harness? Need more help! Did have problems with the ignition switch which caused my controller to go bad in the first place didnt replace but if I'm getting voltage to the relay when the key is on then I dont think thats the problem?, Maybe the fender mounted relay/seloniod is bad? Going to try all this week after work to figure out and if needed this weekend.
Thought of getting a new controller if all else fails but if I cant get the bypass to work then the new controller might not work.

 

Dave,

Thanks for telling me where the switch is:

"the actual switch is located on top of the steering column under the dash."

I don't have any manuals for this thing and it is an adventure finding some of the stuff to fix.

 

Dave,
Again thanks! Makes me feel good that someone out there would take as much time as you did to help me get my truck to start. I wouldnt want to steer anyone wrong with how we did it so any specifics I'll leave to Dave.
Thank-You,
Byron

 

Glad to help, it is a bit of a challange wiring somethig 2000 miles away, but I like challanges.

Remember to smile as it fires up in the morning.