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If you wanted to go cheap, cable them together in parallel, and use a blade switch to disconnect one battery when you need to use the winch or stuff when the engine is off, that way you'd have a fresh battery to start the truck with. when your running the engine use them both. basicly its an isolator, but your doing it manually.
That was my next question! I think this is the route I will go.
you can also use a relay to cut down on costs. wire the relay so that it only comes on when the engine is running and wire it so that it joins the batteries to charge the aux battery. 1 run one battery for the truck and two for my aux, i run dual alts with one alt for each battery group, i have been unable to get pics into my gallery, if i can figure it out i will posts pics of my set for you.
a battery relay is about 15.00 and for 10.00 you can get a isolator.
For $10 you can get a little wussy isolator that won't handle the amps that most offroad vehicles need. The higher amp isolators (150-200 amp) will run you about $100 and up. Isolators are ths shizzle but you need one that can handle the amppload if you have a lot of accessories. Something else though, if you run an isolator, for it to be effective you the truck has to be wired properly. This typically involves complete rewiring so that one battery handles all the accessories while the other batter handles jus tthe starter and the ignition. This way if lights or some other accessorry is left on an ddrain one battery you can still start the truck fine.
FWIW I currently have the isolator pulled from my truck and am just running parallel wired dual optimas. I nee d a higher amp isolator and then I will reinstall it. Go to www.12voltguy.com for some cool dual battery options. His will allow you to use backup battery power to stsrt your truck.
but ivan you are actually pulling the load from the battery not through the isolator itself. the rep from powermaster i spoke to said you need to size the isolator to the alternator output. the above one i mentioned is only good for a 70 max alternator which would be fine if you are running the stock small case alternator. there is bigger ones to handle the big 100,140 and 200 amp alternators those run 130-160.00 from summit racing. or another option if you have access to a heavy duty truck junkyard is to grab the isolator from a 83-91 mack or a 89-97 freightliner they will have a heavy duty isolator which also will allow you to start the truck from the reserve battery should the main go dead. they are good for 12-50 volts .they run new about 600.00. a good one will go for 100-200.00.
Yeah, PAC also sells the continuous duty relays which you can hook up between batteries and operate either by switch or just wire it to the ignition so you can use the backup battery to start. It's a good backup system.
For $10 you can get a little wussy isolator that won't handle the amps that most offroad vehicles need. The higher amp isolators (150-200 amp) will run you about $100 and up. Isolators are ths shizzle but you need one that can handle the amppload if you have a lot of accessories.
Exactly. So I just went ahead and dropped a hundred bones on the full painless kit, which is pretty pimp with all the bells and whistles. I think they're isolator is good for 200 amp. Plus, its designed for offroad use and all the switches and wiring connections are waterproof. Anyways, you can rig up one on your own for cheap but I thought I'd mention this as another alternative.
For you guys running dual battery setups, what kinda voltage do you get with that setup? I know my semi floats around 14 volts all day long, but that has 4 batteries.
Summit Racing...they usually have good prices and their shipping is fast. Ebay is good for stuff but sometimes the vendors are a crap shoot. I actually recently pulled mine when I was streamlining my electronics. I haven't decided if I'm going to reinstall it or sell it yet, but eitherway I can heartily recomend the painless setup.
I actually recently pulled mine when I was streamlining my electronics. I haven't decided if I'm going to reinstall it or sell it yet, but eitherway I can heartily recomend the painless setup.
streamlining the electronics? whats that, a total of 3 wires? back on subject, ill probly go the cheap way, and use a motor starter, and rig it up that way.
He took one look under my dash and it brought him to tears. To avoid a spaghetti wiring adventure like I had he cut out a bunch of old stock wiring he didn't need. There was an evil 12 volt gremlin causing shorts in his system so he got rid of EVERYTHING he could. Now it's my civic duty to lure him into adding more electronics, but just a little at a time. Heated seats are next!
He took one look under my dash and it brought him to tears.
Noooo kidding. I've never seen so many switches, gadgets and gizmos. Its all cool as hell and everything has an important purpose, but damn, I get heart palipations just thinking about tracking down electrical gremlins in that setup. I mean, getting into your cab is like getting into the cockpit of the Millienium Falcon. I think I'd need a full time Wookie to keep it all working properly
Ivan's not joking about me going on a wiring rampage; I stripped everything out that was non-essential including the lighter and radio. Pulled the dash out and cleaned up the whole harness. You look under the dash and its hard to see any wiring now. Which, keeps it simple for my pea-brain.
Yea, Ivan enjoys returing the favor of being a bad influence. I keep calling him a sissy for putting in heated seats but riding with him at the last mudbog I kept thinking....."hmmmm, these heated seats are friggin sweet!" Let the wussification begin
Last edited by proeliator; Jan 16, 2006 at 12:35 PM.
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