Sorry if this is real obvious but I looked at my rear tank for a drain plug and for the life of me couldn't find one. I looked all around the bottom edges, but couldn't find one. Am I missing something???
I was thinking I would punch a hole in it to let it drain, but wanted to check with you folks first-

truck is 73 F250. I am sure the tank is original. I posted a while back about finding a small gas leak, and the truck stalls since it started leaking- Maybe air is getting sucked into the lines and causing it to die? Something else- when the tank is almost empty, it idles fine, no stalling. But after I filled the tank, I have to keep it revving pretty fast at stop lights or else it will die- it also sputters some when going down the road. sound like the gas leak to you folks?

Thanks for any thoughts,
Eric

 

There is no drain plug in a gas tank. The stalling and running poorly is in my opinion purely coincedental with the leak.

 

Mr. Green, the only 'dumb' question is the one you dont ask! I have a leak too, I think it is the seal/ gasket around the sending unit, but I dont know for sure. The tank is original, and quite rusty looking. I want to swap with a new one, but am not sure whether to go with an aftermarket one, like an LMC Truck, or or Bronco graveyard; or with a steel or plastic; or with a fuel cell in the bed...I hope there is a person out there, (lets face it, there are plenty of us who have vintage Ford trucks who need this) who could provide the service of removing an old tank, and replacing it with a correct fitting, new tank of our choice, and even provide the correct reolacement sender, float and or mounting hardware and brackets...for a reasonable fee, of course!

 

Both tanks on my 76 F250 2 wheel drive have drain plugs, they are both on the front passenger side of the tanks. I am pretty sure they are factory.

 

Thanks for the quick replies-
Ranger429- If there is no drain on the tank, how do you empty it out before dropping it from the frame? Or do you lower it from the truck full? ( I saw replacement tanks on LMC that showed a drain plug on the back corner, and thought mine would be similar, which is why I am so confused) You might be right about the truck running bad as a coincidence- but it did start to do this at the tail end of a long haul (1000+ miles) pulling a loaded trailer. Any ideas what else is wrong? Also, I see you are in northern IL- any mechanics you know of who you could recommend?

C Lee Colbert- Thanks. I think I will order most of the parts for my truck from LMC or Bronco graveyard. I don't have lots of free time, and I'm not the best with tools, but I do like fixing things myself. If it turns out to be too much for me I hope to get the truck and the new parts to somebody who doesn't mind installing them. For a fee of course!

 

Could there be something in the tank - dirt, other debris that's interfering with the fuel pickup? As to draining the tank - knock a hole in it with an awl and a big hammer. If you need to reuse it, either solder it or - my favorite - coat a sheet metal screw with rtv and screw it in the hole.

 

My tank doesn't have a drain plug in my 78 f250. It is plastic.

 

Dropping the tank on the 70' trucks is not real bad . On the difficulty scale with 10 being the worst , it is about a 4. I dropped my main and aux tanks just so I could paint the frame. I did not want to drop a tank with gas in it , on my chest....


I went to Advance auto and bought one of those generic electric fuel pumps and a piece of rubber hose for fuel lines. It doesnt take much of a spark to ignite fuel vapors, so I made the power wires for the electric pump long to the battery, so I would not have the pump close to the fuel tank. Then I put a toggle switch on it, took my 6ft. piece of fuel line rubber hose and made me a discharge hose from the pump, put it in to a plastic fuel can, put the suction side hose from the pump down in to the tank, and pumped them dry. Total cost about 25 bucks. ...

The hardest part was getting the vent and filler hoses off that had been untouched for 26 years. along with the need to presoak rusty tank holding strap bolts with wd40, and be sure to put the anti- abrasion foam strips back in between the tank straps and the tank. Be mindful that the tank is not rubbing agaisnt the frame unprotected too. Just keep twisting the filler/vent hoses back and forth , with the help of a short bladed flat screwdriver , while pulling downward..

A garage will hit you up for about a 100 bucks or so, just to drop it. Then you are left in the position that , they will get to put the new one back on. Most auto shops do not let the customer furnish their own products, (especially those parts that can go BOOOM ) it creates liability and warranty issues for them and cuts the profit loses for the shops. Understandbly so. good luck . jmo



Disclaimer :
Working with auto fuel systems can be dangerous if not done with caution and done properly. If you are not confident with your mechanical skills, pay the price and let a shop do it.

 

Mr. Green like Greg states you can siphon (I happen to use a hand siphon pump with a piece of clear hose) the gas out to a manageable point where it is not heavy to drop the tank. You can also use a 2x4 across the tank with a floor jack to slowly lower the tank to the ground once the straps are unbolted and hoses and wiring are removed. Removing a gas tank is not very hard with the exception of the rust. If the nuts come free from the bolts it really should not take that long to R+R a tank.

Living up here in the rust belt it is a common problem and that is where you will find the most difficult part.

As far as a drain plug, I have yet to see a factory drain plug in a gas tank. Aftermarket tanks might have them.

Unfortunately I cannot recommend someone for you as I do most if not all of my own work.

 

Well, if it cost me around $200 for the labor, and whatever the new tank, and other parts would cost, I would be willing to spend that, (and no, I am not financially well off!) due to the fact that I have never done this type of work, and dont have a suitable place to do it; and a mechanic with a lift and other tools would be more competant at this type of job. I feel my 1977 F150 (known by my kids and I as 'Bessie"!) is well worth it. Plus she (Bessie) has alot more work to do around here still, and she really needs a gas tank makeover...hey, how about body-collision shops? Would they be well suited to do this?

 

Yes they would, a body shop would be a good place to try.

 

ranger429, Thanks, I agree! Many to choose from by me, so I will get a referal from someone I trust!

 

Thanks everybody!

 

I just got the upper and lower mount brackets from ebay, and found a place that will remove and install a new tank for me...so now I gotta choose a tank...poly or steel...new sending unit or not...and most of all, should I have a new filler tube put in?..I put together a spread sheet of the sources for replacement tanks, (not all of them just about 4 ) so email me if ya want and I will send it to ya.

 

i was wondering if anyone has pictures of there rear mount gas tank. my truck did have a in-cab tank but i got a new cab and i want to get a rear tank but don't think i have the crossmembers that I need in. Other thing i can do is make a new gas tank up at vo-tech to put right in front of the bed. thinkin about 5 or 6 inches thick and about 4 foot wide and 2 feet tall. Has anybody done this?